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I spoke with another Bertram (B35) owner recently, and his boat has the same sad rubrail setup my boat has: the standard Bertram painted aluminum rub rail, but with a stainless steel cap rail. His was a bit older than mine so it looked a bit worse, but we both have the same problem, that the stainless attached to the aluminum is causing the aluminum underneath to get eaten away. Fast.

I've struggled trying to figure out what to do about this. I'd like to replace it all with new vinyl rails, but on my boat (B33) the back side of most of the thru-bolts, which are installed at about 4 feet on center, are difficult or impossible to get at. I don't feel great about cutting them out and then having just tapping screws holding the two major halves of the boat together.

I've read about Capt. Pat's detailed aluminum rub rail painting schedule, and have thought about removing the stainless cap rails, then patching and painting the aluminum. Problem with that is what to patch all the pits with, that will hold up to a good brush with a pile on a cross-current docking day. Best I have come up with is that JB Weld stuff, and am not sure it's such a hot idea.

Anyway, this guy I met with the same problem told me of a solution he has seen done, and said that it worked well: remove the stainless, and patch the pits in the aluminum with epoxy (I'd probably use the JB Weld epoxy). Then sand, paint and caulk the aluminum any way you want. Then re-install new stainless cap rails on top, and here's the kicker: use scraps of eisenglass as a gasket between the two, and tef-gel on the screws. After installation, take a razor knife to trim away the excess eisenglass. The pits are all covered with the new stainless, so the patches should not get worked out. The stainless would be isolated from causing galvanic corrosion of the aluminum by the eisenglass, and there should only be a minimal (or no) connection through the tef-gel'ed screws. The thin clear eisenglass gasket shouldn't take away from any of the looks.

This is the first solution to this problem I've heard that I like. What do you guys think? Anybody here ever tried or heard about this?

Sean,

It works great... I've done it and learned the trick from a Palm Beach marine painter. JB Weld is an excellent epoxy for repairs on metal, especially aluminum. TefGel is right along side with CX as a silver bullet. Bob Merganthaller invented TefGel specifically for isolating SS from aluminum.

Just be sure to clean and properly acid etch the aluminum with Alumiprep & prime with anti-corrosive, (yellow), Awlgrip 545.

While you're at it, it'd be wise to scrape a grove between the fiberglass and aluminum guard rail before you acid wash. Do both sides of the rail, top & bottom. Acid wash and then fill the groves tightly with the JB weld. This will help keep any corrosion from creeping under your paint from the inside of the rail.

Use the heaviest Eisenglass you can get and be careful not to cut into the paint when trimming. If you have a spot where water drains from the deck and leaves black stripes down the hull, leave a couple of inches of the Eisenglass hanging down in that area. Water will drip from the Eisenglass without running down the hull.

Br,

Patrick

Thanks for the advice Skipper, it is always appreciated.

Another Q: I'm not getting a picture in my head about that groove you're talking about. Do you mean that I should score the fiberglass just next to the rail above and below the rubrail, and then fill the resulting gap with epoxy? Or do you mean to score the aluminum? (or both at their intersection?) Also, how deep a gap?

Sean,

Score into both the aluminium and fiberglass leaving a gap about 1/8" deep & 3/16" wide. The best tool is an old fashioned "church key" type can opener. Use a fike or grinder to get razor sharp edges. You can also use the same technique at the butt joints...

There will be plenty of areas where the guard rail isn't tight against the fiberglass. Just sand those spots good with 80 grit.

Br,

Patrick

I don't mean to offend anyone here but I can't see this as any type of long lasting solution...the fasteners which hold the rub rail are stainless. Isolating the stainless rub rail trim alone will not fix the problem. Best to just replace it.

Best to just replace it.

No question about it... But it's not the only nor the least expensive route. The key to refurbishing and painting the original guard rail all comes down to prep and attention to detail, proceeded by a good understanding of how aluminum oxidizes, how to neutralize it, & how to maximize the longevity of the painted finish.

The necessary epoxy, Awlprep, alodine, & associated supplies are a fraction of the cost of the PVC replacement rail. Between the two ways, labor will be about the same. So for a DIY project it is a viable option with good life expectancy if done well.

Br,

Patrick

I don't mean to offend anyone here but I can't see this as any type of long lasting solution...the fasteners which hold the rub rail are stainless. Isolating the stainless rub rail trim alone will not fix the problem. Best to just replace it.

That may be true on a B31, but on a B33 I'd have to tear apart half the cabin just to get to the backsides of the thru-bolts to re-install them. I'm not willing to remove them completely and replace with only tapping screws. I'm constantly re-tightening those on my boat everywhere, and don't want that type of fastener holding the two halves of my boat together exclusively. Right or wrong, is just my preference. Besides, I like the solid aluminum rail, and would be happy to maintain and keep it, if I can get it looking halfway decent.

Partick, thanks again for the advice. When it gets a bit cooler down here I'll be diving into this project and will post some pics of the results. Now for the color choice....to paint it white or black....

There are clear plastic washers that are available that you can use for this application. Hatteras used to use them on the last of there aluminum framed boat before going to frameless.
Dipping the screws with the same paint you use on the rail would work, a little time consuming but worth it. I have a 25B, took apart the windshield frame, sandblasted, alidine treated, Awlgrip primer and finish paint, and dipped the screws. Four years later no corrision around the screws.

Keep Smilin