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I cut out rotten ply @ scuppers would like to replace with 5/4 azek will fiberglass adhere to composite

PVC, (Azek and other brands), doesn't really bond well with polyester and only slightly better with epoxy. Your best material of choice would be Coosa Board, which would also allow you to use polyester rather than epoxy.

The flat curve was made by laminating strips within a jig that was fitted to the original teak base.

capt what did u use for the shelf

Both the rudder shelf and the tramsom deck ledger were made by epoxy laminating two pieces of 1/2" BC exterior plywood, with 1208 biaxle between them. After final shaping, they were completely glassed over with two layers of 1 1/2 oz mat. Both parts were epoxied, screwed, and tabbed into place.

Capt. Pat

Is the piece behind the deck and the upright all Coosa or did you use other material. If its Coosa it looks like it takes to a router quite nicely.

Yup, this is Coosa Board, glassed over with polyester... Stuff is a real pleasure to work with, except for the dust; like microscopic razor blades.

Beautiful work again Capt. Pat.

Capt pat nice. I can understand how you get the shape for the base, but how did you get the bend in top part. Looks like its at least 3/4 Coosa and I would not think that would bend too easily.

Sharp eyed Devil.... You're gonna' dig out all of my tricks, huh?

Two pieces of 1/2" Coosa laminated together with the curve preset. But the Coosa board is fairly flexible by itself. More flexible than plywood, not as flexible as PVC foam board...

That is pretty cool. I have a length of 3/4 left from my bulkhead job, I might see if that will bend as well as the 1/2 inch. Have nothing to loose.

By the way, whose clamps are you using, I want to buy stock in that company. LOL

Tony,

I have some if you need it. All 3/4" bends real easy.

No shop, and I mean NO shop, ever has too many clamps... In this case, your investment would be in Harbor Freight.

There's another way to make boards, planks, and even sheets of heavy material more bendable: Kerfing

Capt. Pat

Thanks for the kerfing idea.

Greg

Thank You for the offer. I actually have enough left over from the bulkhead and some other spots I used it to copy Capt. Pat's idea.

When I am done wiring I will let you know what I have left over. I should have one or two of the colors you will need.

Cool thanks.

Damn Patrick, you make everything look so easy.

Harv wrote:Damn Patrick, you make everything look so easy.

Believe me, Harv, ain't nothin' easy...... I've been working on this boat for three years and just now is the end seeming to show up on the horizon.

Glued down the last stick of hardwood flooring in the cabin today & start surfacing and adjusting hatches tomorrow. May start the sealing early next week - another process that will look easy in an image, but will take 10 - 15 sweaty days to get to the point of punching the shutter button.

Capt. Pat

That goes back to a prior thread with our comments on how long it takes to put one of these boats back together. You still make it look easy. Besides, its climbing up and down that ladder to get something we need that keeps us young and in shape.

capt thinking of using marine ply 4 trans shelf coosa is not a easy thing to get in the north east and getting 20 more years out of repair is not a bad thing for me .let my son worry about the next 20 after. would like 2 use ply 4 gunnel shelf under decks

capt would u like 2 give a estimate 4 the coosa board w/scupper cut out

killa wrote:capt would u like 2 give a estimate 4 the coosa board w/scupper cut out

I don't have any Coosa left on hand and not planning on purchasing any soon. I have to buy full sheets and the only economical way for me to purchase it is by picking it up from the supplier, over 500 miles away in Houston. I go to Houston about once a year and usually pick it up as a "while I'm here" item...

You'll be fine making all of your items from plywood and epoxy glassing them. For areas that will require bolts or screws, use the techniques I describe in the tips section: http://bertram31.com/proj/tips/sleeving.htm

Done properly, plywood can last a life time and has one of the highest strength to weight ratios of any material you can use.