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We've been wiping CX on the tower every couple of months or so, and noticed some corrosion spots under the half tower. We applied some Woody wax and then hit it with the copper wool a day later. After doing this a couple of times, we finally got the spots off. Scary stuff. I know that once it startss, it's kind of like cancer. Question is, does bonding the tower help or hinder the spread of corrosion? it's
kind of confusing to me. I've heard that if everything is bonded and there's battery power wired into the scheme of things, that corrosion will increase. I've heard of some people that unhook their batteries to avoid this. I need some help, guys.
Thanks, everyone.
John.
w

John - corrosion on the aluminum on the pipes under the fabric stretched over the half tower top is very common - I have it on AJ, was there before I became her Steward. My guess is its caused by the salt getting trapped under there and never really drying out, and its hard to get CX on the pipes without a lot of trouble. I started shoving a piece of cardboard between the fabric and the pipes so I coud scrub, spray, and generally get CX in there good without staining the fabric. You just need to treat that area much more often than the stuff that's out in the open. And you are right, once it starts, its tough to stop, takes a lot of attention.

The tower should be bonded in any event.

UV

Whats the best way to combat the corrosion when the anodized alum really starts to fade?

John -you can clean corroded areas very, very well- bronze wire brush, lots of compressed air, MEK or Acetone or something similar- even isopropyl alcohol. Then apply alodine, let it sit for about a minute, maybe more, then flush with fresh water and dry.

You can get clear or dyed alodine, depending on where the corrosion is and what you want from it. In hidden areas if you put the yellow dyed alodine you will turn the bare aluminum yellow and it will serve as a visual warning- if the yellow is gone so is the alodine and you should retreat. In open areas clear alodine might be a better choice. Also, I believe that clear alodine is slightly longer lasting.

The key will be surface prep, so again be sure you get all the dust from existing corrosion out before applying the alodine. Alodine is not as thick as the original anodized coating so once you know an area has been attacked you should check up on it. But it will prevent further corrosion as long as it's there.

thanks i never knew of clear alodine available to public. where do i buy it on long island?

bob lico wrote:thanks i never knew of clear alodine available to public. where do i buy it on long island?

Bob, I never buy alodine. We are given it for touch up from our suppliers. So we have it stored at work. This week I will ask them where it is available for purchase.

thank you!!!