Crusader Crapping Out

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bobozinga
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Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 11:34
Location: Kent Narrows

Crusader Crapping Out

Post by bobozinga »

I really enjoy and appreciate all the info and insight you all provide on this site.

I have an '83 B28 with relatively new (200 hours) 5.7 Crusader Classics (carbureted). On a recent trip, the starboard engine crapped out -- just plain quit -- at displacement speed, about 1900 rpm. No sputtering, just dead quit.

Once I got the boat under control, I shut off the ignition, waited a few seconds, turned it back on, gave some gas, and it fired up again.

To make a long story short, this scenario repeated itself 7 times while we limped back to the dock. Same scenario each time, except as I entered the no-wake zone near the dock, the engine seemed to hold idle OK without any shutdown (good thing, because there was a strong current and lots of traffic).

NOTES:

- Never had a drop of ethanol gas in her
- Fuel/water and fuel separators are clean
- Engine temperature was normal (165) throughout

Nobody will mistake me for a engineer or mechanic, but it sure seems that this problem is electrical, based on the no-sputtering, sudden shut-down.

My first instinct is to try a quick fix: replace the coil. But if that doesn't work, I'm likely to find myself in the same situation on the water again.

Any and all ideas and suggestions are appreciated!

Bob
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Carl
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Post by Carl »

No mechanic here either. But I would check fuel as it is easy and quick to check with carbs, just look and see if your getting fuel when she craps out.

If getting fuel move on to electrical, if not...find out why.

Coil is a quick fix, I believe they tend to get hot when crapping out so maybe check that.

I keep spare ignition parts, so I would pretty much change out one part at a time and see what makes the difference. Think you have it... swap the bad part back and see if problem returns.

It's a crude way to fix things, but it works for me....most of the time.

The Gut says electrical.

Don't forget to check the simple stuff like battery connections. Tach connections all ignition connections for that matter.
IRGuy
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Post by IRGuy »

I was taught.. if the engine slowly dies, or starts and runs badly... it is a fuel problem. If it flat out just dies without warning... it is an electrical problem.

From what you say I wonder if something electrical is loose, vibrates and makes and breaks some connection at high speed, but does not vibrate as much and keeps a connection at lower speeds? Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck!
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

What type of electronic ignition is it? HEI? I would look at the ignition module as well. Actually, the first thing I would do is wait until Bruce chimes in, as he can usually put his finger right on it!
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
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kellysmall
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Location: Pensacola, FL

Post by kellysmall »

I had a loose connection on the high (battery) side of one of my main engine circuit breakers that caused that type of problem once.

-Kel
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capy
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Post by capy »

IRGuy wrote:I was taught.. if the engine slowly dies, or starts and runs badly... it is a fuel problem. If it flat out just dies without warning... it is an electrical problem.

From what you say I wonder if something electrical is loose, vibrates and makes and breaks some connection at high speed, but does not vibrate as much and keeps a connection at lower speeds? Just my 2 cents worth. Good luck!
I've had the exact reverse happen to me...

Engine quit dead from cruise - bad fuel pump

Engine sputtered and back fired under load-bad points
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scot
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Post by scot »

Electrical...

I had a bad coil once that would run all day...and then if I tried to come back to idle...dead. Replaced it with a high vibration MSD Blaster. No more issues.
Scot
1969 Bertram 25 "Roly Poly"
she'll float one of these days.. no really it will :-0
Captn Bruce
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Joined: Jun 29th, '06, 23:18
Location: Woodland Hills, CA

Post by Captn Bruce »

I Have a B28 with Merc 300 HP Horizons had simolar problems about 300 hours ago and it was the electronic modular unit in the distributor.

I hope this helps.
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Rawleigh
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Post by Rawleigh »

Since you have two engines, first swap the coil and see if the problem switches side, then swap the ignition module.
Rawleigh
1966 FBC 31
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John F.
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Post by John F. »

You should be able to take the coil out and have it bench tested. You may be able to tell if its fuel related--look down the carb throat when it happens and hit the throttle/accelerator pump. If its no fuel, it'll look dry. When I had a coil go bad, one time the engine just wouldn't right at all, the other time it ran fine, but you could only start it cold--once hot it wouldn't restart. Good luck.

John F.
bobozinga
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Joined: Jul 5th, '06, 11:34
Location: Kent Narrows

Post by bobozinga »

Guys....thanks for your sage advice. I will check all this out this weekend and report back.
Mitch
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Location: Falmouth, Mass.

Post by Mitch »

Check the harness plug in the back of the engine. where the engine harness plugs to the gauge harness the square plug corrodes from the inside. Good luck, Mitch
Mitch
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