stuffing boxes

The Main Sand Box for bertram31.com

Moderators: CaptPatrick, mike ohlstein, Bruce

Post Reply
davidms
Posts: 64
Joined: Sep 1st, '07, 11:38
Location: Shelter Island, NY

stuffing boxes

Post by davidms »

I have a leak in one of my stuffing boxes. I can either fix the traditional packing or replace it with the dripless version. Anybody have a preference?

Davidms
User avatar
CaptPatrick
Founder/Admin
Posts: 4161
Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com

Post by CaptPatrick »

David,

If you do decide to go over to dripless, ONLY go with the PYI-PSS system. Your shafts also have to be in excellent shape in the area of the seal, so shifting over could also mean new shafts...

Br,

Patrick
User avatar
Harry Babb
Senior Member
Posts: 2354
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 21:45
Location: Fairhope Al
Contact:

Post by Harry Babb »

Pat
What is it that you like about the PYI PSS shaft seal system over other manufacturers of shaf seal systems?????

I am definetly going to install your Glassed Shaft Logs and I am considering the Mechanical seals........If I keep my gas genset I most likely will install shaft seals

I do not know much about the different brands of seals.

Harry
hb
User avatar
CaptPatrick
Founder/Admin
Posts: 4161
Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com

Post by CaptPatrick »

Harry,

The PSS seals are the best design on the market. They work as designed with no surprises, they're easy to install, maintain and adjust. One of the other major manufacturers, (name synonymous with powerful), has had numerous near catastrophic failures, 2 that I know of personally.

I've never heard a bad word about PSS...

Br,

Patrick
User avatar
34Hatt
Senior Member
Posts: 275
Joined: Jan 3rd, '07, 11:07
Location: Long Island N.Y
Contact:

Post by 34Hatt »

CaptPatrick wrote:Harry,

The PSS seals are the best design on the market. They work as designed with no surprises, they're easy to install, maintain and adjust. One of the other major manufacturers, (name synonymous with powerful), has had numerous near catastrophic failures, 2 that I know of personally.

I've never heard a bad word about PSS...

Br,

Patrick
Well that makes me fell even better about my choice to go with the PSS. I put them in two years ago during the repower. Must say like Capt Pat said simple straight foward. Dripless all seem to get put into the same bucket but they are all different and I could not find a PSS that failed.
Dan
1967 Hatteras
34C

EOTL II Rebuild Web Page
User avatar
Carl
Senior Member
Posts: 5971
Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 06:45
Location: Staten Island NY

Post by Carl »

I ditto Capt Pats thoughts.

They are also moderatedly priced. I like the simplisity of the product with quality components that are not fragile. I have sold many without a problem, while I have heard of issues with other very expensive brands.

If shafts are marked up or slightly worn you can polish shaft down a bit for a proper seal, also you can relocate the seal area somewhat. Run it by a good marine shop first.

Carl
User avatar
Rawleigh
Senior Member
Posts: 3435
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 08:30
Location: Irvington, VA

Post by Rawleigh »

Harry there is no "lip" seal in the PSS system. It is a "face" seal with carbon "doughnut" that attaches to the rubber bellows rubbing on the flat face of a stainless shaft collar. They just polish each other rather than creating real wear. The rubber bellow is the only real consumable item. I've had mine installed for 6 years and I love them - zero maintenance other than checking the tension on the bellow occasionally and burping them after launch. The only part that touches the shaft is the stainless collar which has o-rings inside it. It is fastened to the shaft with double locked set screws. Nothing rubs on the shaft. If your shaft has significant wear in the area where the shaft collar goes it could be a problem, but the bellow is long enough to allow for some positional adjustment. The bellows must preload the carbon face seal, but that is the only adjustment. It does need a cooling water bleed from your engine.

I highly recommend them. I keep my boat in a boathouse over the winter and in the spring I brush and vacuum the dry bilge!!

http://www.shaftseal.com/
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
User avatar
capy
Senior Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Jul 6th, '06, 12:01

Post by capy »

I put this stuff in 3-4 years ago from western pacific trading, have'nt adjusted the stuffing boxes since...

It works really well, and a lot cheaper than new stuffing boxes or seals.


Dripless Moldable Packing
For up to 1-1/2" shafts
Includes 1 oz. shaft lubricant

Item #: 303726
Manufacturer: WESTERN PACIFIC TRADING
Model #: 10146
Shipping Weight: 0.20 Lbs.

