bertram31.com

John

I never counted mine and I am not at the boat, but mine has the following:

2 tachs
2 volt meters
2 oil gauges
2 water temp
2 start buttons
1 horn button

By the way they are called Hollywood dash panels.

http://www.bertram31.com/newbb/viewtopi ... 5d1d06d957

John

Go to the above link. This is what it should look like.

I have a 31 sportsfisherman. My bridge dash has 2 openings for starter buttons (same size as horn). My lower dash does NOT have the 2 holes for starter buttons. The starters are in the key switches.

That looks right. The center small hole is for the horn. Big holes for the Tachs. This set-up allows for Volt meters as well as amp meters, temp and oil gauges. Most just have volt meters. Walter

Does your frame separate from the back piece?

waltek are you sure amp gauge? i would think gear oil pressure or temperature. amperage gauge on bridge would be dangerous business ,just a little snafu and the boat is history due to the fact the current must be in series.pretty big wires going to bridge (# 6 ga. minumim) on a gasser.

Bob- I stand corrected. Walter

Walter; What year is your 31SF I have starter buttons at the lower and upper helms. No Keys
Chris

My registration says 1966 but hull number 31-382 makes it more like a 64-65.
My lower set up has key starters.

I had my panel powder coated black, (first shot, "before") and I really like the way in came out... (second shot, "after")Though, I admit there was a post a while back with an absolutely stunning job done on the original panel that makes mine look like crap. Didn't hear about the ISS guages until about a year after I bought my Faria's. Would have gon that route if i had known about them.





Bob...not trying to be a poindexter, but as far as I know, an amp meter is just a volt meter....calibrated to read the drop across the "shunt" resistor tied tot he output of your alternator. I think we all had this set up originally (I took my alternator shunts out (replaced with shunts on the ground side of the batterys)...amp meters were replaced long beofre I got the boat)...as did most 60's sports cars with instruments from "back in the day".

Interesting, I have never seen the 4 small gauge variation before! We learn something every day on this site don't we!

Didn't hear about the ISS guages until about a year after I bought my Faria's. Would have gon that route if i had known about them.

Do the Farias give a lot of trouble compared to the ISS or is there another reason to use ISS instead?

I have had a Faria engine synchronizer gauge for over 10 years and I am very pleased with it.

Nice looking instrument panel Giff. Now I got another thing on my to-do list....

brother this is 1960 era non electronic.a amp meter should read the total draw on the system not the alt. not cool puting that in dash should go in electrical panel to moniter load this way the wiring does not go throughout boat and it is contained in the electrical panel and is fused on location.look at a blue seas panel they have a digital one on face i will photo mine tommorow. ac load and dc load both have amp. gauges on panel as well as voltage.the voltage on the instument panel tells output of alt.(good indicated if you break a belt).the voltage gauge on main electrical panel is the real story of the electrical system.this is one post i will only talk in general .phoenix has been in business since 1952 doing electrical so i will not discuss the subject any more but any thing you want to know p.m me.

Guys..Bob turned me on to the ISS fuel sender, and Pat and Bruce the guages (one post with several back and forths). I bought a sender from them (Iss), and the differnce between them and the sender I got from Faria was night and day....I liken it to snap on tools vs craftsman. Based on that experince I expect that the ISS guages would be a cut above.. The farias are performing great and look great (to me), so I can't say anything bad. Service has also been great when I have technical question. I would not hesitate to recomend them.... But that said....they don't seem to be in the same league as the Iss "products" based on my limited experience.....(Craftsman gets the job done....and I have plenty of thier tools in my box is you catch the analogy....but they aint in the "professional grade" status in my book.)

Hope this clarifies my statement....Not a ding on Faria...but more an endorsemnt of ISS (again..based on my limited experience.)

BTW-

Thanks John. If you need any pointers on the wiring..let me know. I am in the process of drawing up my wireing to document what I have so I can remember what is what when my brain turns to mush.

