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Rejex vs NuFinish
Posted: Mar 6th, '10, 22:30
by Ken Hudson
After an 8 month test which was conducted under closely controlled conditions (right!) on the hood of my '98 GMC. I have come to the conclusion that Rejex offers no advantage to NuFinish.
Having no background in chemistry, I cannot explain this other than to say that I suspect that a polymer is a polymer is a polymer.
Ken
Posted: Mar 7th, '10, 00:00
by dougl33
Get back to me when you've tried it for 6 months in salt water.
Posted: Mar 7th, '10, 14:06
by Bruce
Remember Rejex was originaly created so that the soot from turbine exhaust could be wiped easily from the painted surface of an aircraft.
There are so many polymer products out now a days for autos that Rejex makes no sense cost wise and is in many ways no better.
I wouldn't use it anywhere but on a diesel transom that leaves soot deposits.
Posted: Mar 7th, '10, 15:22
by Charlie J
i use it on the transom and as bruce says the soot just washes away, iam putting a new name on the boat this year what is the way to remove it. capt patrick, uv , anyone.
Posted: Mar 7th, '10, 15:43
by dougl33
I've been using it on my topsides, transom, cabin, and bridge since 2005. Its been far superior to any wax that I've ever used.
Posted: Mar 7th, '10, 20:03
by Kevin
I am lucky, I do not get soot on the transom anyways.
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 07:19
by Bruce
Its been far superior to any wax that I've ever used
Yes polymers are superior to wax in many applications, but not all.
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 07:25
by CaptPatrick
Bruce wrote:
Yes polymers are superior to wax in many applications, but not all.
Polymers almost never work for bikini lines...
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 08:16
by Bruce
Polymers almost never work for bikini lines...
When used with 80 grit paper, it works just fine.
Just ask any French or Italian woman.
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 09:17
by Carl
Oh this discussion went downhill fast...
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 09:23
by Charlie J
what type of soap or solution will take rejex off, putting a new name on the boat this year
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 09:41
by CaptPatrick
Charlie,
Any concentrated liquid soap, (Dawn, Wisk, Tide), combined with about 10% sudsy ammonia will remove just about any polymer finish. Apply this solution with a rag and keep it wet for about 5 minutes by repeated re-applications. Rinse well with fresh water and follow up with a wash of denatured alcohol and you'll be ready for paint or new vinyl lettering.
You can test the surface by spraying on water. If the water sheets you're good to go. If it beads at all, repeat the cleaning cycle.
Removing wax is best done with a wash of naphtha, then soap and water.
Posted: Mar 8th, '10, 09:59
by Charlie J
thank you capt patrick
if this weather keeps up [ 55 degrees ] i should start working on her in a few weeks