bertram31.com

How frequently whould the shaft log drip? These are not the dripless style

I have heard no drip until the shaft is turning then 3-5 drips per minute.

Is that about right?

No turning, I'd look for a drip or so a minute.

Turning should be more.


How much??? depends on condition of shaft, packing, alignment, how fast shes turning etc. At cruise I'd expect to see pretty constant droplets, but a good deal less then a stream...just make sure the gland does not get hot when underway if you opt for a lighter rate of flow.

It depends on the packing material as well, flax, teflon or gortex.
I would think the best indicator would be how warm the stuffing box gets while underway. Once the boat gets on plane and the rpms are in the higher range I doubt the packing would be seeing much cooling water at all. At that point the looseness of the packing is more important as to not generate friction(heat).

Steve,
A few drips a minute is normal at rest, a turning shaft should throw a mist at the packing nut. If it really slinging water it's time to replace the packing. Install a piece of inner tube from an old tire about 6" long use a couple of strong zip ties or a stainless steel clamp over the shaft log hose area, to keep the spray from making a mess near the shaft log. Only use flax packing when replacing the packing about 3 wraps should do it. Cut them at an angle when installing the overlaps. 3/8" packing material for 1-3/8" shafts. Check you motor mounts for collapsed rubber pads also. Did this just start after you made the crossing last weekend?.
Pete

Pete,
The nuts on the packing glands backed off a little and I told him to double nut the glands to keep that from happening.

Murrels repacked all the shafts while he was out and this was the first real run on them. The packing is also setting in.

Pete, yes just after the crossing, the first real hard run on the new packing. The set of nuts that came loose are the ones closest to the shaft that run parallel with the shaft; not the ones that wrap around the shaft holding the rubber sleeve. There are a pair on each shaft with a bracket. When these were loose the water was spraying out. I put a double nut on each, now I just need to fine tune it for the proper drip.

I bent a prop in about 12' of water just outside of Walkers. Must have been some debris. Limped into Walkers and coasted to Grand on one engine where we pulled the prop and swapped it out for a spare. Anyone on this board have the perfect prop puller? The one I have is a three arm claw design with a center bolt. The long center bolt is too long and rides against the rudder making it difficult to turn the bolt except a half turn at a time. I could take the device to a machine shop and shorten the bolt. However, if anyone here has repowered and has a perfect prop puller for old original 17x20 bronze props, I would like a better set up. Doing all of this with a snorkel was time consuming.

http://www.boatersworld.com/product/MP8 ... 7QodXDXL4w

Go to this link to see the one I used this week. Liked it a lot.

I just borrowed this style puller from a buddy and took my props off monday.

Zero clearance issues with the rudders. I give it a two thumbs up. I did while boat was on the lift and not diving it. I free dive and pulling props underwater without a tank is still a challenge for me, but this is the one I would use.

Kevin,

That's the best one I've ever used.

Dick

I'm kind of partial to these pullers, I sell'em and use'em.

The big 4 blade puller is a bit tricky underwater, but quite doable even without a tank.

Changed the shaft underwater...now that was a bit tricky. Seen it done by a customer and thought it was the coolest thing...so gave it a whirl. Wouldn't attempt without a tank though.

Some say twin screw is not redundant...ever limp home on no motor...don't work. Glad you had a spare!
Carl

http://www.waltergear.com/propp.htm

A 3 lb hand sledge is also a handy assy to them

Like I said before, if at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer...

Kevin and Dick

Are you guys able to change props without dropping your rudders on your 28Bs? I sure can't on mine.

Cliff

Cliff,

I've got enough room to change the props, but the rudder has to be removed to remove the shaft and I've only had to do that once after I hit a sand bar and tweeked the rop and shaft.

sim wrote:I'm kind of partial to these pullers, I sell'em and use'em.

The big 4 blade puller is a bit tricky underwater, but quite doable even without a tank.