On the instrument topic, are any of you guys running gear oil temp or gear oil psi gauges? I noticed this is an option in the TwinDisc literature.

scot wrote:On the instrument topic, are any of you guys running gear oil temp or gear oil psi gauges? I noticed this is an option in the TwinDisc literature.

Both on the Blackfin.

My # 31-327 is a '63.

Then I'm right, I must be a 64 or 65.

yes you should moniter either gear oil pressure or gear oil temperature very important .a failure could put you dead in the water and if you could pick up the problem early you may save $7000.00 by just adding oil.this is my instrument panel. the parameters are set by me for high and low on back of gauges.the l.e.d. indicator needle flashes red if one of the parameters are off,as well as audio alarm. when ignition is turn on gauges flash to show gauge alarms are working.twin scan also has two engines on one gauge for a tight area.

gplume this is the back of the main panel (there are four on boat) look at the wires to the ampere gauge be it ac or dc wires are # 4 gauge on ac amps and # 6 on dc amps . this moniters the electrical system on board. panel also moniters 3 battery banks .a good indicator of whats happening.to moniter amps. at alt. output is not the way to go. voltage on console with tell alt. condition and if belt goes bad the earliest alarm .

here is main panel with generator panel alongside.

Bob

Where did you find the room to put those breaker panels? If I had to guess they look like they might be in the vberth or under the table in the cabin.

tony the main panel shown is in the v-berth,then there is a waterproof panel in the cockpit that controls cockpit activity;under gunnel lights,under water lights,washdown,livewell.then there are two small panels on bridge . one is dedicated electronics with all kinds of safeguards ,controlls radar,sonar,auto pilot etc. the last pannel is off engine battery for console instuments ,3 bilge pumps ,ignition.this is a w/p 4 position panel.all panels are isolated and are fed from distribution center on individual breakers located in the salon under bench.

Bob

Nice well thought out. You took just about every step you could to prevent an electrical short causing a fire.

Bob-

Interesting. Definately not what I have seen in the past, or what I have now. The first picture below shows my original set up with a shunt resistor off of each alternator. The second image is my presnt set up where the current is measures off of the ground line of each battery. (Voltage drop across a shunt resistor) This tells you current draw off of each battery..(Link 20 from Xnatrex) I was skeptical as to whether this could handle the amps from starting a diesel, but so far no issues. What actually goes to my panel is 2 #16 twisted pair wires. The only big wires I have to the panel are for load distribution. I don't have any good shots right now (Out of the zillion I shot during the rewire....go figure.) I 'll take some shots when I am down at the boat this weekend. I really like your custom panel....differant. Mickey - Nice job on yours as well.

Original - Long gone now.


Presnt set up

tony not only is it used to prevent fires it is a real common sense approach.each electronic device on the bridge is protected two feet away .i don`t have to go in the v-berth to see why the chart plotter is not getting power.the electronic panel is isolated ground running thru a surge protection breaker and thru isolation blocks .( trying my best not to be taken out by lightning offshore).again this is not for everyone i just happen to have the bertram in a heated tent in the winter and put time into it.the battery cables are 4/0 sterling silver coated wire with 15 ton crimped terminals and shrink tubed.to and from battery switch to starter motor. like i said the human eye cannot pick up the harmonic balancer turning on start.the cummins start on less than 1/4 turn .this is due to combining all the right tricks.here is the distribution center and isolation blocks .from here the power goes to the 4 individual panels by way of the inline circuit breakers to each.the distribution center is under bench in salon warm and dry at all times.

Bob

Really nice. Since I am coming down the home stretch of my repower and I am at the wiring hook up stage, I find all this really helpfull. I don't think I will ever get to your level of detail but I am trying get the most out of what I have and to make it all work better while creating the type of protection I need.

By the way, if any of us get hit by lightning offshore, loosing some of our electronics will be the least of our worries.