bertram31.com

Hi All,

1 year later and she finally has the engines in with all thru hulls and rigging done! All she needs now is the body work and re spray. This will be done with Imron matching the Awlgrip Oyster White. Not a scrap of wood used in the cockpit etc sub structure (all laminated foam core and pvc board) except for the strut pads! I'll never get the money and time back that I've put into her but you guys'll understand the passion! We've taken pics every step of the way and will post when all done -start to finish! --Absolutely meticulous!!!

Initially, I wasn't going to replace the rub rail but after all of this work I know that the old one will just bug me when the paintwork and all else is perfect.

So, I was wondering if there is any difference/advantage at all between the replacement rubrail that Pat used to offer and the one available from Hightide? Hightide have one ready to ship and time is of the essence. I am waiting to hear from Pat and Alex and not sure if they'll even have one ready at the moment anyway.

So tell me guys is there any real advantage of Pat's over Hightide's?

I hope to hear from those guys soon but if I don't I'll have to go with Hightide's as I want to remove my old one before the re-spray.

I thought that I would just check to see if there was any real difference re fit, quality or ease of installation?

Hope some of you can give me an objective opinion as I need to move on this ASAP.

Pat/Alex if you see this post let me know re availability as soon as you can.

Sincerely,

JJ

Danny's PVC guard rails are actually designed for the 46' Bertram and a few other models. They do not have the same profile as the original rails on the B31. Alex's rails do have the same original profile and thereby will look better...

I doubt that Alex monitors this board very much, so you need to contact him directly for availability: http://www.31bertram.com/index2.html

i went with alex, very happy with the rail, i think most of the members here have dealt with alex also, give him a call he might have one in stock.

JJ,

Don't let anyone kid you. The rubrail job is a prick. Layout is real important so you don't overlap screw when you put the stainless on. The aft corners are a real peach and not exactly the same port to starboard. Oh yeah don't be cheap with the 5200 it does make a difference.

Good news is the new rail boat really stiffens up and taking the old one off will give you a chance to refasten all the old rivets that have rotted our or pulled through.

Yup rub rail replacement- good times,,,, good times.

not to sound like a complete dumb ass, but whats wrong with the original rub rail? why replace it if you still have it? I admit mine needs cleaning up, and a few screws but other than that, nothing

The original rub rail has several things going wrong with it due to its age and material.

1. Stainless screws in an aluminum structure living in salt water. You should be noticing a fair amount of oxidation on these connections, this will lead to water intrusion

2. Over 30 years of boat flex the original caulking compound is more than likely gone. Contributing to water intrusion at certain points along the rub rails length, Does the cabin seem a little stinky? Check for rub rail leaks, Oh that's right most of the attachment points are hidden except for the V-Berth

3. By now the anodizing if any was used is all but wore off the aluminum. So now every time it rains the black streaks on the hull are due in part to your aluminum rub rail shedding a bit of color

4. Even if repaired with special coatings and "super paints" the effect is generally short term and the entire process has to be redone or at the very least patched. Again because of the aluminum age, application etc.

5. Over the years the hull flex has more than likely pursueded a fair number of the hull rivets to loose their purchase. A rub rail replacement affords the opportunity to refasten these connections and seal any gaps in the deck to hull connection from leaking in the future.

6. It looks more modern and up to date.


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