Gate Valves Advice?

[redcat20]

Got an old Bert-1970. Two gate valves on thru hulls-one for the head to pump overboard, and the other for an engine intake which hasn't been used for years and has been plugged with a bronze plug. Exterior appears to be all bronze on both-true? Are the internals bronze as well, or corrodable metals? (Seems hard to believe Bertram would install valves on salt water boats that were prone to corrosion, but it's possible.) To avoid messing with all the pieces on the head one-thru hull, valve, elbow that have been place for 40 years, can a plastic or bronze inline ball value be fitted as a backup?If the gate valve on the old engine intake fails, since the end is securely fitted with a screwed in bronze plug, could water come out the stem that is attached to the round handle? Interested in experienced thoughts and suggestions. Thanks.

[In Memory Walter K]

Gate valves will not pass any surveys any more. We removed all of ours and replaced with bronze ball/levered valves. Kept all the thru hulls. After all those years, removal of the gate valves was a bit scary. Soak with Corrosion-X, let sit overnight, tap e few times. Remove hoses and add some heat if necessary. Good luck. P.S. make sure your thru hulls are still connected to your bonding strip with a wire connection.

[redcat20]

Thanks for the note. On the raw intake will probably just take the gate valve out and move the plugged elbow down. On the head valve, have to take gate valve out and insert an up to date one. Want to use existing thru hull, all threads normal-counterclockwise to remove things? Good mfg of non-flange ("spin on") valve?

[In Memory Walter K]

Usual counter-clockwise threads them off. The ball valves are pretty standard but make sure you don't get ones with steel handles as they rust asap.

[Bruce]

Conbraco valves. Don't get the valves at your box home store.