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My deck supports are somewhat makeshift (that way when I got it) and I'm ready to do a re-do.
I bought Mr Lico's old deck, so that should be a goodie once in place.
But, I wanna/need to address the supports before I put it down.
Cabrera makes a support kit that goes with their decks, but if possible, I would just as soon address witha carpenter buddy of mine.
How big of a deal is it to do the supports ? I plan on using Coosa.
Boat is a Bahia, so engine boxes forward needs a seperate means to address anyway.
Suggestions/recomendations ??
Thanks

Steve,
I wouldn't use Coosa board for upright supports and sub stringers. I don't think that there is enough vertical strength in Coosa board. I would bite the bullet and get the fiberglass I beam channels from Mc Master Carr.
Or you can do what I did and use white oak 1"x 8"x10', soaked in thinned epoxy(6 coats). The original supports were Phillipene mahogney thru bolted to the inboard stringers, uprights were thru bolted to the fore and aft boards with a ledger for the decks to sit into. Inside joists were slightly higher than outer ones to allow for water run off (cambered deck). I used 1/4"x20 2-1/2" stainless steel bolts nuts and washers(original were silcon bronze material).
I re-did mine over a year ago and before that it was done almost 28 years ago. The first place they seem to go away is just before the deck/inner transom curved board joint at deck level, near where the steering cross bar cut out is located, I've found that this area is prone to rot (on other 31 surveys) due to trapped water when the vessel sits for a long time. Costs are around $400 for wood, stainless bolts and another $200 for the epoxy. You should also do the rudder shelves while the deck is up and check the forward and aft bulkheads at fuel tank ends. Good luck
Pete Fallon

Steve

When we re-did ours 10 years ago, we used the mahogany again. I would go with the sturctural fiberglass from McMaster to lighten the back end up if I did it again. Since the repower, and beefing up the strut pads, she could loose a little weight in the back end. IN fact while you have the deck out, I would pretty much redo everything you can back there.

My bulkhead behind the engines were shot, so I replaced that with 3/4 Coosa.

Good Luck

I did mine with fiberglass U Channel (McMaster 1x 3) ...cheap, easy and won't rot...hate wood. But the old ones lasted almost 30 years...some where actually in near perfect condition.

When down at the boat, please take and post some pictures.
Sounds like a combination of structural fiberglass and COOSA is the way to go.

Not much to take a picture of...the old uprights are attached to stingers with bolts and a strip of wood was bolted to the top which deck sat on.

I unbolted the wood uprights one at a time, using each as a template.
Clamped wood to fiberglass, cut and drilled then bolted the fiberglass upright in place and onto the next.

Uprights where bolted to a strip of mahogany 1-1/2 x 1-1/2, I was going to use fiberglass box tube to mimic that. But now recall Mcmaster was out of stock and I used mahogony again...had a couple pieces collecting dust on my shelf. Deck sits right on top overlapping the center strips.

I'll see if I can get a couple pictures

Steve,
I used 3/4 Coosa with two layers of 1708 on each side, then I used McNichols fiberglass I beams fore n aft to support the deck. Around the perimeter I used 3/4 coosa again same layup with 1708, this time I made a shelf and supports with intergrated 1" PVC wire chases'. Where the fighting chair is located I added a 4' piece of 3/4 coosa then used plexus to bond to the I beam then tabbed it to the stinger. BH

Bob,

That looks like what I need to do to support my Glas tech deck. Are the "ledgers" that are on the hull sides and stern in the photo Coosa? And how far apart did you space the vertical "brackets" that support those? What material are the Ibeams on either side of the tank running for and aft? What is plexus? Just got my boat and just joined this site, hope you guys don't tire of my questions, many more to follow, I'm sure. Thanks

Bob ... thanks
Picture is worth a thousand words.
looks GREAT !!
(felt like Tony the Tiger after typng that)

Bob's doing an awesome job and no expense has been spared. Finally got to see it first hand a couple of weeks ago. Outstanding!

Because I've only worked on these boats as a contractor I've had to balance form, function, and cost to gain a solution that is the best within a given budget.

Here's the deck supports, (I often refer to them as deck joists), that I did on both Hancock's and Bailey's boats. The I-beams are made of 1/2" plywood, with the vertical member dadoed into the horizontal members. Epoxy and screw construction and edges are rounded over. Then they are epoxy glassed to totally seal them out and add strength. The finished joist is 4" high and 2" wide.

The stanchions are built with 1" structural fiberglass tubing. The top of the stanchion is screwed to the bottom of the joist and the bottom of the stanchion is fitted with a saddle that is screwed to the stringers. Finally the top of the joist is capped with structural fiberglass channel, both for wear and further water proofing of the joist.

And they're removable without difficulty...

