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I know that the previous owner made some changes. Now, I'm trying to take the side windows out and I just can't see how to do it. Is there any screws that I don't see ? Before I do something heavy can anyone tell me something about this ? I spend more time reparing old repairs badly done then doing what I planned to do. But the work is in progress. Thanks

Luis-Feel around the entire inside of the frame. There are screws that have to be removed all around. Sometimes the dirt and aluminum corrosion hides them. The standard 2-part windows have to be slid back and forward to have proper access to them. Mine separated at the forward upper corner. Walter

Walt, what was the name of the sealant that Capt. Pat recommended for seating the alum. frames for the side windows? Thanks

Ed,

Pettit Dolfinite for non-adhesive bedding... A similar product by Interlux is Boatyard Bedding Compound

For adhesive compounds I prefer SikaFlex. Sikaflex 291 is an all purpose marine adhesive / sealant that is used for bedding and light bonding, above and below the waterline. Sika makes a variety of compounds for different applications

Br,

Patrick

Great info guys. One of my sliding windows has been cracked all season and I recently went to try and take it out. I was able to get the forward slider out by simply lifting it up in the track and pulling the bottom out. The aft sliding window, the one that is cracked, wouldn't clear the frame when I lifted up. I didn't want to break it because I would lose a good template for replacement. I looked for screws in the track but did not have much luck. Based on Walters comment, perhaps I have to take another hard look.

Walter- any idea how many screws are holding it together?

I am thinking that I am going to have to take the whole frame apart. I got a quote from a glass company for $475 to do the job ($150 for the glass). I am operating on a low budget this year so I would rather put $475 of fuel in the boat than pay someone for something I should be able to do myself.

A few people suggested that I just break the damaged window out and replace it with plexi or some other type of plastic (all of my windows are the original safety glass). I hate to do that because that would mean I would have to replace all of the sliders in order to match.

Any other suggestions?

First I would measure the distance between two screws you can see and assume that is the approxmate distance to the next one. If all else fails and you have to break it, you can make a template out of cardboard that os a bit shy (and removeable). To be sure, use that to have an inexpensive plexi one made quickly and cheaply to keep out the wind and rain while you use the template to have your safety glass version made. You will probably be surprised at how well the plexi one matches. I found American Marine in Florida a fairly priced and responsive supplier.

Mack wrote: A few people suggested that I just break the damaged window out and replace it with plexi or some other type of plastic (all of my windows are the original safety glass). I hate to do that because that would mean I would have to replace all of the sliders in order to match.

I did my windows that way, went with Limo-Dark PolyCarbonate. With the original windows tinted inside and out... all I had to do was give it a few hammer shots and the whole window could be pulled out and used as a template. Cut the Poly a bit longer for more overlap, then me and a bud where able to bend it enough to get it to slip into place.

First side took a couple hours, did that myself on land, 2nd side, finished in less then an hour.

I tried to back a few screws out, to go with glass...wasn't going to happen.

My son & I replaced all the windows 5 years ago. The one on the port side rear cracked within 2 months. I think it is time to replace it. The worst job on the boat was replacing the curved windows, we got the windows from American Products in Pompano Beach. The side windows are not that difficult.

My side window shattered into a million pieces in a rough sea offshore. I discovered it was caused by one of the frame screws backing out and creating single point pressure that the stresses and strains of the pitching sea ultimately did the window in.

walter is right sbout the screws being obscured.I want to say 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom under the felt track liner. they are there and they are accessable and they can be removed .I think they are flatheads but dont hold me to it. when you remove the screws and you try to "pop" out the pressed in window...it will actually "pop" out like it was pressed in cause it was. American marine did the side windows for me 12 years ago. Today they have a much better window and locking system. They have a window with an exterior flange so its not a press in window like the original factory windows ,,it sits in the opening and the flange provides the screwing to secure it in place.. they are not cheap,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for all your replies. My problem is that the previous owner put one sheet of plexi and he fill all the window with sykaflex. Now I want to go back with a 2 windows that can be open. I go to remove all the syka and then I believe I can find those screws. Thanks again.

on 11-21-02 Capt. Pat wrote the following about side window removal:
There are 4 or 5 screws along the top run of the frame and same on the bottom run, probably 2 or 3 up the front run. Some of these will be accessible from the inside, others outside. All are down in the track, in some cases below the felt weather stripping. Remove these... in the upper forward corner of the frame you will see 4 screws that are on the inside face of the frame. These go through to an angle plate. Remove these.

Carefully move the front of the frame outboard until the forward end of the frame is clear & ouside of the boat. Carefully pull the top forward joint apart enough to slide the glass panels out.