Our Price: $64.99

Drip-Less Packing is a unique, clay-like material that molds to the inside of the stuffing box, creating a permanently-lubricated seal.
Internally lubricated with low-friction compounds, it requires no water for lubrication. Properly installed, it completely seals off the shaft log to outside water.
Unlike average flax packing which breaks down due to heat and contact with water, Drip-Less Packing wears slowly and lasts several seasons.

* The kit includes enough packing to fit up to a 1-1/2" diameter shaft
* Comes with a 1-oz. tube of Syn-Tef shaft lubricant
* One package of conventional square braid packing is required to act as a retainer for the Drip-Less packing in the stuffing box
* Extra flax packing is not included in the kit
* Not suitable for boats with extremely fast shaft rotation
* To determine if your shaft rotation exceeds the limitations of this product, use the following formula:
Shaft size x 3 x Max. Shaft RPM (not engine RPM) ÷ 12 = Max. FPM Max FPM should not exceed 900



http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=569190
User avatar
Sean B
Senior Member
Posts: 411
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 08:03
Location: Melbourne, Florida

Post by Sean B »

There is also the Goretex aka GFO Packing that works really well with traditional stuffing boxes.

A word to the wise about that stuff though: don't get any Corrosion-X anywhere near your stuffing box, or it'll seep its way into the GFO. Then at the interface between the GFO and the shaft, the GFO will glaze over and leak. The only fix is to replace the packing.

I learned that one the hard way. I didn't even intend to get the CX on the shaft. I was fogging the engines and suppose I accidentally got some on the shaft. I sent a pic of the fried packing to the Gortex guys, and they said it looked like classic case of oil-contamination of the GFO, which it does not tolerate. Now I tape a rag over the entire shaft before spraying the engine with oil.

Other than that little weakness, the GFO is great stuff.
User avatar
Brewster Minton
Senior Member
Posts: 1795
Joined: Jun 30th, '06, 07:44
Location: Hampton Bays NY
Contact:

Post by Brewster Minton »

go pss if you can with your shafts
User avatar
Kevin
Senior Member
Posts: 1069
Joined: Jul 2nd, '06, 19:29
Location: Just north of South Florida

Post by Kevin »

Have them in mine. No complaints. 150 hours on them this year and never touched them.
User avatar
Charlie J
Senior Member
Posts: 2207
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:14
Location: freeport n.y

Post by Charlie J »

i have the pss and have had no proplem with them
User avatar
Charlie J
Senior Member
Posts: 2207
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:14
Location: freeport n.y

Post by Charlie J »

kevin
1600 hrs on mine, thats it i probably just jinx my self
User avatar
Kevin
Senior Member
Posts: 1069
Joined: Jul 2nd, '06, 19:29
Location: Just north of South Florida

Post by Kevin »

Thats a lotta hours. How many years did that take you? If that was one year you and I need to talk about my time management!
User avatar
Charlie J
Senior Member
Posts: 2207
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 09:14
Location: freeport n.y

Post by Charlie J »

these yanmars are just being broken in, bought the boat with 162 hrs on the engines, ive had the boat for 6 years
tds8268
Posts: 89
Joined: Nov 15th, '06, 11:08
Location: Ocean City MD
Contact:

Post by tds8268 »

Anyone found the best price for these, I am just about sick of messin with packing. Can you install these correctly doing it by yourself or should you have someone in the know do it instead.

Dan
User avatar
CaptPatrick
Founder/Admin
Posts: 4161
Joined: Jun 7th, '06, 14:25
Location: 834 Scott Dr., LLANO, TX 78643 - 325.248.0809 bertram31@bertram31.com

Post by CaptPatrick »

Dan,

You might be able to Google up a price that's a little less than buying from the factory... But you need to at least talk to the factory and be sure of the exact model that you need, (dependant on shaft & log size).

As to installation; if you can follow directions well, pay close attention to detail, and fully understand the theory & application of the seals then you'd have no problem installing them youself.

Br,

Patrick
User avatar
RussP
Senior Member
Posts: 260
Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 15:51
Location: Jensen Beach Fl
Contact:

Post by RussP »

I've installed dozens of the PSS dripless seals and the only failure I've seen happened when a suveyor had the owner change the nylon fitting for bronze. I was called in because the carbon block was leaking and as soon as I touched it it came apart. The warentee was void and the owner went for a rather large yard bill for the haul, replacment seals and instalation.

The bellows puts the Stainless block with the two O rings around 2" in front of the wear area from old style packing glands so you usually don't run into problems useing them on old shafts.

RussP
KAHUNA 1963 Sportfish
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 402 guests