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Novice paint question

Posted: Feb 9th, '12, 16:24
by John F.
I had really good luck rolling and tipping some stuff on my B31 using single -part paints. I almost always used Interlux Toplac. I'm getting to the point where I'm going to have to do some paint work on my B20. I'll probably paint the deck, and once I finish the foredeck work, that'll have to be painted too. I realize just painting the foredeck rather than all of the topsides will look marginal at best, but there are time and money considerations here.

The B20 was painted before, and I'm almost positive it was a 2 part paint. I also plan on having her professionally repainted in a few years when my kids get out of school.

For now though, I'll be doing the paint work myself, and rolling and tipping. Question is this-- do I use a single part paint again (Toplac has been discontinued, but there are others), or should I use a 2-part like Interlux Perfection or Awlgrip? How hard are 2-parts to use if you're a novice (like me)? Thanks.

Posted: Feb 9th, '12, 16:49
by CaptPatrick
John,

You can't apply a 2 part paint directly over a 1 part paint, it has to be primed with epoxy primer. I'd stick with the 1 part paint for now, prime any raw material, and observe good prep practices through out.

When it comes time to professionally paint, the whole boat will need rough up sanding and then primed with 545 or other epoxy primer, then painted with 2 part paint, if that's the ultimate finish you want. The old 1 part paint becomes the primer for the epoxy primer...

Br,

Patrick

Posted: Feb 9th, '12, 17:41
by Gert van Leest
John,

not a lot to say after the ole Capster , but go for alw grip !!

It is pretty easy to get a nice even finish with it aslong it is not to warm and humid, if this is the problem use more reducer ,10-15% at normal conditions and 20-25% when it is warm.

good luck !

Gert

Posted: Feb 9th, '12, 20:43
by JP Dalik
John,

If you can pull it off a brushed or rolled and tipped awl grip finish is tough to beat.
I think they last longer and have a better gloss than all but the best spray jobs.
Might have to do with using half of the catalyst when compared to spray Im not sure but all my brush jobs have seemed to keep their luster longer.

Posted: Feb 10th, '12, 09:44
by John F.
Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it.

Posted: Feb 11th, '12, 10:53
by IRGuy
John...

Before I decided to repaint my B33 FBC I called two marine paint mfgrs to ask about painting their two part paints over the unknown single part paint the previous owner applied with a roller (no tipping. just the roller). Both told me to buy a small can of their recommended solvent, saturate a cloth with it, lay it on a deck or somewhere else flat, cover it with Saran Wrap or some other sheet material, tape the edges so the wet cloth is sealed against the surface, and remove it after 24 hours. If the paint under the cloth has not softened, blistered or otherwise been degraded it is OK to paint over what is there.

I decided to skip this test and bite the bullet and remove the old paint.. a huge job (at least for me working alone) on a 33' FBC! (luckily just everything above the rub rail).. the deck, cockpit, cabin sides, and flybridge.. the hull below the rub rail had been painted 12-15 years ago with AwlGrip. The old single part paint seemed to be pretty well adhered, but like most here I don't like to do things half way with my boat. I described what I did in an earlier post for Tommy..

( http://bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopic.php?t=8006 ).

Removing all that paint is not for the faint of heart! Attacking my pride and joy with an 8" slow speed disc sander with 80 grit discs is not something I took casually! Now that I am done sanding and grinding I am happy I did it! And happier still that the job is finished!

Good luck!