Polishing aluminum anodizing with a nylon American flag

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Joef
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Polishing aluminum anodizing with a nylon American flag

Post by Joef »

Men:

My boat has Rupp outriggers that are anodized black. Over the last 17yrs, the anodizing has faded and created a somewhat "blotchy" looking greyish hase on them. I've had them off, cleaned them up really nice, sprayed with CX, and looked great till the CX wore off...i then tried Woody Wax with about the same result. I guy at my marina said anodizing can't be polished...that i should try stripping and painting them.

Last Spring i relocated "Old Glory" to a alum. pipe up in the tower. Over the summer, it waved in the breeze and rubbed against the black outriggers over a 12" section. The results were astounding...the flag had polished the anodizing to a lustous shiny black that was shiny enough to see your reflection.

...so - ...apparently, you can polish anodizing. But, i'm wondering how i might replicate what the flag did with some sort of polishing compound and buffer.

Ideas?

joe
scooter28

Post by scooter28 »

i don'tknow the exact procedure for polishing anodizing but i can tell you be careful. just like the clear coat on your car anodizing creates a coating. so when you polish it you are basically removing the top layer. Only problem is while anodizing is usually pretty tough its usually only .003-.005 thick. So you may want to be careful what you use and how much you do it cuz while dull anodize doesnt look great its better than corroding alum.
jspiezio
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Post by jspiezio »

Joef- Anodize does two things when applied. Anodize adds a layer of protective oxidation coating above the material. But, at the same time it actually etches away the surface it is being applied to. The resultant anodize thus is pretty deep in the material and probably is not being removed with the polish. However, the black coloring you see is achieved by dying the porous surface of the finished anodize product. Practically any color can be applied to the anodize.

I am not sure, but you may be able to re-dye and re-seal the anodize, assuming that it is still on the rigger, just not visible to you. I will talk to a couple of my suppliers on Tuesday and get some suggestions on how to proceed. Then I'll put them on here for you. If they're agreeable I'll PM there numbers to you, but I need to check first since they have been pretty busy lately.

If you do polish through the anodize you may need to apply alodine to protect the surface of the aluminum from corrosion.
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

Joe, whats the flag made of? Nylon, Polyester?
I'd look for a buffing/polishing wheel made of the same material. On second thought, that may be too abrasive.

Maybe just try some cotton, sisal, or cotton flannel wheels...
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
jspiezio
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Post by jspiezio »

oef- sorry, I had a few G&Ts and misread. I thought that you said the black was off in spots. I think Buju is heading in the right direction with his advice.
Craig Mac
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Post by Craig Mac »

i have a rail that has turned milky --looking for best way to bring it back---was thinking of using one of the polishing balls that Mothers sells for auto rims--but not sure the best product to use with it.
Joef
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flag

Post by Joef »

Thanks guys. ...i assume the flag is made of nylon...was really unbelievable how good a job it did at polishing the riggers...i think i will try to find a wheel made of nylon and try it in an inconspicuous spot.

This is really an oddity in boating...normally when something is worn or leaking or needs repair, it NEVER gets better by itself...but in this case...my boat was actaully polsihing itself while i was away. now, if i could teach the Cat engines to change their own oil!

Thanks for your thoughts...will et you know how it goes.

Joe
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

All of the nylon wheels I've seen are pretty abrasive Joe... Careful.

I was trying to think of a way one could make their own 'nylon flag' polishing wheel...
Take your old nylon flags ( 'Q' flag, courtesy flag, release flag, cocktail flag, but not old glory ) and cut em into strips about 2"x 5". Then I was thinking to attach them all to a arbor of sorts to use on a hi speed drill. But the attachment has got me stumped. Epoxy? Superglue?
Maybe a wooden arbor so each strip could be stapled and epoxied? Or other means of mechanical & chemical bond?
Maybe a metal arbor (old, dull hole saw) with holes drilled @ equal distance. Attach small grommets at the base of ea. strip and fasten w/ small sheet metal screws????
I dunno...
The conch in me knows it can be done :) give it a shot.
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
Joef
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flag-polisher

Post by Joef »

Good idea...i'll try attaching some strips of my old, goofy "pirate flag" to a wooden arbor - i'll figure out something.
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Whats probably happened is the flag removed the anodizing and polished the bare aluminum.

Aluminum oxide is pulled out of the surface during anodizing and then becomes aluminum hydrate that is extremely hard.

But it can be removed thru buffing and polishing compounds. I've done it many times on anodized cycle parts that turned color. The problem after that is even though the aluminum is bright again, theres no more protection except by wax or other product and can be a handfull to keep bright.

The only choice is getting the stuff reanodized.
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Carl
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Post by Carl »

Once buffed you may get a season or so with a clear topcoat. Holds up a bit better then wax.
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Buju
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Post by Buju »

Whats probably happened is the flag removed the anodizing and polished the bare aluminum.
But he says it's still black...
...the flag had polished the anodizing to a lustous shiny black that was shiny enough to see your reflection.
... and the pigment is in the anodizing correct?

is it possible that the dull grayish haze is simply mineral/sediment/chemical deposits from sea water, rain, & airborn particulate, which have accumulated to form a film over the years? And the soft 'buffing' of the flag in the breeze was coincidently just right to remove it, or gloss it up?
I don't know what the world may want,
But a good stiff drink it surely dont,
Think I'll go and fix myself...a tall one.
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Your correct, missed the black, Nevermind.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Keep it rubbed down with CorrosionX after polishing? What about Rejex?
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jspiezio
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Post by jspiezio »

Checked with a specialist. He says short of black powder coat or paint, the only thing to do is polish it. You can wet sand using ultra-fine crocus cloth or ultra-fine scothbrite, maybe followed by simoniz or glass wax and then polish. But, at some point the black dye will be gone. Then the option is to strip and reanodize.
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jackryan
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Post by jackryan »

I was wondering if it would be possible to take a pair of black outriggers and change the color, say to silver?

JR
jspiezio
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Post by jspiezio »

jackryan wrote:I was wondering if it would be possible to take a pair of black outriggers and change the color, say to silver?

JR
Jack, you can absolutely change the color. The existing anodize must be stripped, and then the parts are re-anodized, colored, then sealed. My guy (Mike Duffy) said once the anodize is sealed you can not change or reapply the color without stripping.

Stripping it is not a big deal or difficult to do. They do it in the tank. Each time you do this you reduce the wall thickness of the tube by about .002" to .003".
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In Memory Walter K
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Post by In Memory Walter K »

One would think the cost of doing all that might be close to the cost of buying a new pair. Walter
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jackryan
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Post by jackryan »

jspiezio,

Thanks for the reply. Walter, that's kind of what I was thinking too. I was just curious because I've seen several sets of black outriggers on e-bay lately.

JR
jspiezio
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Post by jspiezio »

Walter/jryan

If you are curious I can ask what the cost would be. I don't really think the lot charge would be more than a $250-$300. They just put the poles in strip then re-anodize. No certifications or anything, which is what drives the cost. The key is finding a place that has tanks long enough for your poles. I know of two here in NY that I use on a daily basis, but they are all around the country.
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