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bildge kote
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 17:52
by thereheis
is it necessary to epoxy prime the bildge before using bildge kote? has any one used it an what results.i think this has been up before ,,sorry if it has.
phil
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 18:14
by JP Dalik
I love Interlux Bilge Kote. Prep and paint. Hell on these old boats suck it up when prepped right.
Sand it with 80 then 120 and wipe down with as much dena-alchohol as you can stand. Paint it on and watch the magic. Number of coats is till whatever covers plus 1. We've chosen gray instead of white. Why? Cause who the hell wants to clean white? Shine-eeeeee gray beats crappy white every day.
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 18:36
by Bruce
I've had mixed results using bilge cote and quit using it.
Specifically taking too long to set hard and in some cases not setting up past the sticky state.
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 18:40
by Kevin
Bilgekote rates up there with CX. I did not sand mine. Just clean the best you can. Paint will even displace a few drops of water here and there. I on the other hand think white is the best. "If" you had an oil leak you can easily spot it. Been ther done that with the chryslers....they leaked. I personally think the white looks better. Easily cleans with rags and water. Kevin
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 19:41
by scot
I purchased some BK and it was extremely runny...went on like water, I put on one coat and opted to go another route. At the time I didn't know that was normal for BK and that it required multiple coats.
So, I can't tell you how well it holds up because I chicked out after one coat.
Scot
Posted: Oct 20th, '06, 20:35
by Kevin
I did use about three coats. Forgot to mention that. The first coat still showed some green in the resin.
Posted: Oct 21st, '06, 07:47
by Brewster Minton
After you prepare the surface its better,if possible, to put on more thin coats than 2 heavy ones. When it goes on to thick it will not dry right as others have said.It pools up in little cracks and will not dry. Just my 2 cents.
Posted: Oct 21st, '06, 12:24
by Charlie
I have had good luck with the stuff. Yes sometimes it takes a little to cure. Maybe something to do with humidity? The stuff even sticks to oil saturated wood. I used it in the bilge under the genny. Man that was a mess of 25 years of oil, diesel and bilge crud. I just powered washed with degreaser and then dawn. I did pump the bilge into a 30 gallon garbage can and then into the sanitary sewer system. Don't tell the epa or the local MUD
Posted: Oct 22nd, '06, 22:53
by scooter28
man you guys are making me think i went overkill on my 28. I put down the interlux barrier coat on anything that i used epoxy resin, then i put a coat of pre-kote primer on everything. Then i finally put 2 coats of bilgekote. I went with white and it looks awesome. I just did the engine compartent. I'm thinking of doing the aft section since i've got the tank out. I was thinking of just putting bilgekote down without any primer back there. don't know yet though i'd still be kinda worried that if i didn't use any type of primer that after a few years it would start flaking off.
Posted: Oct 23rd, '06, 07:30
by JohnD
I had used bilgkote on a shelf above my water tank which was redone by the yard that surveyed my boat at purchase. They had used sand to non-skid the area it gets and remains dirty. I've repainted several times with bilgekote only to have it look like crap in a few months. I suspect the problem is the non-skid the yard had put down. Oh well, if I ever repower I'll just add it to the list of areas to rework.
I went with pre-kote primer and brightsides when I rebuilt my rudder shelves 2 yrs ago. I chose it as an alternative to bilgkote and because its a one part paint, it also has teflon in it.
br,
JohnD