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i am running new wire to everything.would it be ok to put a 12 volt buss bar under the deck in the aft alond the deck support?was thinking that if i did that then i would only have a short run for the stern light and aft bildge pump.then just run another 2- pair wire from the bridge switch back to the pump and light and make both wires hot..does that make any sence ???? then go from the switch to bridge hot feed barr.or any other better ways ???

phil

Phil,

Placing buss bars in convenient locations is good practice, rather than tons of heavy wire to individual items. For buss bars in damp areas it would be a good idea to intall them inside a plastic box. These boses can be had through Radio Shack in various sizes.

Use rubber grommets for the wire lead in to the box...




Br,

Patrick

You won't be helping yourself with a hot buss in the aft area unless what your powering either has a switch aft or is hot all the time. I think your better off having the hot fused buss @ the bridge, running to the switches, then running switch legs to each device. You could add a common ground buss aft, which will shorten the returns, but some want a seperate ground for each device ran back to panel/buss. Nigel Calders book on boat maint. is a good reference for someone who is wiring for the first time, answers a lot of questions.

ScottD

Everytime you add an inline connection between your device and the power source you add a link. The more links however well prepaired will eventually lead to a failure at the weakest link. On these little boats I much rather prefer to make the least amount of links as possible. On our boat there are two sources for voltage after the type 4D batteries themselves. One is the bridge which powers electronics and lighting and the other is the cabin which powers pumps and cabins acces. There is a manual switch connecting the two batteries in case of emergencies.
The simpler the better. A bus bar or power source located elsewhere no matter how well intentioned will eventually lead to disappointment(May I submit the early Intrepid wiring as an example)

K.I.S.S. sometimes not the cheapest but the easiest to fix.

jp
you are so right on the intrepid wiring i found that out after i had to do ssome chasing,,,,,,thanks guys.i think i will just make single runs to each device..

phil

to keep the float switch going in auto and to have a manual on , the switch i assume it takes is a single pole double throw switch am i correct??? to many throws an polls,i am confussed,,,not a elcetrican,,

phil

Poles are the number of connections on the switch.

Single pole means one row of connections.

Double pole means two rows of connections usually isolated from each other.

Throw is the handle movement.

Single throw is just an on/off.
Double throw is an on/off/on

Either switch configuration can be momentary such as a horn. Its positon is spring loaded and will return to off.

A typical rule switch panel is manual on spring loaded, off, auto on.
That would be a single pole double throw or SPDT mom.

A DPDT would be a double pole, double throw.
SPST would be a single pole, single throw or just and on off switch.


If you don't want a spring loaded manual swich and some do so they don't leave the switch on is a on/off/on or SPDT.

A buss bar is considered a power feed device and should be mounted as close to the switches as possible. When figuring the wire size for the buss bar, add up the current draws of everything that will be hooked to it and use the size feed wire the total currnet draw recommends.

Each feed wire needs to be protected with a breaker or fuse at the power source for safety.

Using the buss bar as you stated is not a practical way of doing it.

You can use Tupper Ware containers. Mount the bus bar to the inside top of the container then mount the top were you want then when you are done doing the wires put the bottom of the container on. I have done this on my flats boat and it worked ok. The other guys are right. The less wires the better and less links to cause trouble

You can use Tupper Ware containers

Brewster,
An admission like that can get you a lifetime membership to the Bayliner owners club. For free.


If Catholic:
Do 10 hail Mary's and 5 Our Father's and you will be absolved.

If Jewish:
You just missed Yom Kippur, you'll have to wait till next year.

If Christian:
Repent and you'll be forgiven.

If Muslim:
You got 72 hairy virgins waiting for you.

If a heathen:
Go have a beer.

I've used Tupper stuff for mixin epoxies but I don't remember making any of those things a part of a boat? I guess you could always stick a sandwich in the junction box and save ice chest space.

rewiring a BERTRAM not a bubliner,,,gonna do it right with one long run to each,,, tupper ware made the mold for bubliners,,,,

Wow -- looks like new Senior Members of the Mean Club have joined? Give him a break, he is the only man I know that has a green stick on a B31 -- now that is truly hardcore fishing!

Now you've gone and made me feel bad for havin joined in the fun with the Tupper Ware box. OK, to stay out of the "Mean Club" here comes the apology:

Brewster, "sorry for keel hullin you about the Tupper Ware" After all it is on a bay boat and I don't have much room to talk. I make stuff for boats out of all kinds of household garbage.....I feel better now.

Once stuck a VW engine on a skiff and called it an airboat....as with the tupper ware, it worked but not really much to look at. I have a cleat bolted in the truck to hang my cell phone on. I've been known to use weights that I work out with for a marker bouy anchors....I won't go on for fear of public disgrace.

Hope Bruce doesn't stick me in the Bayliners owners club.

Scot

hey no pun intended not even in the mean club and don't wanna be either....didn;'t mean to step on toes,,,
but tupper ware ?
phil