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PVC board

Posted: May 9th, '11, 14:16
by Capt.Frank
I know this has been covered some what before, But Capt. Patrick say polyester resin can be used. I have been told localy to use epoxy or pvc glue. I am fixing a small 12' boat for my son and last project is to attach new pvc boards to the seat tops to cover all the holes. My bother says screw it but would rather not. Its PVC to fiberglass.

Also Capt. Patrick on the walk supports between the engines can pvc board be used instead of coosa ? I was planing on glasses the board to the fiberglass box tubes.

Thanks
Frank

Posted: May 9th, '11, 15:10
by CaptPatrick
To bond PVC Foam Board to an existing fiberglass structure, using polyester resin, here's what you'll need to do:

Grind or sand away all of the old gelcoat from the fiberglass structure.

Sand the bonding side ot the PVC with 60 grit paper to get a good tooth worked into the surface.

Prime the fiberglass with activated resin and lay down a single layer of 1 1/2 oz chopped strand mat.

Do a very wet wipe down of the PVC with acetone. This will partially disolve and soften the surface. Immediately prime the PVC with activated resin and lay down a single layer of 1 1/2 oz chopped strand mat.

While everything is still wet, turn the PVC over and position it onto the fiberglass structure. Apply enough weight to the PVC part to bring it firmly down onto the fiberglass structure. Make sure that the weights are equally distributed and full contact is made throughout the two parts.

Sand bags, cement blocks, old batteries are just a few weights that can be used.

Clean up all squeeze out of excess resin while it's still wet...

Yes, epoxy is a better resin since it's a true adhesive. And screws are always a good backup to any lamination of dissimilar materials. Use woven fiberglass cloth rather than mat if going this direction. Same prep work as for the polyester route.

PVC glue would only be good to glue two pieces of PVC together. It won't stick PVC and fiberglass together...

For the seat tops on a 12' boat, you might also consider using 5200 and a notched trowel, forgetting fiberglass altogether...

Another consideration is to make two matching pieces of PVC Foam Board. Screw one piece to the fiberglass and then PVC glue the other piece to the first piece. All the advantage of mechanical fasteners, but no screws showing.

Posted: May 9th, '11, 16:07
by CaptPatrick
Also Capt. Patrick on the walk supports between the engines can pvc board be used instead of coosa ? I was planing on glasses the board to the fiberglass box tubes.
PVC Foam Board probably wouldn't be the best choice for deck material... You'd need to go to at least 1" for the structural stiffness of 3/4" Coosa, and the Coosa has a higher density than the Foam Board...

Posted: May 9th, '11, 16:48
by Capt.Frank
I didn't even think about 5200. Thanks that's what I'll use.

The walk way between the engines supports not the deck that is glasstek. I m talking about the supports like you did on Hancock's boat. I thought that the coosa was just for support the side pannels. The fiberglass box 2"X2" and 1"X1" glassed together was the support?

Posted: May 9th, '11, 16:59
by CaptPatrick
OK, I'm with you now... Too much deflection, even on edge, for PVC. 1/2" Coosa is best for those sides. Make 'em 4" wide. Don't use PVC for anything structural...

Posted: May 10th, '11, 03:14
by luis
When you say PVC foam board that is the same as : polyurethane foam, right ? Maybe is a silly question but you know that here, sometimes to find something needed to the boat is worst then find the prime minister.
( and I prefeer to find things for the boat then the PM).)
I have been doing "non structural" things using polyurethane foam glassing one side with polyester and mat doing the same on the face where I want to glue the foam and then pressing using screws and other gizmos to ensure that the bond goes well.
Tks

Posted: May 10th, '11, 08:48
by CaptPatrick
No, Luis, This material is expanded PVC and a cousin of Divinycell, (also PVC, but different manufacturing process). Polyurethane foam is primarily used for insulation and rarely as structural foam.

PVC Foam Board was principally used by the signing industry for everything from billboards to placards and display panels. It's use has now grown to include residential and commercial building applications, (Azak) and a lot of boat builders have included it into their material list as a replacement for plywood in certain applications.

Structural PVC foams come in several densities from 2 lb cu ft to 15 lb cu ft. 2 part Polyurethane is also available in densities up to 12 lb cu ft.

PVC Foam Board is an excellent choice for non structural items such as cockpit side panels, seat and bolster backing, drawers in tackle cabinetry,
and any non structural item that is constantly subjected to a wet environment.

Also see: PVC Foam Board as an Alternative to Plywood

Posted: May 10th, '11, 09:18
by bob lico
just to add one small comment all pvc board is not the same . they sell real cheap imitation in box stores soft crap inside the real thing is AZAK brand almost solid and if you buy there trim like 1/4 round it is solid almost the feel of starboard but the fine quality of pvc.in so many words if you cannot get azak ----------don`t bother

Posted: May 13th, '11, 12:58
by luis
Today I found the PVC plates that I was looking for ( I think ) , they call them by some brand names: Komaplus, Komatex and Komacel and for instance the Komaplus have a density of 0.45kgs/cm3 with several dimensions and with tickness between 1 mm to 20 mm.
They say that can be bond with polyester resin without any problems.
Seems that after all I find it here.
Best of all

Posted: May 13th, '11, 16:32
by bob lico
luis can you get PL premium a polyurethane adhesive from loctite. the main corporation is henkel can be look up at www.stickwithpl.com this is one of the best way of joining pvc board. there is also bond and stick.

Posted: May 14th, '11, 02:20
by luis
Thanks Bob , yes Loctite has a distributor here and they also say that I can also use the Loctite 3295 for bonding structural parts.
I stay with the PL cause its not for anything structural and its for the inside.
Thanks again and all the best
Tks Cap Pat