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I know they have their detractors here but I have had PSS shaft seals for over 10 years and they have been flawless.

That being said, for no particular reason, I decided it might be a good year to replace the rubber boots on mine. Just thought it would be a good thing to do. I went onto the website and they recommend you do this every 6 years. Read a few lines up and see the age of mine??? Yeah...

So I went to measure the shaft logs, and the rubber is pretty cracked on mine. Good timing!

So a reminder to those who have them. Check your rubber boots, and replace if necessary! Its the right time of the year to do so! When your boat is on the hard, and the yard isn't swamped...

:)

Dug

Does 2 years in the box sitting on the shelf in an overheated uninsulated "Toy Box" count as part of the 6 years?.....LOL

Just trying to be funny.....that is where my Seals have been for nearly 2 years now.......and guess what....I don't see any signs of water leaks or seal failure at all....


hb

You have 4 more years till on the shelf before you have to throw them out.

Yeah, I would think the bilge would be a worse environment... Just my opinion.

Do the PSS seals drip water or leak while running?

No but as I understand it, they need a constant flow of water fed to them when running to cool them or they'll burn out.

Frank,

Walter is correct; mine never leaked a drop in 9 years.

Tommy

harry
there probably no good sitting around to long, send them up here and ill test them for you this summer

I only ask because I have the PSS seals and they DO NOT leak a drop when I am at the dock.

When I am cruising every half hour or so I flip my rear bilge switch and I seem to have a decent amount of water that needs to be emptied. When I hit the switch it may take 20 seconds to empty out or so.

I have no idea where its coming from so I have been suspecting the PSS maybe were leaking while cruising.

I have not spent a great deal of time investigating the source and will this spring when back in the water.

The engines and running gear were a new install in 2010 and logged about 50 hrs so far so I am still in the breaking in process and working the kinks out.

Frank

frank
when running, have someone open the hatches and look, mine were leaking a bit, just had to put some back pressure on the spring, round metal disk, maybe 1/3 of an inch, they are set with allen set screws. mine have been in for at least 10 years, and still look good.will check this spring and see what they look like.if they look bad ill have to have harry overnight his.lol

I have a hose that comes off the engine that supplies raw water to cool the seal.

Haven't noticed them leaking while underway.

Frank, check your rudders too under way. They may need to be seviced.

Charlie wrote:harry
there probably no good sitting around to long, send them up here and ill test them for you this summer

There ya go Charlie.......that's what friends are for......LOL.....you gonna break them in for me???

hb

since i have been in the habit of running on one engine it worried me the seal would burn out as the prop is spinning but no raw water supply. what i found out was at less than plane speed....not a problem.

you gonna break them in for me???
i would be happy to harry, ill let you know if they are still good at greenport.lol

Charlie,
You just gave me a great idea.....Current Affair just sits at the dock shivering in her boots from....whatcha say......around November thru.....uhmmmm.....about April/May.

Instead of paying all of that money to have her stored for the winter lets put a trailer hitch on Bob Higgins Mack, and all of you guys drive her down here.....you can dock in my boat house (its obviously empty....no telling when it will be occupied again) and we can fish and boat ride all winter. We can go see Doug and Kelly in Pensacola, go to Tickfaw where Vic and Andre will treat us to Ribs, Butt, Venison, and a clear or two and you guys will not have to face all of the snow plowing and shoveling.

Then in the Spring we can make the journey back to Greenport and the Canyon.

That Mack is strong enought to pull several 31's.......may be Lico, Dug, JP, Walter, Giff, Tom, Neil and Brewester wanna join in! ! ! ! !

Then in the spring you can rest for sure that the PSS seals are not all froze up and will be ready for Atlantic action....

Whatcha think??

hb

Sounds like a plan...

harry
that sounds like a plan, just give me 3 years so i can retire first, by that time i would hope you will have thos seals in and running

I'm in but I don't think mine will fit under any bridges.

99% of boaters don't ever replace that stuffing box hose untill it leaks.

Most don't even check the flow hose a couple of times a year until the seal burns up.

They should never leak water running or sitting still.

Remember those bellows hoses are not wire or multiple cord reinforced like the old packing gland hoses.

randall wrote:since i have been in the habit of running on one engine it worried me the seal would burn out as the prop is spinning but no raw water supply. what i found out was at less than plane speed....not a problem.

