Sandy,
The hardest part of the replacement may be getting the old rudders out.
Remove the tie bar ends from the ball joint of the tiller arms. You'll have to remove the plug screw from the end of the socket connector ends to free up the socket assembly.
Loosen the tiller arm bolt, then remove the bronze lock collar, and loosen two allen head set screws on the inner ring of the upper bearing, and unscrew, completely, the packing cap nut. Apply penetrating oil to all contact points along the shaft.
You'll probably need a large hammer, like a 3 lb machinist sledge, and a 6" - 8" drive pin 1" in diameter. The drive pin can be any metal, steel, bronze, or brass. A long 6"x1" bolt will work fine.
Additionally you may need a large pair of channel lock pliers, small pipe wrench, and an angle grinder with both 4 1/2" thin metal cut off wheels & 36 grit sanding discs along with your other general tools. The grinder may be necessary to dress the mushroomed over shaft top after betting on it before it will pass through the bearing race.
Consider that the old rudders & bearings are of no value, other than as metal scrap, so don't worry overly about getting them out in pristine shape. You'll want to replace the flange bearings with new bearings, (available from WW Grainger or
Wholesale Tool Company).
Once the old rudders are free, the new rudders will slip right into place. Even if you have really stuck old rudders and have to beat them out, the whole job can be done in a day...
The current price is $1,375.00 plus $47.00 S&H ($1,422.00 total) shipped to NJ. Stainless prices are still on the rise, so that price could escalate within the next 30 days...
Br,
Patrick