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Gave AJ a deep cleaning yesterday after much neglect.......the Stamoid cockpit shade was filthy with dirt and mildew where water stood on top. Washed it good with Super Clean & Dawn....got most of it off, but not the mildew.....hit it with some diluted Clorox....no go.....hit it with straight Clorox and let it sit for about 5 minutes.....like new.

Ditto on the helm seat and the two jump seats.....they are covred with Stamoid and had lots of deep stains that would not budge.....straight Clorox did the trick, not a spot left.

Its been in the 90s so work needs to be done in the mornings....took AJ for a hi speed ride and the 20 year old 6BTAs still push her along just fine.

The famous Prop Stop on the Tickfaw River has changed hands...rumor has it the former owners are in the pokey on dope charges (no, say it ain't so, not at the Prop Stop!)....rode by yesterday and a big sign says "opeing soon, the NEW Prop Stop".....we shall see.

UV

thank vic i was afraid the straight clorox might destroy the theads or the plastic coated zipper. i have black mold were the stamoid wraps around alluminum tower.

Clorox is not going to do signifigant damage if you rinse it off well.....my Stamoid is sewed with GoreTex thread tho, so not an issue for me.

Any of you chemists out there got any views on "killing" Clorox with a mild acid, say a vinegar & water solution after bleaching out mildew?

UV

From the web:

Whatever you do, never use vinegar or any other acid in an attempt to neutralize your chlorine bleach. It will destroy the hypochlorite that is the active ingredient of chlorine bleach, but only by turning it into much more caustic and dangerous chemicals, including deadly chlorine gas. (The amount of chlorine gas produced by a mild acid such as vinegar is small, but it won't do your fabric any good, and stronger acids can produce lethal amounts.)

You must also strictly avoid using chlorine bleach on any synthetic fiber, such as polyester or nylon, because the damage done by chlorine bleach to synthetic fibers is irreversible. Gortex/Tenra thread will hold up better, but if the item is sewn with standard threads, chlorine bleach is going to destroy them...

There are three good alternatives for neutralizing hypochlorite bleach: bisulfite or metabisulfite, thiosulfite, or peroxide.

Bisulfite and metabisulfite
Bisulfite, or metabisulfite, is the most economical choice. It is widely sold under the name Anti-Chlor by dye suppliers. It does not matter whether you buy sodium bisulfite or potassium bisulfite. It is economical because only small amounts are required.

Bisulfite is also used as a preservative of fresh and dried foods, such as the potato salad in restaurant salad bars, or dried apricots. A good local source would be your local home wine brewing supply store, as sodium bisulfite is widely used for sanitizing the fruit juices to be used in wine, to stop yeast growth, and as a preservative. Camden Tablets are a product sometimes used in wine-making; each tablet contains 1/16th teaspoon (0.3 ml) of sodium bisulfite.

Thiosulfate
Sodium thiosulfate, also known as Bleach Stop, is another excellent choice for neutralizing chlorine bleach. It is less economical than Anti-chlor because you must use a much larger quantity to prepare your bleach neutralizing bath. Thiosulfate is commonly used in developing photographs, so you may be able to find a local supplier in the form of a photography supply store.

Peroxide
Hydrogen peroxide is a third choice, perhaps preferable for asthmatics who are sensitive to the effects of sulfur-containing chemicals. It is more expensive than Anti-chlor or Bleach Stop, but it has the advantage of being readily available at pharmacies. Look for 3% hydrogen peroxide among the first aid supplies at your local drug store.