Changed the shaft underwater...now that was a bit tricky. Seen it done by a customer and thought it was the coolest thing...so gave it a whirl. Wouldn't attempt without a tank though.

Some say twin screw is not redundant...ever limp home on no motor...don't work. Glad you had a spare!
Carl

http://www.waltergear.com/propp.htm

I second SIM's recommendation. You can remove a pretty stubborn prop with it. Just keep cranking on the nuts until it gives. Puts equal pressure on the hub.

Steve,
I 've always used the same type of puller that Kevin & Dick have. I am not a fan of the flange and bolt style of packing that Bertram used on some model years, too many nuts, rods get bent and corrode if you don't keep them lubed up. I found the single big bronze nut connected to the single large flange then to the rubber boot hose is the easiest to control. If money was no problem I would change to water cooled dripless with 2nd spare bearing on the shaft.

Other than bending a blade on one prop, how did the boat perform, any where near the rate of fuel that I thought it would burn.

Bruce, want to get together and play some golf next week. I have to go under the knife again on July 7 something seriously wrong with the knee joint, I be out of commission for a couple of months after the operation.

Pete

No need to remove them. Another good thing about it compared to others that I have used is there are no nuts or bolts to drop. If you are diving that is priceless. The crank levers are like the kind on a bench vice. Easy to use.

Pete, the boat ran wonderful across the Gulf Stream, as though it were built especially for that ;) We had steady 4'+ seas wind blowing out of the north slapping waves against our port side, and as you know the Gulf Stream flow up against that causing the chop. I would have preferred a head sea or a following sea. The port side cockpit area from the salon windows back was like a fire hose of salt water spray with an occassional one spraying us on the flybridge; however, I would say this is mostly due to the north waves and wind. We ran into a school of dolphin about 3-5 miles off Palm Beach so we spent some time there indoctrinating the boat with a bloody fish flopping frenzy, they were everywhere even bouncing into the salon/cabin door. We filled up at Rosies after a stop at Grand. With the fishing stop and detour to Walkers we must have run 110 miles I bet...I'll download the track from the GPS later. I filled up with 126 gallons. We ran everywhere from 8 knots to 22kts...however, most of the time we were cruising at 14kts in those seas. I'll put together a complete trip report with pics later. Thanks for asking...gotta run one of the kids to the Ferry and I'm running late.....bye.

Pete,
Developed some type of right shoulder thing around the first of the year and couldn't play golf when my brother did his 4 month stint.

My insurance changed and the new list of drs has been a chore to weed thru.
First two after X-rays didnt even call back with the results. Insurance co won't let me get an MRI until these idiots perform other tests.
That's been part of my boredom, no golf.

I feel like Tiger Woods without the hookers.

Pete, I had an excel spreadsheet I put together prior to the crossing. I just revisited that worksheet. 110 nautical miles is 126.5 miles..which is exactly the gallons I filled up with at Rosie's on Grand. So 1 Gallon Per mile is darn accurate.

Steve,
I'm glad you found how a 31 runs in the slop of the stream, mileage is just what I've experienced with carbed engines. I've found if you push the throttles up a little more the spray is more aft, congratulations on getting blood on the cockpit sole. The boat might of had a lot of fresh water blood but nothing like hemoraging mahi,it goes everywhere. If you need anything let me know, I'll be in Florida until the end of July.
Pete

Steve, Seacheles coming on the 27/28 jun first toRosies then on down your way. Gve me a jingle if you'll be in town the beers on me,Bill wmachovina@yahoo.com

Bill
If you get to Hope Town look us up. We are located on the South End of Elbow Cay adjacent to Tahiti Beach (Dorros Cove). The Duchess is docked in Seaspray Marina. I'll be back July 1-6.

cmccool wrote:Kevin and Dick

Are you guys able to change props without dropping your rudders on your 28Bs? I sure can't on mine.

Cliff

I was able to install my 1-1/4 shafts without removing the rudders. It was tight but the shafts were able to squeeze by....barely.

I also have no problem taking my 18X20 3 blade props on and off.