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I did not get a gasket in the rebuild kits for my 4BT's.

I think there should be a gasket in between the wet elbow and the exhaust side of the turbo. When I tore the engines down I dont recall if there were gakets or not.

The Turbo is a Holset H1C, can anyone confirm if there should be a gasket there and possibly have a part number.

I got the Gasket sets for the rebuild off my CPL but I think that marine engines dont always get the correct stuff even if CPL is given at pars counter. It would not be the first time I was given wrong stuff.

Mine had them.....you can call Brad at Tony Athens (Sea Born Marine)place 800 200 2628. i think they were $20 ea..

Frank
I believe that you are correct about the gasket being omitted from a normal gasket set. I did not get that gasket in my set either.

I happen to have some high tempt gasket material that I have used in some industrial applications. I cannot remember the trade name but I believe that it made of some sort of Raybestos and has a temprature rating of about 600 degrees.

I am gonna use this material......I just took a hammer and tapped out a gasket the shape of my exhaust elbow flange.

I used this same material to make gaskets that will blockoff the exhaust elbow from the exhaust manifold when I freshwater cooled a 350 to go in one of my old boats. I realize that the water cooled manifolds don't see the same high heat as the Cummins elbow but I am pretty confident that it will work.

You can get this material from most any industrial gasket, hose and fitting supply house.

The Cummins gasket that I remember removing from my engines is a single thickness steel gasket.

Harry

Harry-

I know my 330hp 6bta's mixing elbows see 900 degrees at cruise.

-ANDY

I would not use anything but the metal gasket. Anything other than that will eventually leak.

To Clarify, my gaskets were metal.

I got the gaskets from Cummins. I got BOTH engines running today. I have a very slight exhaust leak where this gasket is.

It is very slight and I have to believe the surface of the water cooled housing where the exhaust elbow is bolted to must be uneven.

It was pretty rusted before the rebuild and there may be a spot where the gasket is not getting "sandwiched" enough.

Anyone have an idea how I can tackle that, like a home remedy and not buying a new housing. It is very minor but it has to be fixed.

I am just waiting for my new fuel tank. Working with that rear deck removed is getting dangerous. I still have a lot of work ahead though. If I can work a few hours a week on it I will have her done by spring.

The best fix is to resurface both the turbo and the elbow.

I did both of mine when the engines were disassembled. Its not a bad job at all to chuck the turbo housing in a lathe and face the surface that you are talking about. The elbow is a little more difficult to hold while resurfacing.

The finish should be a course finish (but flat)....sort of like an old phonograph record....do not get it to smooth.

The old home remedy may be to use 2 gaskets....but it aint gonna last long.

Harry

I guess I will have to pull it off again. I did clean it up (it was not in good shape) but I guess I will have to look at it real close.

I will rough it up with some sandpaper (both surfaces). I was really hoping the gasket was going to do the trick. It is a bear to pull the exhaust off and get the elbow off.

Oh well........!

Frank
As you just figured out, your sealing surfaces need to be in good shape for a steel gasket to seal properly.

That's rarely the case with exhaust systems and especially marine exhaust.

There are Industrial Gasket materials manufactured that will take the heat.

Today I looked at the gasket material that I like and use for high heat applications. The material is Durabla. I get it at a local Hose and Gasket supply house.

I have used this stuff for years and never been disappointed. I agree that the exhaust temprature reaches 900 degrees plus but I disagree that the gasket sees that same temprature.....it would seem logical that the exhaust flange would be the same tempt as the exhaust gas but......at 600 degrees steel turns dark blue, at 1000 degrees steel gets blood red and at 1500 degrees steel gets cherry red......take a look....have you ever seen your turbo or exhaust flange turn even a dull red???

I doubt seriously that the exhaust flange ever exceeds 600 degrees....its bolted directly to a turbo housing that is water cooled. I have heard some of you guys talk about having infrared tempt gun.....what's the chance you will shoot the flange at cruise and tell us how hot it really gets.

The Durabla comes in several thicknesses up to at least 3/32" and will compensate for imperfections in the flanges surfaces.

I realize that it is quite a job to remove the exhaust and replace the gaskets......due to a little uncertainty I am reluctant to make firm statments about Durabla......but I am gonna use it based on my personal successes in the past.

Might be worth a try before having the turbo and flange resurfaced.

It may be a while but I will tell you how mine work out.

Harry