bertram31.com

with all due respect for the brothers who posted there methods of applying varnish i have to give buju a real pat on the back.i replaced all the floorboards in the cabin with coosa board laminated with teak and holly plywood bordered with mitered 5/16" thick EPI wood.i follow buju advise or secret shall i say. 5 coats of epifanes rapid coat wet sanded with 320grit ten 4 coats of epifanes varnish rubbed effect . wow what a durable u/v proof but most of all antique furniture finish .buju your the best ----thank you

Bob-

Post some pics. if you can.

John F.

john here you can see the epi mitered .it takes the place of the alluminum trin and twice as strong,very inexpensive and work well with teak and holly.

Absolutely beautiful! I hope you're providing slippers at your doorway! You never cease to overwhelm me with your craftsmanship. Walter

Thanks Bob, but all the credit should go to Capt. Pat.
He inadvertantly turned me on to the Rapidcoat / Rapidclear product line a few years ago when he was doing the teak console for ZeroCavity.
Now, I have come up with some tricks for the stuff on my own (one of em has to do with coating Ipé patio handrails in a exterior subtropical climate on oceanfront mansions... not an easy task if ya want longevity)
but, all in all, as usual, Capt. Patrick and this amazing source of information, entertainment, and friendship we all know as Bertram31.com deserves the credit.

Bob

That looks perfect. Congrats. I really hope to see your boat some day.

John

john i cannot say everyone likes that hand rubbed effect but i figure high gloss would definitly show the sand scratches (beach sand).this froorboard has only one coat of top coat and four more to go!the low luster seems to lay down flat as opposed to the other varnish i used in the past.buju i could have sworn it was you!! sorry capt patrick i should give credit where due. btw. the epi strips is what the floorboard rest on in the boat so i cannot see a wear point whatsoever.

No no Bob, I did recommend a finish schedule to ya.. but it was Patrick who initially turned me on to the product.

Only he first did a multi-coat epoxy encapsulation...
followed with quickly achevied film build my several coats of Rapidc. in quick succession...
Topcoated with good ol Epifanes varnish...

I was floored by the finish, and you know what they say about immitation and flattery and all of that.
In fact, my front door has 3 coats of epoxy, with 3 coats of rapidclear, and 3 coats of Petit 1015.

BTW... that panel is looking sweet. Great uniformity in the sheen... you took your time and it shows.

How thick is the coosa board you used as the backer?

Thanks,

JR

Bob

As usually a first class job. I love the look, but the thought of the first scratch makes me shudder.

i use 3/4" coosa with straight epoxy to laminate the teak and holly to the coosa. the coosa was first entirely covered with two coats of epoxy,then joined to the teak.very easy job but you have to give alot of though to make sure your holly lines up from entry to wedge shaped piece in the forward part of the v-berth sole (4 pieces).i also have a knew floor i created in the galley by moving entire refrigerator and draws foward to hull side.two people can past side by side in cabin now.the new floorboards are 1/4 of the weight of old stock. scratches don`t show very much (the v-berth boards are in place) and can very easily touch up with light wet sand and recoat if nessary.

Bob: That looks too good to walk on!!