bertram31.com

Well, I changed out the ignition wires on the stbd engine. Did the rotor and cap too. Electronic ignition.
Can't get the RPM's over 2k.
The question is.... what rotation is the std engine?
I have to ck & see if the wires from the distributor cap and the plugs are correct. Right?

Standard rotation (LH):1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Reverse rotation (RH):1-2-7-5-6-3-4-8

I just pulled this off another site. Assuming you are cheverolet 350.

Is she running rough?
2K at the slip or underway?

Definitely check the firing order, and to see if wires are firmly seated...
If all is good, give the timing a check. Could have pushed the distributor out when Changing Cap.

Kevin, you got the firing order but is the engine left or right hand rotation? The engine
is a 427 cid rated at 325 HP. The 454 are 350 HP

Sim, with the boat under way. The engine isn't rough but just isn't right.

From the stern...

Right hand engine turns to the Right and uses a RH Wheel or one can say Starboard turns Clockwise when looking from stern.

Left hand engine turns to the Left and uses a LH wheel or one can say Port turns Counter clockwise when looking from stern.

Both wheels turn outboard...Right hand to the Right and Left Hand to the Left, looking from stern.



If looking for distributor direction....I have no clue...but Pop the opposite side Cap off, bump motor and take a peek...or get someone to look if you have bridge. Or jump solenoid and take a peek or open cover plate for flywheel and pry flywheel in correct direction while looking at distributor. Direction is opposite direction for the other motor.




As you can see...I have gotten quite confused myself thru the years and learned a bunch of tricks to find out instead of relying on my memory or asking guys at marina...some of whom will answer without a clue.



Not sure if correct or not...but I have found when firing order is off..engine runs like crap...miss, knock and or backfire. Bad wires, plugs or connections can be somewhat smooth with a detectable miss. Bad timing...no power but smooth.

Wires...are they the ones you fab up yourself? You cut and put ends on.
Had a bunch that where a bit tricky...not seating correctly and not firing as they should.
Had a set where the Plug ends where crimped and didn't sit on plugs correctly.

Check cap...new isn't always better. Had bad caps out of the box...new Rotors missing the Brass shunt...lots of crap goes out the doors these days.
Correct plugs...are they gapped correctly?

Why did you change the wires was it running below 2-K before you did ?



Maybe put the old wire cap rotor back on one at a time and see what happens try to narrow it down ?

Also i think later motors were not reverse rotation, but changed rotation in the gearbox.

The wires were replaced because the mechanic that does my car said the boat needs new wires. Last yr.
This summer was very wet in August here and the engine wouldn't start. So I did the cap, rotor and wires.
The parts were from NAPA marine.... top shelf. Engine fired right up.
Thank ya'll all from the help. I'm going with the engine being RH. I think only 2 wires are wrong.

I have a whsle account with NAPA in Bay Shore, L.I. if any body wants to save on plugs, wires, dist caps etc.
All this stuff will costs a little more than half retail. Having two engines, it's like getting one for free.

Free is good.

And one more thing! The hard starting on the stbd engine not getting gas has been fixed. Our brother, UV, said
to install an outboard type fuel ball and pump some gas up. Works great, so much so that the port engine got
one too.

And here at home that's what's happening now.
Wife went to work. She does one day a week. Hell,somebody's gotta' work.

Sounds good.


Where did you put the Pump and Ball Setup? Not thrilled about installing a raw gas setup in a concealed spot, but...

I'm figuring I need to change fuel pumps as Motors are getting more and more difficult to start after sitting longer then a week or two. This sound familiar ? Give about tens seconds of cranking...get electronics and boat readied, go back and another 10 seconds of cranking...pull out poles, open windows or whatever then go back and crank till she'll starts...usually another 10 seconds or so will do it.

But once she ran, you can hit starter anytime within that week and she'll start in less then a rotation or two.

You can see the Floscan doesn't even show a flow till the end of second set of cranking.

She's obviously draining back fuel slowly over that extended period of time. Could be an air seepage somewhere or a worn fuel pump impeller letting the fuel run back. Simpler/safer solution would be a shut-off valve at your fuel filter. Shut off the valve when you're going home and your fuel can't drain back to the tank. Open them up when you return.

The general consenus here is that the gas leaks backwards and it takes some cranking. The gas ball sloved the situation.
I put both balls before the fuel pump and you can hear the gas going into the carbs. Open the hatch between the engines.
Easy access. Great!
I even installed a ckeck valve at the carb ..... that small filter in the carb. You can get the filter with a ck valve.
Didn't work.
I shouda' done this ten yrs ago. I almost put in electric fuel pumps.

This site has helped do a lot of things. Bleed and fill the steering, replace the steering pipes to the rudders, replace
the rudder boxes, change out the raw water pumps, replace the trans coolers, install a small holding tank, sand blast the bottom,
replace the manifolds-risers, sound proofed the engine boxes(for nothing) and a lot of laughs.

Walter K wrote:She's obviously draining back fuel slowly over that extended period of time. Could be an air seepage somewhere or a worn fuel pump impeller letting the fuel run back. Simpler/safer solution would be a shut-off valve at your fuel filter. Shut off the valve when you're going home and your fuel can't drain back to the tank. Open them up when you return.

hmm..like that idea better.

I've replaced fuel lines to pump, from pump to carb...tightened and re tightened everything along the way. I have new fuel pumps in the cabin...but have always heard how the simple job is...yet can be a disaster if something is not right...not sure what the issue is exactly, although Cam Lobe position comes to mind...so I continue to put it off. Engines runs right up to WOT so figure pumps not that bad... I have left well enough alone...enemy of good is better...or call it procrastination.

I should do something.

Carl get down to the boat once a week and start her up, it's good for the soul and my problem disappeared!

Your right Pete...I'd like to do that, but it just doesn't work out quite that way these days.

Dick-

If you don't know rotation of a motor, get a remote starter or have someone crank it for you and look at which way it rotates. I used to take the old cap off with wires attached, put on the new cap, and change the wires one-by-one to make sure I got it right. If she's still not revving up, make sure you're getting full advance.

Carl-

My B31 also lost fuel if it sat more than a week. My drill was to open boxes, squirt a short blast (very short, lie 1 second) starting fluid into the spark arrestor, crank, and she'd fire right away. Worked great for years and years. KISS.

John

John-
I keep a can of starting fluid on board...but rather not go that route if at all possible.
Too combustible...even though your right it works like a charm.

I have just made the cranking part of my routine after a long session of sitting.
In my mind I tell myself its good to get the oil pressure up and lube top end before starting anyway. It used to start on second round of cranks...now we are onto the third...so guess it is time to do something...or just use boat more....which is another reason I leave as is...I always figure I'll get back to fishing after work.


Yeah...I replace one wire at a time. I can figure out the firing order...but why. KISS