Thanks

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Hyena Love
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Thanks

Post by Hyena Love »

Thanks Guys. I removed all the packing early in the process, and I think one of the causes of this whole mess is too much packing to begin with so that the cap was holding on only a couple threads, at best.

Part of my issue is that the tranny has a portion that hangs out over the flange such that I can't get 4 equally spaced all threads on it. I can get 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock and 6 o'clock, but 8:30 thru 11:30 is blocked. Going to try to use four or five all threads between 12 and 8:30.

I have pulled the threaded "pin" on the coupler. Thats where I was dumping in most of the C-X.

Sounds like getting it back on is going to be a rodeo as well. My teets already hurt from laying on that deck reaching thru the hatch. I probably need like a padded "Bro" to wear during this process.

Thanks again.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

If you are careful (and since you have converted to diesel) heating it with pressure on the allthread would probably break it loose. Wet everything down good in advance and keep the hose handy!
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mike ohlstein
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Re: Thanks

Post by mike ohlstein »

Hyena Love

I probably need like a padded "Bro" to wear during this process.




Don't you mean manziere?
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Bruce
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Post by Bruce »

Install the all thread, then rotate the coupling to make what you can't reach available.
Rotate the coupling as you tighten to bring each thread to you.

A little weight training on the upper body will build the pecks to the proper cushion.

Do they make a manziere in a "C" cup?
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Hyena Love
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Bro/Manzier

Post by Hyena Love »

Thanks again.

After spending the afternoon shopping bros/manziers, I regretably can't find any 43 AAA's. We just don't have much in the way of tranny friendly shopping opportunities here in Texas.

Thus, I have gone on the chicken fried steak & cream gravy diet. Plan is to build up the gut and then cantilever the teets out over the hatch opening. As an added benefit, this will also get the piercings up off the deck level and keep them from snagging on the hatch lip.
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AndreF
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Post by AndreF »

Ernest,
Isn't that post for a different board?
I'm not sure but indecision may or may not be my problem.

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Capt. Mike Holmes
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Shaft coupler

Post by Capt. Mike Holmes »

Ernest, since I have basically the same gears - TD 5011A? - _ understand what you mean about not being able to get to all four bolt holes. To put it back in, my yard guy recommends using a prop puller in reverse from the back to "pull" it back in, which does put some pressure on the gear.
"There is nothing quite so satisfying, as simply messing around in boats."
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Hyena Love
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Post by Hyena Love »

Mike, help me understand what you are suggesting.

Prop puller - check.

Mount on front of strut (the edge near the bow)- check

Press the prop/shaft combo into the coupler - OK

Pressure on the gear - OK, I can see that, but it would seem that a decent bit of pressure would also be on the strut, right? Engine/gears held in place, strut held in place, compressive force applied to prop/shaft. Seems like it might rip the strut off the bottom of the hull.

Not that its a bad idea. Far from it. The competing idea is to drop the rudder, slide the shaft back enough so the prop nut hits the bulkhead of my slip (with a section of pipe over the end of the shaft/prop nut) and then apply some force (wood block and small sledge) to gently pound the coupler on the end of the shaft. Everything covered in that slimey snot anti-sieze from Pat's buddy (Super Tough Gel?).

I do have a spare coupler. Don't know whether it has the same key way machined in it. Hope so, but you know the crew I was dealing with down there.

Guess its kinda like fast food. Tastes great, but one does not want to know how they actually make it.

All this for a freaking stripped spud.

Thanks.
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Capt. Mike Holmes
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Shafted

Post by Capt. Mike Holmes »

I think the hope is that they go back on easier than they come off. I put mine on, originally, and don't remember them being all that bad, just tapped them down, then i think tapped on the end of the shaft to seat them further. Tapped, not whacked. They are sort of fused to the shafts now, it seems.
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Hyena Love
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Post by Hyena Love »

Thanks Mike.

Looks kinda like I have a different key way on the spare coupler. The key way runs the length of the coupler on the spaer, while the ones on the boat have a key way that terminates inside the coupler (as I recall).

Should be an interesting weekend. Thank goodness for this "cold front."
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Capt. Mike Holmes
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Keywaya

Post by Capt. Mike Holmes »

I think mine also run the whole length of the coupler, helps to get something like CX in there to loosen them. I'd run up and give you personal advise this weekend, but we'll probably be busy tying up loose ends on the house rebuild. Maybe I can sneak off and mess with my boat a little. My retirement date from work is officially Sept. 29, after that I have to start fishing - and looking for customers.
"There is nothing quite so satisfying, as simply messing around in boats."
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