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HI guys. Is sekaflex 292 and 291 basically the same stuff. I am going to use it to install my aluminum framed windows. I am having trouble finding the 292 here in Mexico but the 291 is around.

Mike,

You'll be OK with 291... 292 is stronger. Be sure to get and use the activator & primer for the system. All of your bedding surfaces have to be anaseptically clean. Denatured alcohol is the best pre-cleaner.

Br,

Patrick

Hi Patrick What do you mean by activator and primer. Is there something I should use on the fiberglass part, like some kind of primer. I think the sikaflex is a one part is it not.

thanks agian for your help Mike t

Mike,

On second thought, you really need to find Sika 292.. It's formulated to be thixothropic, whereas the 291 is thinner and will be a bitch to work with on a vertical plane.

The activator is a chemical which better prepares the joining surfaces after alcohol cleaning. The primer is a chemical that enhances the bonding strength.

See: Sikaflex Products & Preparation Guide

Br,

Patrick

Pat: What color does the 292 come in?

Rawleigh,

I believe that 292 only comes in black, which is the best color to ward off the effects of UV rays. Some of the other products, like 291-LOT may also be available in white.

Br,

Patrick

It comes in white. I used it on my rub rail.

ON EDIT

A US distributer.......

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... kaflex+292

How much sikaflex 292 should I get to install a set of side aluminum framed windows. Will a pint of the activator and primer do?
Thanks for your help

Probably need three tubes, so get at least four.

Mike,

A pint of each is all you need... As a mater of fact, you'll have plenty left over for future use. To get the maximum shelf life from the remainder, displace the air in the containers with nitrogen or argon gas, (local welder can help), cap tightly & refigerate until next needed. Don't freeze.

Br,

Patrick

patrick...could you explain how to "displace the air"....i have an old argon bottle and never thought about that...bet it would work on a variety of stuff

Randy,

Argon & nitrogen are heavier than air. Air in a partially empty container, (containing some product that will cure, such as varnishs, paints, & resins), will cause the product to skin over & even eventually harden.

By introducing an inert gas such as nitrogen or argon to displace the O2, the action of air drying is halted. This process is called purging.

With the container lid removed, purge the air at a low pressure for a sufficient time with the inert gas. Re-seal the container. This can be done with a rubber hose connected directly to the gas bottle, but it would be better to use a regulator between the hose & bottle.

Further reduction in premature curing of the product is effected by refrigeration between 40ºF - 50ºF.

Br,

Patrick

Randall: I just hold the can with the lid held open in front of the bottle, give it a good blast staight out of the bottle (not too hard or it will be all over the shop) and drop the lid on it. Maybe I'm not going about it as scientifically as Pat is. When I saw the price they were charging for the little nitrogen bottles at Woodworker's Supply I got the idea to use the tank off of my mig welder. 90+% argon, and the rest is CO2.

Usually 98% Argon, unless welding stainless. Then it's 100%, if I recall correctly.

I found a online place that sells the 292 for 19.22 a tube plus shipping (Jamestown Distributors) Anybody know of a better price. Thanks for your help

That is correct Mike.

www.hamiltonmarine.com $14.99 per tube plus shipping