24' Baron Fuel Tank De-installation

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redcat20
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 18th, '06, 16:49

24' Baron Fuel Tank De-installation

Post by redcat20 »

My 24' Baron has fallen victim to E-10 fuel this season. After 15 years of ownership with zero fuel-related problems, there is now a sludge/silt/x mix in the tank that is the worse the marina has seen in 40 years. It looks like coffee rinds with little white particles mixed in. Now, I plan to remove the tank and install a new one. Few questions????
Top of tank, around the perimeter, appears to be fiberglassed to the subfloor or something similar. If I cut the tank loose around the edges, will it come out, or are there other contact points holding it in?
Along similar lines, is the tank glassed into the hull, making it an integral part of the structure or will cutting key "anchor" points let it come out freely?
Has anyone placed an aluminum tank within the shell of the old fiberglass one? How has that worked? Issues?
What are the shops to consider, especially on the Boston Nshore, when getting quotes on a replacement aluminum tank?
Thanks for the help
Redcat20
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lobsta1
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Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 07:47
Location: Beverly, Ma

Post by lobsta1 »

Two of us with B33's are hauled out at Danversport for the winter. On my 1978 FBC, once I cut the glass tabbing on the fore & aft bulkheads the tank came free relatively easy from the polyester putty the bottom was bedded into. Ricks 1985 B33 SF took some real serious persuasion to break it free. So to answer your ??, it all depends.

As far as inside the existing tank: one of the three B28 guys that replaced tanks at Jubilee Yacht Club did do that. By going that route he went from 165 gal capacity to 146 gals.
NITES OFF
1978 B33 FBC

Al
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Kevin
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Location: Just north of South Florida

Post by Kevin »

If your boat is built like mine (28)the tank is glassed to the stringers. I might have pictures of mine on the computer that I could send to you. I have tackled a lot of big projects on my boat with primitive tools, poor working conditions and lack of knowledge other than the will to succeed. Fuel tank removal was something I would have been slightly intimidated by. I kept having thoughts of me and a 33" chainsaw going at it in the belly of the beast! Kevin
Peter
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Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 12:02

Post by Peter »

Kevin;

Did you remove your tank, or are you just saying it looks like a nasty job?

I have a '26 that has a similar arrangement and I must replace my tank this off-season. I would love to have a little heads up on what to expect when I start cutting.

Also interesting is the fact that my tank goes from stringer to stringer, and butts up against a half-bulkhead aft. As such it must add stiffness to the entire hull in that area. So my question is whether it is better to cut the top off and set the new tank in the old box, or just say the heck with it and cut the entire thing out.

Any experience you might have would be welcomed

Peter.
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Kevin
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Joined: Jul 2nd, '06, 19:29
Location: Just north of South Florida

Post by Kevin »

Peter,

Fortunatley, I did not have to attack that job. I switched to diesel which allowed me to keep the tank. Mine is held in the same way. I remember a few posts a while back that went in to detail about how the tank was removed. I think if you do a search in the ethanol discussion board you may find some more detailed info as how to specifically remove the tank Danny at High Tide also qouted me 3600 for ethanol approved glass tank. Not sure if he has other tank sizes available other than the 165 gallon for the 28. Good luck. Kevin
Mac
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Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 09:50
Location: MA

Post by Mac »

redcat20, do you keep your 24' near the train bridge in the Anasquam?
24' Moppie II
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Rocket
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Post by Rocket »

I removed the tank in my 20' Baron and it was pretty easy. It was glassed to an aft bulkhead that ran between the stringers. I used a sawzall to cut a "U" in the bulkhead where the tank was attached then choked a strap around the tank and lifted one end, I used a crane, but a forklift would do the trick. The tank rotated up and out the tank was sitting on a plywood bed that came out with the tank. This assembly was very lightly glassed to the hull, but came off easily with no damage to hull or tank.
redcat20
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 18th, '06, 16:49

24' Baron Fuel Tank

Post by redcat20 »

Thanks for the input.
Just got more into the tank yesterday. Took out, by hand, thru the fuel sender hole, about 1 pint of a substance that resembled coffee rinds mixed with little white particles.
After removing all of the debris I could reach, the bottom actually did not look that bad. But, since I'm not sure where the debris came from, or how much is left, plan to replace the tank.
Seems to be glassed in along the top sides, and front, of the tank.
Guess I would fill it with water and saw away? Tool of choice to get the job done quickly and without incident?
Redcat20
Mac
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Location: MA

Post by Mac »

Sawsall with a 8" or 10" wood blade, be sure to wear a long sleave shirt and respirator, I would also wear nitrile gloves under heavy work gloves, I hate fiberglass dust. Filling it partially with water is a good idea as well.
24' Moppie II
redcat20
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 18th, '06, 16:49

Got Dynamite?

Post by redcat20 »

Marina cut tabbing around top of tank today. And then, with pry bars, chains, and a fork lift, tried to pop the tank out. Entire 24' boat raised right off the trailer, but the tank didn't let go.
Got dynamite, or perhaps a super sharp saw? This is one time that I wish that they went a little light on the resin.
Don't have any other ideas other than cutting it out in pieces. Anyone else?
Anyone tried to insert the new aluminum tank inside the old fiberglass shell? Any ventilation issues?
How high have people mounted their tanks above the v in the bilge to avoid the tank from being marinated in the salt water?
Redcat20
daydreams
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Post by daydreams »

if you can handle the dust a 4" grinder with a narrow wheel works great. [wear a resperator].
what good is a boat if you cant spend all your money and time you dont have working on it.
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