bertram31.com

I bought this Bahia Mar earlier this year and had it transported from Tx. This boat has been on the hard since the mid 90's from what I can tell. Scot, on this board, has lamented its neglect in several posts from the past. Apparently, it has sat uncovered in various states of neglect as an ongoing project. It's now on the central coast of California.



Here's a photo for Tony M... yes, that's a growing plant in the bilge, . There was a frog and cockroach, too. A big cockroach!



Yeah, it's pretty bad off. I've been working on rebuilding an old bow shed to cover her up. I'm trying to do most of the tear down and grinding of fiberglass before I enclose the bow shed with shrink wrap.




Yeah, I've got a long road ahead of me....

Love the factory hardtop

You have a blank canvas. She will make a great platform for you to fish or cruise.

By the way that is not a Tree but if Capt. Pat was still with us, he would get a laugh. There is only one other member that ever had a boat that was also a planter but his was a tree that was growing out of it.

You are in a very exclusive club having a Bertram 31 Planter.

My Kingdom for a Botanist!

Can anyone identify that plant?!

I've read a thread about Tim/Thud's planter but don't know the entire story...

I just love that old school hard top, it's hard to tell but looks like it is a 1 piece complete with the Pilasters port and starboard sides?

Will you keep it or are you planning other ways and means for your helm etc?

The hardtop is one piece. The pilasters are bolted down and have an approx 2' x 1" pipe on each side that guide them down into the Bahia sides. As far as I can tell, the front is held up by the windshield/side windows only. The actual top appears to be hollow.

I am definitely keeping the top. I had been looking for a factory hardtop Bahia, specifically.

If you are looking for some inspiration for your project you may consider looking at some pics of Reel Cowboy. If you can't find them in the forum, I have some the previous owner sent me.

one of these for sale on Boats.com now

https://au.boats.com/power-boats/1968-b ... r-9501900/

Wil,

Since you're in sunny California, consider placing a 100-150 w flexible solar panel on the roof.
You will always have plenty of battery juice, plus the security that goes along.

Yannis,

Yes, I will consider it all. I have read the info recently posted about the LiPO4 batteries, 12 v 24 volt systems, etc...

Yes, lithium and gel batteries are good but expensive...

After all these years I consider the cheap good ole' lead acid batteries to be the best option.
They last me 4-5 years hassle free, and then I replace them ANYWHERE (and this is also a consideration) with new ones for 4-5 hundred €€.
I choose the 100 amps ones and not the bigger ones, because they are easier to lift and remove; the big heavy ones are impossible to lift.
Good luck, and after what I see in the pics, you'll need plenty!

Welcome to the Bertram 31 owners club were we are all in the same boat...except for those of us who are not.

Well that boat doesn't look to have much wrong with it...not much to be wrong. Just needs a little wax n polish, maybe some motors, exhaust and a little upholstery work. Perhaps some...

Its a great platform to start from scratch, enjoy the journey! Best of luck moving forward and remember whatever you encounter in your build, I am fairly sure one of on this site has done something similar and more then happy to share our successes and mistakes with you.

Carl

Best of luck with your build if you do your research on this site you can find a lot of great information on here. I have met many great people during my build the Bertram community has some great members. It is a lot of work but well worth it in the end mine is 8 years and counting for me.

Jason, I have followed your build intently.

Have you had any issues with the way you did your motor mounts? i.e. the aluminum angle bolted to the stringers. Would you do anything different?

I have been planning on following your method.

What a tribute to the Bertram 31 hull design and construction. Any other hull this age and condition would be designated for remediation but I have never heard of a 31 hull being scrapped. Thank you for taking on this project.

Will I haven’t had any issues at all everything is working out great I have well over 200 hours on the boat now in many different conditions and no problems. If you need any thing specific like pictures I have thousands of pictures so don’t hesitate to reach out.

Amberjack wrote: ↑Jan 8th, '25, 14:41 What a tribute to the Bertram 31 hull design and construction. Any other hull this age and condition would be designated for remediation but I have never heard of a

I’ve seen plenty of older boats worked on to make usable, some fully restored to former glory and set in temperature controlled storage till that pristine day she comes out for a ride or trailered to a show.

