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Up here in Mattituck visiting my Dad. He's sanded down his louvered teak cuddy doors, and want to refinish them. I'm thinking teak oil would be best. Any recommendations for teak oil or would some other finish be better? It took him a loooong time to sand the louvered doors. They had Starbrite teak oil on them, but that stuff doesn't seem like oil.

Walter put me on the Tip Top Teak products and their teak oil is the best I;'ve ever used. I buy it from Hamilton Marine in Miane a lot cheaper than I can get it from the factory in Mississippi...go figure.

UV

God, have the price of teak oil and cleaners have gone up incredibly!

After using DeksOlje for many years I din't know what to do
when I discovered it was no longer available.
After much research I thought I would try Sikkens Cetol
natural teak on my custom swim platform. lots of work
sanding to a clean surface, then 3 coats drying 24 hrs between.
Really looked sharp, When I pulled the boat at end of
season looked the same as the beginning!
Next year just a light sanding then one coat and
good to go. I don't think its classed as a oil thou.
But im very pleased.

I've been using Penofin on my Teak. It was recommended to me for my Ipe decks and since I always have some left over I figured I'd give it a try on Teak. Works pretty good.

I used that Cetol stuff once and it peeled after a short time....maybe I didn't prep right but I didn't like the color either.

Hamilton has the Tip Top oil for $47.99 a gallon, cheapest I saw online.

You can use boiled linseed oil instead of teak oil but it tends to mildew pretty quickly here in the South. I've not tried tung oil....has anyone?

UV

Not an oil but for a very long lasting finish use Bristol Finish instead:

http://www.bristolfinish.com/exterior.html

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UV: Tung oil on teak is much the same as any teak oil results wise.....and in my experience mildew seems to appear in heavy oiling of older very open grained teak quicker than light oiling of newer teak.......at least in our climate here....

This is one area where I kinda know what I'm talking about.

My favorite is Tip Top Teak. Secret is to clean it weekly, and give a coat once in a while before it all goes to hell. Once it turns, you will need to strip and re-start.

It was unavailable for a while, and I went to the Interlux oil, and it is pretty darned good. But it just doesn't smell the same. And that is part of the smell of summer to me.

I am not a fan of Cetol. It is more of a paint/stain, and a real bitch to remove. I used it once, that was enough.

If it is in a reasonably protected spot, there is a place for varnish. It will last a really long time. And the re-do is worth the longevity.

Try to stay away from the 2 part acid cleaners as they really kill the grain. I am a much bigger fan of the powdered cleaners. You will need to use these products if you use oil. If not there is a definite place for the vinegar/water mix or whatever it is that Captain Patrick uses that works so nice for non- oiled teak.

After you are done cleaning, you will need to use BRONZE wool. Not steel, and once in a very long while you will sand to remove the raised grain. I try to avoid it at all costs, because you remove wood. Actually I didn't clean my deck this year at all. It worked out ok, but will use a good cleaning come spring.

So in short, I love Tip Top Teak. Interlux is a close second to me. Most of the others, well, are experiments to me...

I can show you pics of my results if you like. When I'm done, my deck beads water and looks spectacular. It is slippery for a few days, but that passes quickly and it is well protected. I love the look of dry, non-oiled teak, but i beat it up too badly to leave it like that...

Dug

When you apply the Tip Top oil - use a rag not a brush - you will get some on the adjacent fiberglass and it will mildew pretty fast and leave a stain, which is easily removed with some lacquer thinner on a rag. Most of my teak can be fairly easily removed from the boat as its attached with screws and finishing washers. Every few years it comes off for a light sanding and deep cleaning at the picnic table in the shade.....oh yeah, put an old shower curtain or tarp over the picnic table before you bleach out the teak....don't even ask how I know.

Never pressure wash teak. Once again, don't ask me how I know.

UV

To add to what Vic says, Don't ever leave teak oil drips on the fiberglass. it will stain it.

You can use a brush, but carry a rag and be careful of splatter. For the very reason just mentioned.

And he is completely right. NEVER, EVER PRESSURE WASH TEAK.

Thanks. We're going to try Tip Top

Chanse wrote:After using DeksOlje for many years I din't know what to do
when I discovered it was no longer available.
After much research I thought I would try Sikkens Cetol
natural teak on my custom swim platform. lots of work
sanding to a clean surface, then 3 coats drying 24 hrs between.
Really looked sharp, When I pulled the boat at end of
season looked the same as the beginning!
Next year just a light sanding then one coat and
good to go. I don't think its classed as a oil thou.
But im very pleased.

Jamestown still sells it:

http://sbmar.com/main/repowers/shooter_ ... m_odyssey/

My formula was two coats of #2 (gloss) then lightly sand and degloss with a coat of #1.