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I am repairing the deck on my 28'. I cut the damage out after turning the deck upside down. I am woried that if the repair is not correct the top skin will be damaged.
The damaged area is across the stern of the deck from 6" to 20" to the bow [around the 3 hatches].
I am ok with marine ply if it will last?
If I wet out the wood and remaining top skin [1 coat of thin epoxy] do I add a coat of thickened epoxy before placing the wood?
Is a weight on the wood ok or do I need clamps .
Is 2 coats of matt ok. What thickness?
What is the minimum that the matt should overlap the old matt? I only have about 2" around the hatches.
Should this all be done in 1 session or should I allow the epoxy & wood to harden then sand and add the matt?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is a project boat and a real learning expierence.

I repaired the rotted out core of my deck hatches per Capt. Patrick's instructions using a mix of Vermiculite and epoxy and it worked great. Use the top skin as a mold and just fill in the void with the vermiculite/epoxy mix. Mix your epoxy, then add vermiculite and stir it in until you get a thick mix where all the vermiculite patricles are wet...then trowel it in, pat it down and let it kick. Grind off smooth, then finish with a mix of epoxy and micro-ballons. I used the very slow hardener with the epoxy and the extra time you have to work it is a plus.

UV

Vicroy, I read Capt's post about the vermiculite. I thought it sounded great and decided to retain that forever [hopefully].
I thought that was for smaller repairs I go into the deck about 20" in areas.
If the vermiculite works for that span, I'm great with it.
And what are the micro balloons? Are they in place of fiberglass matt? What thickness should that meterial be, How do I install it? Where do I get it?
I apologize for so many questions. Hopefully the next time this is asked it will be my turn to give assistance.

I really appreciate the help. Obviously the deck is an important part of the boat and I would hate to screw it up.

I guess it depends on how thick the skin is. On my deck hatches the skin was plenty thick and the balsa core was mostly a filler. I had some areas that were more than 20" around the edges of the hatches. If you are concerned about the strength of the skin, just lay in a few layers of glass then fill over it with the vermiculite.

The micro balloons I used were the West System 410 Microlight fairing filler....it's a real fine plastic powder you mix up with epoxy to peanut butter consistency and use over the vermiculite to create a smooth surface. West Marine carries it.

UV

Vicroy, This is the cockpit sole deck [I think it's called]. The entire deck is 6' x 8' the repair is about 8' across and varies from 6" to 20" it goes in and around the hatch openings. The top skin is only about 1/8" thick. I hope the vermiculite will work it sounds like it will be great to work with.
What do you think?
Thanks again.

You should be fine with the vermiculite "trail mix", but don't try to mix enough to do everything at one... Keep each mixed batch to no more than a gallon container sized batch.

Mix your 2 part epoxy thouroughly before adding the vermiculite. You want the vermiculite to be completely wet out, no dry spots, and about the consistancy of damp mud. The more vermiculite you can mix in, the less thermal reaction & the less shrinkage you'll have. Also, the lighter in weight.

Pack the mix into your voids and screed it off like you're laying concrete. Let it cure overnight & rough sand the surface down. Mix epoxy with any light weight filler & skim the surface for a more cosmetic appearance if wanted. I'd probably even skip that step for the underside of the deck. Only the underside of hatches ever get seen...

1/8" on your top skin is plenty, no need to lay any more mat.

You're going to need a lot of epoxy from the sounds of your repair. West System Epoxy is over priced in my opinion & I use epoxys from a supplier in West Palm Beach, FL. Much better pricing & just as good as West...

They will ship anywhere in the US. Their website is US Composites I'd use the 635 THIN EPOXY SYSTEM with the slow hardner. The gallon kit will yield 1 1/2" gallons of mixed epoxy at around $60 plus shipping. (Non HAZMAT as opposed to polyester.)

Make sure that you deck is laying on a flat surface and somehow locked down around any section that wants to warp.

Call me if you need additional info or moral support...

Br,

Patrick

I'm planning on redoing my cockpit and deck hatches this winter. If you're willing to wait you can learn from my mistakes.

I just want to say thanks for the replies. It was all greatly appreciated.
Vicroy, even thow you're not a 31 bertram owner your still a good guy.
Ed, thanks but I have to do this before the cold sets in. I guess I'm gonna have to learn from my own mistakes.
And to the fiberglass Guru Capt Patrick thank you.

Actually Vic does own a 31.

Yeah, I do indeed own a B31.....glad we could help you on your Hyena Boat deck.

UV

daydreams wrote: Vicroy, even thow you're not a 31 bertram owner your still a good guy.

SNORK.....coffee all over my keyboard.

say what?

oop's I realized that I made a mistake as soon as I posted. I guess that supports the rumor that B31 owners are a different breed. Thanks again.

daydreams, as a senior citizen that has well passed the entry level age of that club ..... how can I say it?

Bertram31 stewards are not just rumored to be on a different level.

We are!


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