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cocpit panels

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 18:19
by Frank Hermann
i am in the process of trying to remove the panels in the cockpit so I can refinish them with a new coat of paint. The problem is that I was able to get the side ones off, but am not able to figure out how to get the back one off.It appears that the teak trim on the bottom is being held on from the underside, but I can't seem to figure out how to get to it.Any clues? or help would be greatly apprecrated-- is there service or construction book available from the Bertram archives?
Thanks for your help
Frank

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 19:36
by CaptPatrick
Frank,

The teak piece at the bottom is just a channel the the panel rests into. It's part of the lower teak assembly & doesn't get removed. Remove the screws at the transom corners & the screws up under the coaming & the panel will lift up & out.

Br,

Patrick

Cockpit Panels

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 19:43
by Pete Fallon
The transom panel is held in place on both port and starboard sides with an L shaped oak backing board( side panels screwed into also), remove all the screws into this board( backing board usually falls right off) and then lift the entire panel straight upward then pull toward you . The teak on the vertical has a lip about 1/2" that the transom panel sits down into, almost a pressure fit.
Teak trim board that runs across the transom at deck level stays in place and was screwed from the bottom side upward thru the plywood and about 5 wooden cleats attach the vertical teak trim. That's how my 1961 was put together. You have to take the cockpit cleats off, so the panel has clearance to come toward you. A couple of flat 2" wide pry bars help. Slow and easy, It's a 2 person job, the older boats had formica facing over the plywood panels that breaks very easy if you try and force it out.
If you have to make new panels, use PVC foam board, or if you know a good glass guy have him lay-up gel coated core mat panels. Just remember that the transom panel is longer than the side panels, over 8' long. Good Luck!

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 19:43
by Frank Hermann
Thanks Patric, now that you helped me with that problem, how do I get the lower teak piece off to clean it up and do some repairs to the lip that holds the cocpit along the rear edge

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 20:24
by CaptPatrick
Frank,

The teak assembly is screwed down to the sub-shelf with #8 screws that are bunged over. Look closely and you will find the bungs. Carefully drill or cut out the bungs without damaging the countersink hole to expose the screw heads. You can make new bungs using a bung cutter available at most hardware stores, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Or you can buy pre-made bungs from a marine supply. Use epoxy to re-install them.

If you don't find bungs, then like Pete said, they may be screwed in from below the sub-shelf...

Br,

Patrick

Posted: Feb 8th, '08, 20:30
by Tony Meola
Frank

On my 75 the teak trim was screwed in from the bottom. A real pain to get out. As they said, the rear pannel shoudl just lift out after you get all the screws out from under the gunnel. You should be able to sneak it past the cleats without the pry bar. Tony

cockpit panels

Posted: Feb 9th, '08, 11:36
by Frank Hermann
thanks for all of your great advice. i;ll give it a try as soon as the weather breaks
Frank