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I pulled off the teak "rails" that run the length of the boat at the water line. THey were held on with some bolts and screws. They were leaking while underway and just looked terrible.
I counter sunk all holes to expose more good glass. My question:
Should I use some fiberglass and resin to fill the holes or would Formula 27 alone followed by gelcoat work?
My thoughts are that it needs glass, sanding and then some Formula 27 to ensure a good bond.
I just don't want to do more work or steps than needed.

Kevin,

Formula 27 will be fine alone in a countersunk screw hole. Counter sink deep enough to leave a slight vertical wall at the top. After pluging the hole with F27 clean around the edge of the counter sink to maintain the vertical wall. this will allow for a slight recess for the gelcoat. Over fill the gelcoat depression and let it cure fully to allow for shrinkage. Sand it flush and polish it...

Pat,
OK so some of these holes are bigger than I thought. A couple are about the size of my little finger nail! Some are just like the picture diagram you uplaoded being like a countersunk screw.
Are the big ones OK with only Formula 27 as well?

I just found this old picture of what it used to look like with the rails on it.

Why are the images so small? I must be doing something wrong.

Why are the images so small? I must be doing something wrong.

You're probably pulling your source code from the thumbnail image. Click your photobucket up to a full view and copy the source code for that...

I was using thumbnail image. Learn something new every day. Here is another photo from 2005 when I bought it.



This should be easier to view.

Are the big ones OK with only Formula 27 as well?

They are pushing the limit... If you have access to the back side of the hole, you could put a good glass patch there. If not, you'd be better off grinding down and glass patching the large holes.

Kevin wrote:I just don't want to do more work or steps than needed.

Kevin

Just a word of caution here......every time I say to my self.....this should work......why go overboard with this! ! ! It always comes back to haunt me.......go to the extreme and you will not be disappointed and will not have to "REDO" it....


Like our beloved friend UV always said....the enemy of good is better.....and he is right but you never have to apologize or redo "Better"......and usually better don't cost that much more.....in terms of time or money.

And that is my advise to you....

hb

Harry,

I find myself doing the same thing, sometimes having to go back it do it all over again.
After seeing how big some of the holes were and Pat saying it was close to the limit I started getting out the resin and glass. Then I just went ahead and put two patches on each one after the Formula 27 was cured and sanded. One of the patches ended up with air in it so I just re-countersunk it and filled it again. Overall I am happy and confident that I did it right.
Today I did the port side and was more meticulus cutting off the pieces. The holes were much smaller and did not require glass.
It must have been 30 lbs of teak I pulled off.
When on plane if you looked over the side of the boat water was rushing up the hull from in between hull and teak rails. It was a mess.
thanks for the help as always.

The end result what what I hoped for. (removing about 16 feet of rail that is)
The aft bilgepump always cycled when jumping up on a plane. Now it doesn't!

I ran every direction today at cruise and can positively say 1/4 to 1/2 knot gain. Yeah, I am splitting hairs but they add up in the end.

WOT was 1/2 to 3/4 knot gain.

The biggest improvement was turning at cruise or faster. Much tighter, more lean or with less loss of speed.

Can't wait to get to the yard and cryo blast bottom. I am betting on close to 25 knot cruise with these little 212 horsepower engines when I am done. I may have to tap into Bob Lico stuff though.

1/4- 1/2 knot and looks better is quite an improvement in my eyes.

Kevin after all those Pm's you know I will do anything I can to help you--------- bob