Sea Star cyl. seals

[In Memory of Vicroy]

I am losing a litte hyd. oil from my SeaStar system and it does not appear to be coming from either the helm pump or the autopilot pump, so the cylinder is the apparent culprit. I have the original Teleflex book from my install in the early 90s and it states that the cylinder seals should only be replaced by "a qaulified marine mechanic".....I'm probably borderline on that.

I have the part # for the correct seal kit for my cylinder. You guys think I should order the seal kit and have it done locally, or send the cylinder off and have it done by a pro? I remember everyone raving about how good some outfit is on the Hynautic....do they work on SeaStar too?

And BTW, the SeaStar manual lists the approved hyd. oils for the system as follows:

SeaStar - part # HA 5430

Mil Spec H 5606 C

Texaco Aircraft Oil HO-15

Shell Aero No. 4 (I bought a gallon of this for about $25, and its red, easy to spot leaks)

I'm losing just enough fluid over a month to have to refill, maybe takes a few oz. to refill and bleed. Guess I'll wrap some clean paper towels around the cylinder ends and see if I get red oil leaks. Hard to see the cylinder since I have the B28 style rudders and the steering arms and cylinder are under the rudder shelves.

Oh yeah, my new agricultural washdown pump fromNorthern Tool went in real easy (other than the wasp nest behind the side panel, ouch) and pumps way better than the 'marine' versions I've been usimg, 45 psi, blasts crud right off.

UV

[In Memory Walter K]

Vic- Call Charman Enterprises at 1-800-247-6324 and ask them. I've found them to be straight with their answers and reasonable with their prices. Hint: Call before 9:00 am and you'll probably get one of the techies answering the phone. They're the guys to talk to. Walter

[Carl]

I have been into a few Steering Rams...I know several where Hynautic units, not sure if any where Sea Star. Replacing the seals was not a problem...where I found issue on several units...especially older units with Autopilot, the Cylinders where shot (my guess would be the constant correction in one spot takes its toll). The alum tubes are hard anodized, soon as that surface is worn your into soft aluminum and no seal will work for long.

Point being, once you get it apart (half the battle on some units) make sure you take a good look at the bore with a flashlight, look for worn spots...they show up as oval spots mostly in the area where the rams sees the most travel. If you do see...its time to get a new Cylinder.

You said leaking...so that may not be an issue as the Rams don't wear as easily...check for scoring any-how... Rod should be as smooth as a babies arse.

I mention, as checking only takes a few seconds when its all apart. See nothing your good to go...see a problem starting...you get to decide which way to go.

[Eddy G]

Vic,
I boxed mine up and sent it to Charman back in 2004. Had it back in a week for about $100 including parts and shipping. Probably a bit more expensive by now. It's not suppose to be a hard job, but I wanted to have the cylinder inspected for wear before I reinstalled, bled, clean up mess, etc.

Eddy G.

[In Memory of Vicroy]

Thanks, guys. I'll verify the cylinder seals are leaking - and not somewhere else - then pull it out and send it off. I seem to recall having replaced the cylinder once years ago, but at my age remembering my name is a struggle sometimes.

VU....or UV?

[Bruce]

a qualified marine mechanic

I ain't never seen one of those...........


Vic,
Many but not all of the SeaStar rams replace the whole end cap with the seal already in it. All you do is use a two pin spanner wrench, unscrew the cap, slide it off the rod and install the new end cap and screw it on.

Some have a allen head bolt holding the end cap on.

Threads are fine and its likely aluminum so watch for cross threading.

You'll have to take off the hyme joint off the end of the shaft. Just unscrews.

I know I don't have to worry about you doing this, but as I've seen before don't put the ram rod in a vice and clamp down to hold it or over tighten the housing in a vice.

Some hyme joints may be on with loc tite so a little heat with the rod all the way out might be needed.


Drape some paper towels around each end of the cylinder. Any leaks show pretty quick.

[In Memory Walter K]

Vic- I had an intermittent leak I couldn't find for a year. Finally the white paper towel lining found a red spot under the ram. There is a vent hole underneath that you can only see with a mirror or removal. It would only leak when the rudders were left in a certain position. Actually running a clean hand underneath would tell you if that's where the leak is. Necessitated the rebuilding of the ram. O ring seal was worn. Just somewhere else to check. Walter

[gplume]

Vic-

I tried doing mine. Bought the wrench that Bruce mentioned. Sombody along the way bonded my unit together with some tenacious bonding compound. No retainers in the unit. I tried everything..heat ect. Basically I was a week away from my 2 week vaction...B31 rendevous in the middle. I threw in the towel and bought a new unit. $666 dollars later (ouch) up and running. Can't say i regret it, my steering hasd never worked better....and have not had to do anything to it since. (Bleeding was a regular activity.)

On post mortum exam shaft was dinged up pretty bad, so I think the new unit was unfortunately the only way to go fo me.

[Ken Hudson]

I contacted Charmen this summer about doing a Hynautic helm unit for me. The owner could not have been nicer but explained that the economy had caught up with his business and the fellow he had doing this stuff had gone for another job after 20 yrs. with him.

He rcommended a guy in FL, Charlie Walker: 800-745-0765.