bertram31.com

looking for opinions on finish ceiling look. first we have the oem teak molding with 10,000 screws ---ugly , dated . next is to go to work room and have them make up the female "screw cup" and put all the border screws in the cups then cover with male overlay with the ceiling material on it , finish product looking at the ceiling has a series of buttons along the perimeter of ceiling and down the center . the final look is the same as a new bertram whereby they use dense masonite and cover with finish material and velcro ceiling and strips. this strip and borders cover the screws holding up the ceiling .this method brings up the problem of a source of commerial velcro.

All upholstered. Off white, light texture, foam backed vinyl.

Once again...wow.

Keep this up and I won't be able to look at my boat any more! Unbelievably beautiful job!

capt pat---is this your current project?

Craig Mac wrote:capt pat---is this your current project?

Yup. About 3 - 4 days away from being ready to leave my piece of dirt...

You in the get it the F out of here mode yet?

JP Dalik wrote:You in the get it the F out of here mode yet?

Been there for a while... All of my edges are crispy.

Naaaah! You should be proud to have given birth to that! They keep getting better and better!

very similar to what i have except i could not raise ceiling because it is filled with electronics . you use the button technique i posted above .looks real good .did you ever consider the no button look with the screws holding ceiling up then cover the seams/screws with 1" strip of velcro backed 1/4" plywood . this is what there doing on vikings,bertram,etc. ----just sayee

i copy the hatch configuration from the 510 bertram .they have them on both sides in salon for rod holders . the 31 cabin is too short for rods but the white slam hatches blended in with the offwhite ceiling material. the auto pilot pump and comp. with a elaborate bypass system to still have steering should the pump fail is just above starboard hatch and dsm comp. for sonar , smart heading sensor and two isolated electrical panels are above port. iwill photo and you tell me what you think.

I have used 1/4" coosa board panals covered with a textured foam backed vinyl supported to the cabin structure by a hook and loop system {3M}I purchased from Lewis in Ft Lauderdale. It's a bit pricey but really does the job. I have this similiar system in my rybovich and it just doesn't fall down in heay seas but is easily removeable for servicing. I have the depth sounder black box. weather black box, a/c single unit, rupp hydroelectic rigger pump assy ,auto pilot pump, 12volt d/c panal, a/c panal, duct work, all hidden yet easily accessible. I faired out this entire compartment and rolled out several coats of Sherwin Williams self leveling white semi gloss epoxy primer that is used quite frequently inside storage tanks and reasonable, unlike the awl grip multiple step process.I did the vee berth headliner panals and vee berth hull liner panals the same way. I did epoxy 3/4" blocking to the hull to hopefully allow for some air movement to minimize the mold/ moisture issue I did have

Craig's are easily removed, this eliminates the hatches or figuring access.

he actually removes his every winter, we did that like 10 years ago and we just used screw caps and put plugs on the lights- because the intention was to make it removable

I have no pictures- because he removes them when the boat is here, maybe he will share

Capt Pat, Marlin...

The removable panel concept sounds interesting! How did you actually fasten the panels to the hull, and where did you find the Velcro? I assume you used some heavy duty industrial strength Velcro? I also assume you have some kind of system using backing strips glued to the inner surface of the hull, to which you velcro the panels?

Capt Pat...

A long time ago you mentioned you occasionally used the thin fiberglas panels the big box home improvement stores sell for shower lining. This is about 1/8" thick and has a pebble finish on one side. I have been using this for a variety of things on "Phoenix", occasionally doubled over so both sides are smooth (epoxied pebble side to pebble side). It seems to me this material would be an ideal light, inexpensive, thin and stable material as a backer for the foam backed vinyl you are apparently using.

I am facing the task of what to do with the crappy looking mouse fur in the forepeak, and have already bought a roll of foam backed vinyl at a great price. Now I am looking at different techniques to attach it to the hull and bulkheads.

After cleaning any glue residue off the inner hull, I glued 5 , 2" blocks accross the top and accross the bottom of the inner hull, gave them a coat of epoxy to seal them, applied strips of 3M dual lock reclosable fastners I purchased from Lewis Marine in Ft Lauderdale, basically did the same for both cabin headliners

marlin that a terrific idea 3m hook and loop has been around a long time and i use the system on my obital sander . i could use 1/4" stock covered with fabric then install screws and make fabric molding attach with hook and loop .no buttons ,screws , or fasterner at all .very duable.
robbie i don`t need too take entire ceiling down the hatches gives access to electronics it just the unsightly screws around perimeter and down center. i will check out craigs 31 next week.

Bob,

I believe the 3M stuff you want is not the standard hook and look like velcro, you want the dual lock, that stuff holds like iron, instead of having a fuzzy side and a rigid side both sides are rigid

it is what they send you with your EZ-Pass, the adhesive is also very strong

remember Bob- everything is going to have to be removed sooner or later!

robbie to be perfectly honest i have never seen that in my life. were would you by it? that is a great advantage both sides being rigid . you can make all kinds of fabric covered molding out of simple 1/4" wood strips (left over mahogony) use it vertical or horizontal . i have to get some.

It's 3M Dual Lock tape and 12 kinds of expensive...



Dual Lock at Office Depot

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bob lico wrote:robbie to be perfectly honest i have never seen that in my life. were would you by it? that is a great advantage both sides being rigid . you can make all kinds of fabric covered molding out of simple 1/4" wood strips (left over mahogony) use it vertical or horizontal . i have to get some.

get it at lewis, it can be expensive, but it is one of those things that I think happen to be worth the money, if I had to pick one drawback it would be that it is a little thick, so if you need to use it for something that you want more flush- no good.

I had a box of it because buying it by the foot was like getting robbed


same stuff that holds your ezpass on the window, the adhesive is very strong stick them adhesive side to each other and you cant separate them that is how strong the adhesive is

I wish ezpass would have sent me some of that for my commercial truck transponder....5 axle rate..you would hope something special.

HA HA...just had to say it ...I bet I have truck parts scattered from the NJ T-Pike thru I-278 to Commack. Snowbird season coming again...my road money is on the way. lol

Patrick,
Once again you have spurred me to action. My ceiling is not complete as I have been indecisive about several items.
Lights for one. Who, what, where, on the ceiling lights you used.

Thanks

Mikey,

All of the LED lighting is i2Systems Apiron fixtures, including the two lights under the brow and above the engine boxes. Interior lights are dimmable and controlled by a touch light just inside of the cabin door. All in upholstry are flush mount, (A1110). Over the door, (Profile P1400), and engine boxes, (Profile P1100), are surface mount.

I purchased some led's from boat owners warehouse and was dissapointed at the light level being to low to consider as a reading lite for chart etc, what did I do wrong

most of those LED lights while having low power consumption and a nice white light are usually not very bright, as one person described it : "Abe Lincoln would have a hard time reading by that light"

I have tried to get some way to compare the wattage of a traditional incadescent bulb with a LED light assembly, or to get some way to compare light output between the two... Have spoken with several LED manufacturers and each seems to have a different explanation. I still am confused with no logical explanation (or at least one I can understand) of how to compare them.

Pat,
Thanks, I like them.
IRguy,
Agreed. I asked this question a while back and got no answer. Probably because no one has an answer yet. Technology too new. If you figure it out (or some member of the Faithful does) share.