For low speed applications PSS offers seals without the water plumbing...I believe the cutoff is around 12knots.


"When I am cruising every half hour or so I flip my rear bilge switch and I seem to have a decent amount of water that needs to be emptied. When I hit the switch it may take 20 seconds to empty out or so".


Thats alot of water for a 1/2 hour cruise. The first pumping I'd toss up to water running back from upper stringers, bow sections once the nose comes up on plane...but much more then that I'd be sticking my nose in the hole looking to see where it's coming in from.

As mentioned...Rudders are a good source once your going.
Seals,
Shaft log,
Motors...had a small leak on a Raw water Cross over hose on my way out to Fire Island this year...didn't ooze a drop till we hit plane then it was a heavy stream.
Thru hull fittings...

For me I'd really need to know where water was coming in from....Rubber packing a bit loose....I can live with that till I get to it....

Hose dripping, I need to know if its gonna let loose and if not sure...I don't leave dock.

the last time the pump came on unexpected i had a foot of water in the bilge from a broken hose. i'd take a look.

i don`t know if this helps the rudder leak situation in your boat . one of the old timers suggested i use never-seize on the old style flax material . i have a 1973 with the stock rudder post. i first cut flax to length the rolled in the never- seize . installed and tighten just snug . the rudder boxes have not leaked a drop in 10 years.i also have the pss seals and use a clear reinforced hose to the pss seal. the mate just lifts the hatch to check waterflow , in my case it is essential because the shaft logs cover the shafts for 4" under the boat .what can i say other then rain bilge is dry.

Frank,

The guys have pretty well covered your question, and I'm guessing Brewster is right on, 'cause my water intrusion usually came from the rudder ports. I second CWJ's comments about inspections underway. My preference is to have a competent helmsman take over while underway, and I do a thorough inspection of all hull penetrations. There's nothing like putting your own eyes, ears and nose in the bilge and engine compartments while at rest and underway to learn about your boat.

Timely post im working on the supply lines for the pss seals...I did the crossover lines like Brewster mentoned in a previous post, I found nylon T's like the nylon barb fitting on the PSS seal itself..and tapped into the gear cooler with a stainless fitting...do I need a valve to limit flow or is that setup ok?
Harry, Mack is sleepin the winter away in a barn, would love to hook up a few 31's behind her and drag em to your boat house...anyone know how to drive a triplex transmission? Bertram migration now thats an idea...BH

Bob H. wrote:...anyone know how to drive a triplex transmission? ...BH

Been so long, glad I forgot...LOL
Talk about a well choreographed dance.......
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Harv, All that shifting and I max out at 60mph....and dont miss a shift...pull over and start again...you learn real quick...BH

BobH wrote:do I need a valve to limit flow or is that setup ok?

No valve...

Bob Higgins wrote:Bertram migration now thats an idea...BH

"SnowBERTS".......we may have something here! ! !

hb

I like the idea of a migration a great deal!

I have always thought the best way to winterize a boat was to point her south, and drive until it isn't cold anymore...

I've got a 1988 Mack R688ST that could use some exercise!! It only has a 9 speed so it is easy to shift! It does have the 350 engine, so I think it could handle a couple 31's too!

Rawliegh, R models are my next favorite Mack..lookin for a good one..any pictures of yours? BH

True story
When I was 21 years old I worked for a guy in town here.......we did tune ups, general marine work and even an occasional engine rebuild.

Well one day a wooden sail boat pulled into the Fairhope Municipal Pier. Aboard the boat was 3 young men about my age.

The story goes that they were from Chicago and that the owner of the boat, an old family friend, turned his boat over to his friends and told them to take it for a sail/trip down south then back up the east coast and they agreeded they would be gone all winter. The guys told us that the owner would have had to "Bubble" the boat if it stayed in the water all winter.

The boat was powered by a Ford Diesel engine Leman (spelling ?) conversion and the heat exchanger had craped out on them.

After a few days we finished the repair and they were then off to south Florida......

Sounds like a trip of a lifetime.....at a ripe old age of early 20's

hb

No handy pics Bob, but it looks just like every other white R series. LOL! It was simple cheap horsepower - I paid $4,500 for it. Probably not one you would want to take over the road, but it works great with Farm tags one it! The engine is pretty tight and it runs good! Plenty of power with the 350! Not as cool looking as a B series, but still a manly truck!!