Br,

Patrick

Steve, Im with you on the pictures...a thousand words...I watched how others built the deck shelfs and added my own twist...BBTiller, Plexus is a structural adhesive long open time good gap filling qualities, 2000-3500 psi stength, chemically bonds two pieces together. Been told the fiberglass will tear before the plexus bond will. I think my vertical spacing was no more than 24" on sides and 16" on transom, here is another pic with wire chace and exhaust support all in one...Think ahead when planning...BH

I ripped coosa in 3/4 " coosa in 6" wide stringers, epoxied 2together to create each stringer or joist, I then epoxied a piece of 3/4 " coosa on the top to creat a tee assembly as I wanted to be able to attach a bench fabricated teak deck system by screwing it from the underside thru this tee section, I made the uprights or columns the same out of 2pieces of 3/4 x6" coosa glued together , sanded and painted all parts with sherwin Williams self leveling paint, cut the pieces to fit, Held together with vice clamps, , drilled and thru bolted with 1/4 " carriage bolts, my crew never boards gently , they jump to creat the most impact they can and still can't break it, the coosa is so strong because of the layer of cloth impregnated and all the fibers the have mixed in, I wanted no wood ever in this damp environment In addition to less wt, I new I would be adding wt soon with the teak deck

I sistered the old ones with 5/4 mahogany and screwed the deck down. Took two hours (if that) and should last 30 years.

Guys ...thank you
One of the greatest things about this website is the wealth and free-flow of knowledge that s always available.
To top it off, I've met all of the responders at one time or another, with one exception ... and funny enough he lives the closest to me.
Mike ... you and I are long overdue......Sag Harbor to you aint far, lets do it.
Thanks again guys !! .... all the best.

Sounds great. I'm overdue for a visit out east. I'm a little tied up for the next weekend or two, but perhaps right after labor day weekend.

Man nice work great information, saving a lot of pictures here.

I removed a fiberglass deck from my boat that has some damage but could be repaired and all the hatches are in decent condition.

I'll take and post some pictures to see if anyone can use it i hate to just toss it out.

If i did not need a heavier deck i would consider posibly repairing the ones i removed.


OK here's a picture i found that shows the decks a little anyone know what kind they are ?

Bob I love that duel wire way real smart solution to electrical wiring going to stern.you also impress me with those supports adjacent to fuel tank not for the strength but because they coincide with stringer to make a compartment using every square inch possible that is exactly what I did ,resulting in a 3" wider hatch compartment then stock.
Tony don't worry about the mahogany weight over coosa that is thebest weight you can have in the boat-------trust me!!!!! I remove my modified glasstec deck and made new from coosa I put in boat but did not fasten. I am lucky I have facilities so I put boat in work slip then took ONE sling and put on balance point and lift very slowly till boat tilted toward bow-------sure enough I screwed up balance with lighter cockpit!( my balance point is two feet further toward stern from stock Bertram.) so I use mahogany 5/4 "by 8' for floor joint with 4coats of epoxy and awlgrip .the two supports adjacent to fuel tank are mahogany from 11 years ago look like I put them in yesterday. Using same prep.captain Patrick and some of other brothers tour a whaling ship that had interior wood in the hole from 1840 look perfect today without epoxy!!!!! Moral of story don 't bad mouth mahogany for floor supports they are not in water ever and have fresh air movement at all times ------------no problem!!!!l

After reading my post I realize I assume the discussion on mahogany is from a real lumber yard whereby the entire tree is cut rough at 5/4 with painted end grain .the Mahoney / teak is stack up starting with 6" increasing in 1" increments to 18" or so then back down to 6" there are no knots and grain is perfect select cut from the forest not force grown in a tree farm! This is furniture grade kept indoor with spacers between every board. It takes epoxy evenly and will stay on a Bertram till I am dust? You cannot go to a box store they only have crap not worthy of ever going into a Bertram!

Pm sent Keith

Bob

When we re-did the deck in 96, there were no box stores around back then so the mahogony I used came from a good source. Good grain. They were coated, but when I repowered I sanded and redid them just to make sure.

Hey Bob Lico,

You had posted a while back in the Spring your progress of cockpit sole and hatches done with Coosa, I bookmarked, but now with the updated website, i can't seem to navigate back, can you repost or PM those images when its convenient?

Thanks,

Bradley

On the old board, Bradley...

http://bertram31.com/newbb2/viewtopic.php?p=83902&sid ...




.

I used Cabrera's supports, very easy. Once the old stuff is out lay the new ones in, they install as a jigsaw puzzle, interlocking with each other. Once in place, level, check for fit with new decks (i used his decks) and when satisfied, tab in place. Screw decks to supports. If you need to remove the decks later, unscrew. No more wood to rot!

Word of caution.... Cabrera's deck supports are only configured for the Cabrera deck. If trying to use his supports for a Glastech style deck they won't work.

Hell, Patrick, it's just fiberglass! Just like your computer, a little cut and paste and you're home free.
Sorta

thanks Patrick,
the Cabrera was a consideration, but i have a Glasstech cockpit.