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I am getting ready to paint my bottom with the pro-line blister package since I patched all my old thruhulls and added new fiberglass shaft logs and what not. I will be using the 5070 sealer, 5079 primer, 1076-02 bottom paint. Will one coat of the sealer be enough? Any tips on how to apply would be greatly appreciated. Here's a few pics on how the bottom looked like Thanks for your help MikeT

not sure if you have done it since those pictures, but you need to remove ALL the bottom paint, every last bit.

Where the old shaft logs were does not look like it was ground out far enough- again I dont know if it was changed after those pictures were taken.

yea those were old pics of the shaft logs and that patch job. thanks for the heads up on removing all the bottom paint. I thought that was the case but was not sure.

Not sure what sealer/primer but unless keeping it on a trailer or lift you need Barrier coat before the bottom paint such as Interlux Interprotect2000E. You can find it at West Marine.Read carefully the mil thickness REQUIRED and the mil thickness per coat. I believe it is 2-5mils per coat and 10mils required total.which would be at least 2 coats. I suggest 3coats on this step to be safe. This stage is MOST important as it will prevent water absorbing into the glass and causing blisters.With all that elbow grease it took to get where you are now DONT SKIMP or all will be in vain. Troy

I dont know what system he is using, but it sounds like a barrier coat system of another brand.

personally I would just go with the simple 2000E system.

Mike -- hope you don't mind me tacking on a similar Q to your thread.

What manufacturer and type of bottom paint is reccomended after the Interlux 2000 and before the ablative? (I've only seen genaral posts -- looking for specifics so I don't screw it up).
Thanks

Basically any hard, modified epoxy...such as Interlux Fiberglass Bottom Coat.

I have always heard about the "window" which is the time AFTER barrier coat and BEFORE the epoxy bottom paint goes on, but I always lightly sand and wipe down with de-natured alcohol the barrier coat before adding the final coat.

It's a habit after watching a bottom job fall off....that was applied in the "window" and by the book. Easy insurance.

OK Guys,

Here's my way of scheduling a bottom job from square one:

1. Remove all old bottom paint.

2. Make necessary repairs to blisters, closing un-needed through hull holes, etc.

3. Fair with epoxy & high density filler.

4. Minimum two coats of Interlux 2000/2001 barrier coat, (as stated by Troy, 3 coats would be better).

5. First coat of bottom paint should be hard, non-ablative bottom paint, such as Trinidad. Must be applied within the window of opportunity as put forth by the Interlux barrier coat directions. The color of this first coat of bottom paint should be very different than the color you choose for the visual paint. For example, if you're painting for a black bottom, use red as your first hard coat. This will act as an indicator for when your ablative paint is wearing thin, but still leave you with protection until you can re-paint.

You can apply ablative paint over hard paint, but not hard paint over ablative... Once you start painting, each coat needs to go on in fairly rapid succession after the previous coat for molecular bonding. Absolutely no longer than 12 hours between coats, start to finish. Barrier coat to final bottom coat.

Br,

Patrick

capt patrick if money was no object would you prefer awlgrip primer 545 over interlux 2000/2001? i would appreciate your opinon because my interlux 2000 is peeling off in spots taking the bottom paint with it.i just pulled the phoenix today to clean bottom and i put it back in the water with white gelcote showing in spots.not happy over siduation but in the middle of fishing season don`t want to put her up on the hard to correct.

Capt' Pat-

Good advice. I wish I had talked to you about putting the first coat on as a hard paint. For reasons of percieved compatability (partially driven by a call to the Interlux tech line), I went with the same paint for marker and topcoat (Interlux Micron CSC). Hard first coat definately makes more sense.

Barrier - I used 4 coats of Interlux Interprotect 2000, alternating colors so I could see what I was doing. Used the same on rudders and struts after priming with the recomended stuff from Interlux. 4 coats covvered a lot of any fairling inperfections I missed. Last coat is critical to get the bottm paint on before it completely sets. I would think working in Mexico you have a very narrow window to get the fist coat of bottom pain on the Interprotect. Use the thumbnail rule.

Fairing - I used West system with the 407 filler. Not High density, but what was recomended to me by??? (can't remeber now). Seemed to work well. From my surfbaord repair experience, the high density stuff(what I usually use fir that repair) gives a tougher patch but is a little harder to fair. I also had lots of thru hull hles to fill. Use Capt Patricks method for filling the holes. Works well and you' have a hard time finding the holes later even from the inside.

Take your time, and you will get amazing results. The guys that launched me (marina professionals) could not beleive they were looking at a 35 year old bottom.

bob lico wrote:capt patrick if money was no object would you prefer awlgrip primer 545 over interlux 2000/2001? i would appreciate your opinon because my interlux 2000 is peeling off in spots taking the bottom paint with it.i just pulled the phoenix today to clean bottom and i put it back in the water with white gelcote showing in spots.not happy over siduation but in the middle of fishing season don`t want to put her up on the hard to correct.

Bob- 545 is not your answer, unfortunetly something was done wrong when they did your bottom.

lightly sand the spots, put more 2000e, then bottom paint that afternoon.

We do close to a dozen boats a year with the stuff and none of them peel, we also use it over all bottom repairs before applying anti fouling.

we used to use the awlgrip barrier coat system, and 545 was the first step, after that the mixing ratios and window times get too complicated and sanding was also required

the 2000E greatly simplified things. To top it off interlux is going to extend the time between coats where you dont have to sand to MONTHS compared to the 2 weeks they tell you now.

I cant even begin to imagine where they went wrong that it is peeling, was ALL the bottom paint removed and the bottom sanded after it was blasted?

robbie 5 years ago i purchase the boat and gave oyc the go to remove old bottom paint.sant blasted bottom and boat sat 6 months until moisture meter read 0 or close to it in 12 test spots.i can`t say for sure if there was complete sanding.the interlux was apply and i remenber them moving the blocking to paint those spots.after two coats they used petit unexpoxy not the best but thats another story.the boat was on the hard about 4 years after this and than went into the water febuary.nobody has ever touch the boat after that except your paint on hull.