bertram31.com

Hi Guys, Iam just starting to have my 31B painted with Imron and was wondering how should I go about polishing (waxing) the first time around and what type of wax should I use.
I have used great white on my other boats in the past and works great for the high temps and sun we get here in Cabo.
Since its a brand new paint job is there some type of process I should go through the first time around to get the most out of my paint job?
How often should I wax? I have been told 4 times a year should be okay.
thanks for your help. Mike T

By far I would use Rejex. Truly a superb shine and resits diesel soot sticking. There are plenty of products out there but I have never seen any better than Rejex. It is also excellent for the clear curtains on the bridge! Dave K

The shop that did my Imron said not to wax it for at least a year to let all the solvent evaporate. I waxed it once and it made a mess. The new Imron job last year (courtesy of Katrina) I have not waxed other than put Rejex on the transom. I don't plan to ever wax it. Wax will create black streaks from rain and spray.

UV

I was told NOT to wax it for 2 years. Walter

Mike,

Looks like it's turning out really nice. From what you've been thru you deserve it!

I'll be down mid Oct. if I get a chance I'll give you a shout.

Been painting cars for 26yrs. Through the acrylic enamel w/hardners to urethane to polyurethane. Even painted my dads friends 1965 Bertram w/Imeron topside and PPG Durethane on the sides{POLYURETHANE} I watched this job grow old since they kept the boat for 16+yrs. Cataylized paints shrink as they cure and cure within a couple weeks at most. Paint under a micriscope is slightly porus. Waxing with rejex or a good polymer within a couple days of the job will ensure that that virgin unprotected paint will have a good repelant in the pores to protectet it. Sure great paint such as Imeron and others look great if untouched for sometimes years but that is NO reason to wait till it dies a little to protect it. In the high dollar car buisness with super hard clears and solids like Imeron we ALWAYS wax-rejex-or polymer finish new jobs BEFORE they leave the booth. No ammount of wax will prevent the shrinking or evaporation of solvent process in drying. Remember they evaporate with heat from the cataylist just like resin. If you doubt what i say just wax a nice section of that sweet Bertram paint job on the side of the hull wait a month and compare it to the paint adjacent to it and you will be a believer then. WAX GOOD-----NOTHING,ALMOST GOOD

maybe ill wax the toyota...it needs some protection

Randall,

Hell I'd buff it out good for a couple of hours then put a good waxin on her. Especially that left fender. It'll make a new set of wheels out of her.

Dick

no wax for a long time .use a polymar sealent not wax,,,,it's a polish not a wax

dick...its an old photo.....now every thing below the belt line is gone............but it still runs....sometimes on all 4 cylinders...

Don't worry, that'll buff right out Randall!!