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changing oils in cummins
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 14:11
by bob lico
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 17:31
by Ironman
Good advice Bob...
Ill be changing my gear oil soon.Is the delo 400 ok? If not ,Ill change to Rotella..But thats what Ive been using..
Im changing out batts today(in the first rainstorm in many months)
Good lookin Bertram heir. LOL.
Wayne
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 18:40
by bob lico
ironman i am no authority on oil they are both just as good. at L.I.T. they have a small dyno they use to test marine gears (this is there only business )after watching the testing you would never put multi weight (whip cream!!!)in your marine gears.trust me on this one.
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 21:56
by STeveZ
I have the engine oil removal hoses on my 210's and they make oil changes a breeze!
I like the idea for the ZF's too but what about the filter, isn't it kind of a mesh basket located behind the drain plug? Would you sacrifice easy access to the filter? Does it matter if you do? (I had my fluid changed but I don't think they broke any paint, just inserted a hose in the fill hole, pumped it out and refilled it.)
I may be pulling my starboard side engine rebuilding that transmission so this would be a convenient time to attach a hose for oil change....
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 22:31
by bob lico
looking at the zf220-a gears from the output shaft the oil drain is on the bottom right side .the left side (same size plug as the oil drain)is for the insertion of a optional oil temperature senting unit.just above this plug to the left and slightly above the outputshaft is the location of the drive oil pump.this is the unit that sticks out from the rear of the gears.there is a 17mm plug that is on the bottom of the pump facing you,remove this plug every 200 hours or once a year .inside is a mesh basket clean it and apply vasaline to the rubber o-ring on the plug and reinstall.the plug is alluminum don`t get crazy even better use 1/4" drive rachet with adapter to 3/8" drive than sockett -just snug thats all-------------bob
Posted: Nov 30th, '07, 22:41
by bob lico
steve z if the mechanic sucks the oil out of the dipstick tube tell don`t bother he missed the whole idea of changing the oil.the damaging particles fallinto that plug at the oil fill by taking the oil out of the dipstick tube he is just jerking you off! the corrosion enters thru the vent located on the top right side of the gears and conbine with material from the clutch plates to delute the 30 weight straight oil.
Posted: Dec 2nd, '07, 18:56
by In Memory of Vicroy
My Cummins 6BTA 250s (CPL 1247) built in Nov. 1989, came with the optional manual oil pump out option, a little push-pull pump mounted on the outboard side of each engine.....there is a HD hyd-type hose that goes from one of the two oil pan drain plugs to the manual pump....it would take half a day to pump it out using this this rig, but the good news is it's a flapper pump and the output spigot is exactly 1/2" OD, so 1/2" heater hose slips right over it. I use a Jabsco 1/2 HP flexible impeller pump with about 10' of 1/2" heater hose on the suction and output sides to change the oil....slip the suction side on the manual pump spigot (I use a hose clamp for good suction), put the output hose in a 5 gal. jerry can and fire the pump up....takes about 4 or 5 min. to pump the 15 qts. out....have the same sort of oil pan hose with a cap on top for the genset....the Phasors have a little ball valve type valve where the hose goes into the oil pan.....hard to see and harder to turn, but you learn by mistakes....
As far as the gears, my ZF IRM 220A manuals say the oil change interval is 1,000 hours.....odds are you will bust a gear cooler hose or one of those little chickens**t steel pipes on the back and it will change itself before you reach 1,000 hours.....remember, the enemy of good is better.
Do not use multi-grade motor oil in the ZF 220s...use a good SAE 30 W, getting sort of hard to find tho in good brands. I use Shell Rotella-T 15-40 in the Cummins and have almost zero oil use up to about 120 hours on a change, and I'm high hour by rec. standards, say about 2,500.
UV
Posted: Dec 3rd, '07, 13:42
by Mikey
Vic,
Changing the "little chicken s**t pipes on the back of my ZF's now. Since I finally got the clue on doing it I'm doing both. Insurance.
Posted: Dec 3rd, '07, 14:51
by In Memory of Vicroy
After 2,000+ hours, about the only issue on the Zf's is those two little pipes.....put zinc paint on the new ones and keep 'em doused with HD CX.
UV
Posted: Dec 3rd, '07, 15:42
by Mikey
Vic,
Bet your butt I will. I just got a call from the company from whom I ordered the new pipes to tell me that I got the last three! I need four, of course. Now what? Does that mean we are screwed or does it mean I need a new distributor? If they are discontinued we should contact Tony. Here's a new profit center for him.
DISCONTINUED!?!?!?! Drat!
Posted: Dec 3rd, '07, 15:57
by In Memory of Vicroy
Get with Tony....if he can't get them, I have a new B&H and can get you a list of ZF parts places...they still make the 220A and the last new one I saw at the FLL show still had the double-trouble pipes, so they still make them.
I thought hard about having a machine shop fabricate some from stainless, but the HD CX keeps the carbon steel ones going ok.
UV
Posted: Dec 3rd, '07, 20:14
by Rawleigh
Mikey: Paint them with 3 coats of POR15 and forget about them!!
Posted: Dec 4th, '07, 10:28
by Mikey
Rawleigh,
Hope you have a small cask of that special elixar. I need two tablespoons.
Vic,
Have another source that I will try. If it fails, you're on.
Tanks, Spanky.
Posted: Dec 4th, '07, 11:05
by Rawleigh
No problem!!