Props and stuffing box

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Mar 25th, '08, 21:14

Looking for some advice;
Props;
Have tried to pull my props with no luck. Built a prop puller out of an automotive harmonic balencer puller. Put enough tension to bend the bolts and collar I made. Tried heat....first baby stuff (propane torch), then an oxi-acetelyne blow torch used gingerly so as to not wreck the cutlass bearing. I am running out of ideas. before I get real medieval with the prop does any one have any tips. My next idea is a hydralic wedge jack (4 ton) to assit my puller, but to be honest, I can' t belive the thing has not budged yet given the force on it already just using the screw force from the harmonic balencer puller. Having riped every machine apart you can imagine(tractors,trucks, old cars,motorcycles)....I am looking at my first potential defeat in 40 years of wrenching. I am thinking I must be missing some trick as this can't be this hard. Help.

Stuffing box packing;
Anybondy know what size packing I should use. I have the std drive train from when the boat was new from 1972. 1 3/8 shafts, into what I beleive are OEM stuffing boxes. want to go with that gore tex GFO materal from Pacific trading that everyone seems to like.

Harry Babb · Post by **Harry Babb** » Mar 25th, '08, 21:45

Giff
Get your accetlyene torch back out and get serious with it. Gingerly won't quite get it.

You need to use a Rose Bud or a large burning tip to apply as much heat as possible to the hub really really quick.

The problem with Gingerly is that the bronze blades are conducting the heat away from the hub before it can expand enough to release it from the shaft.

Turn up the heat if the puller is not doing the trick..........you may even have to smack the end of the puller bolt with a hammer to jar the prop loose

Harry

Tony Meola · Post by **Tony Meola** » Mar 25th, '08, 22:01

Giff

Packing is 1/4 inch. Harry's right, heat up that hub. There are times I really bang on my prop puller. Get the pressure on it then heat the thing up. If it doesn't pop, then if you have a spot on the puller to hit it with a hammer, give it a good shot with a 5lb hammer while its hot. By the way, don't forget to leave the nut on there real loose, or that prop will sail across the marina. Tony

Ironman · Post by **Ironman** » Mar 25th, '08, 22:44

Giff: I had to get a little medieval with mine recently... Get you a stone mason mash hammer,& that torch...
ALSO They got a tool.. Looks like an elongated Nut with a handle to hammer on.Screws on the shaft ,& you beat on it.
Wayne..

Face · Post by **Face** » Mar 25th, '08, 23:00

Put a puller on it, tighten up, then heat. Should pop off, maybe this is how you tried...

RussP · Post by **RussP** » Mar 26th, '08, 04:10

Make sure you heat it on the key!!!
RussP

Buju · Post by **Buju** » Mar 26th, '08, 07:21

Come on guys... just a dab of CX should get 'er done.... :)

scot · Post by **scot** » Mar 26th, '08, 09:50

Giff,

In addition to everything stated, I suggest a real HD prop puller. My experience with balancer pullers, etc is that the steel they are made of is fairly soft and it's difficult to get enough load on the wheel before the puller starts bending. The prop puller focuses the force....load it up, heat it and pop the end bolt with a 5# maul.

JP Dalik · Post by **JP Dalik** » Mar 26th, '08, 12:10

If it all goes bad just do what the divers up here do.
Little C4 and boom the wheels jump right off every time.

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Mar 26th, '08, 20:07

All-

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to sow down a couple of bowls of Wheaties and get serious with it on Saturday morning. I just wasn't so sure on the amount of heat....and heed the advice to get it hot quick so that I get the differntial expansion I am looking for.

Thanks agin for the replies.

Giff

MikeD@Lightningshack · Post by **MikeD@Lightningshack** » Mar 26th, '08, 20:28

If you are using a Pulley or wheel puller arrangement, it will it not give you anymore mechanical advantage then attainable from the helical thread. This may not be enough.

There are prop pullers on the market that can give you a lot more. Appoximatly 10 times what the screw can do. These pullers position your screw 10" from the prop which adds a fulcrum to your helical thread advantage.

Also remember that thread efficiency is a function of friction. Good lubrication with Moly-B based lubricant product can quadruple the output of a dry metal on metal thread.

If you don't have a puller similar to the one shown in this picture, you may want to reconsider the Harmonic balancer tool, and borrow or buy one of these.

From what I've read this is the silver bullet you are missing. I hope you can find one, if you were in NJ you could borrow mine.

I believe I purchased mine here:
http://www.ram-mount.com/propull/propul ... htm#ppf103

Good Luck,
Mike Dolan
www.lightningshack.com

Charlie · Post by **Charlie** » Mar 27th, '08, 18:03

Are you pulling the wheels to them reconded? If so many prop shops around will lend you a real wheel puller. I have prop puller and have never found a wheel that would not yield. I have never had to bang or heat. Check out you local prop shops. Or spring for a puller. Mine is set-up for three blade wheels. It is three bolts a thing that looks like a "C" that goes behind the prop hub and a front plate that goes over the shaft. Crank down on the bolts and "BANG".
Good luck

gplume · Post by **gplume** » Apr 6th, '08, 19:36

Post script;

Thanks all again;

Been travelin for work so have not had a chance to log on. The real prop puller worked like a charm. Got my boat at a pretty decent yard in that the yard owner is ok with the DYIer and really helpful. He loaned me his prop puller similar to the picture posted. Pop....in about 2 minutes worth of work. I'm sold, mechanical advantage is the way to go!

Carl · Post by **Carl** » Apr 7th, '08, 07:22

The right tool for the right job.

I'm sure the prop puller would be of much help pulling the harmonic balancer either.

bertram31.com

Props and stuffing box

Props and stuffing box

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