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enclosure, pros and cons

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 08:08
by Marlin
My initial desire was 2 create a single piece of ez2cy that would go from mid bridge around the front to the other mid bridge area, the stuff come 5'x10', iI didn't want any seams or horseshoes that might clutter the lines of the boat/halftower, originally the vendor said "easy, no big deal" know he says I need seams 2 allow the install and removal of the enslosure, do I need one, I hear the boat is wet and have a concern about salt water intrusion into the electronics, engine displays, switches, ciccuit breakers, I did install a/c in the tub area 2 provide air/ heat, obvioslt thhere would be an aft curtain and an entry curtain, the experience amongst you guys will certainly help me out,

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 08:56
by JP Dalik
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This is what we run with. A/C or heat would be a nice addition to help with the fogging on the cold mornings. The driver is usually dry even in the worst of it as long as we're making a little headway. I'd certainly recommend some type of vent in the enclosure, not a u-zip but a vent in the stamoid above the glass line. I don't think you'll need seems, just top and bottom zippers- the EZ2CY guy will have a hard time heating the curves top and bottom into the product- but that's his problem.

Don't think I'd ever build a 4 sided enclosure for a fbc it just kills the look of the boat- IMOH. With the way your teak is set up on the flybridge I would have the enclosure at that point and show it off, build a custom back curtain to zipper into the ends and cover your helm chair, a long batton on the top to keep hardware to a minimum and a sand bag on the bottom suspended off the deck to prevent wear on the non-skid- not that I've thought of this to much or anything.

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 10:26
by Bertramp
JP .... that is one SWEET looking ride !!

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 10:58
by Brewster Minton
I would still get it so I could enclose the whole thing. Maybe you just have the back piece to zip in on those really bad days when you need to hide. I like to hide.

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 12:20
by In Memory Walter K
For running you will need the front and sides, if for no other reason than to protect your instruments and gauges from salt spray. The role the stern piece plays is when docked. Besides hiding what you have up there, I have found it's greatest value is during storms. Prevents "blow outs" of the other pieces. Properly sealed, your enclosure can survive a hurricane (I have been through a few in Montauk over the years). Leave a bit open, and it will tear the enclosure up.

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 12:55
by Capt Dick Dean
Get the whole thing enclosed. Take off the rear as needed and run with the front and sides

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 14:57
by bob lico
i had a 11/2" soft rubber band installed in the bottom 2" of stamoid that surronds the bridge .this band aherse to the countour of the bridge and will keep instruments dry should i roll off a 12' waves and the green water follows the countour of the deck /bridge but does not come in .the ez2cy begins about 4" off bottom and goes all around but i put a zipper on inside so i could remove and leave sides can not be seen from outside the boat.bridge does get stuffy on warm winter day(green house effect) without ventilation i felt it is nessary to have U window with zipper but i am open to suggestion.i have know idea with this "wet boat" talk is about but going out the fire island inlet in 12' waves you have to close the bridge curtain completly .thank GOD it is only 3 waves a front of inlet.

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 15:28
by Bertramp
When I had a FBC, it had an enclosure and I could run in the fall in a T-shirt ... that was in NY.
Down here, getting wet is a lot less uncomfortable and you are not really dodging the cold.
As for your instruments .... a different story

Posted: Nov 11th, '10, 17:41
by Marlin
thx group,, JP, any pics from the bow, the side profile is nice and it was well thought out, the rear seam appears to parallel the rear leg of the tower

Posted: Nov 12th, '10, 00:35
by JP Dalik
I have an old shot before we did the cockpit and covering boards in teak. This was phase one of the rebuild.

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Of course the lines follow the tower legs this is boat building 101 "all contour lines must match the lines of the boat"; the important thing is that the top and bottom is zippered into place. I had the opportunity to use strataglass for no money, it was great for 3 years but is now rippling and hard to see through after, ez2cy should work out better however it all relies on your installer.

The teak on your flybridge presents a unique challenge I would not hinder its beauty to compensate for plastic walls.