The 31 is different, plenty remediated to usable, but how many restored, refurbished, customized to be used as fishing machines, run far offshore in unfavorable conditions, used as day boats, weekenders, live-boards traveling distances many new boats would not venture. Especially in a 31’…

I guess the same reason Ilike to go to boat shows. Sure I can find something I’d like more, but always so far out of what I’d be willing o spend. But in my range or twice that, I’d like my 31 more…especially now that almost all boats went outboard.

Nice project.

How much did you pay for it if you are willing to share? I dream of a 31 Bertram project.

I payed $5k for the hull. It came with a couple of transmissions, 1 3/8" shafts, outriggers, rudder ports, fuel tank but really nothing else. And I don't even plan on using most of the included parts. It was gutted, literally.

I've watched the internet for years and I've not seen anything less than $5k...but have seen some at $5-10k that included so much more.

I just didn't want to pay for stuff that I wasn't going to use...like gassers, stock rudders, old electronics, etc

But in reality, we all know that $5k is nothing compared to what's needed.

Thanks for sharing. I still dream about finding a similar condition 31 Bertram hull and notching the transom for outboards.

I guess it's my age and the fact I've restored and built planes, boats and automobiles as a living and just worn out doing so. I commend you on your adventure and when you are done will have a great boat to enjoy.

I remember when you could buy a running gas 31 for 5 to 10k.

Bruce wrote: ↑Feb 3rd, '25, 06:32
I remember when you could buy a running gas 31 for 5 to 10k.

!!!!!

I've been spending hours grinding away tabs from rotted bulkheads, gunwales, bottom gouges, etc...

THERE'S NO END IN SIGHT!!!

Plus, I'm debating getting into the forward compartment/v-berth area, too, or save it for later.

I'd like to get it done before it starts getting hot. Wearing the tyvek suit is okay when it's in the 50's and 60's but summer's coming...



Swim goggles didn't really work out so well...

But, I've been using the baby powder and long dishwashing gloves duct taped to the tyvek suit...it's been working pretty well.

I'm trying to figure out if I should grind, taper out and close the topside thru hulls now? I'd like to figure out the best place to put them and route the hoses. These include what I believe to be sink discharge hoses, bilge discharge, tank vents, etc.

I know that some like to put all the thru hulls down by the chine to make it aesthetically more pleasing and have less staining down the sides. And I've seen some move them all towards the rear/transom area...

Any thoughts?

My thought is that a through hull is a hole.
It always was.
So, the higher from sea level, the better.

There are nevertheless some parameters, such as the higher they are placed the more is battery consumption, or the less is the output, however, the stains on the hull is not a parameter. Is it desirable, of course, who wants to polish away in an upside down position the hull stains. But a decision parameter it aint.

Perhaps, with lower thru hulls by the chine the inner hose is looped up higher to prevent back washing. That doesn't prevent the hose from being knocked off the thru hull, though...

I spent another couple of hours this morning removing the main bulkhead to the inner cabin and the v-berth.

I've just one more bulkhead in front of the motors and the forward most bulkhead left... but still a lot of grinding to do. Moreover, I've still got to remove rotted wood from the gunwales and from above the v-berth...







It actually feels good after having ripped a lot of that old, rotten bulkheads and whatnot out!

Do you plan to ever sleep in the boat?
If yes, now is the time to position the new bulkhead aft of its original position, at least on one side.
This will be at the detriment of the settee or the head plus galley side, whichever you choose, or both.
I’ve done it in my 28 and it’s a whole new world!

Yannis wrote: ↑Mar 16th, '25, 22:45 Do you plan to ever sleep in the boat?
If yes, now is the time to position the new bulkhead aft of its original position, at least on one side.
This will be at the detriment of the settee or the head plus galley side, whichever you choose, or both.
I’ve done it in my 28 and it’s a whole new world!

Yes, thanks for reminding me. I will get a good measurement and plan on moving the front chain locker bulkhead forward a little and the rear cabinet wall and/or head wall by the foot of the v-berth back a little, too. I am 6' tall so we shall see...

Moving the anchor locker will most probably lead to very minor change.
The gain will come from the moving of the main bulkhead aft. I moved mine by 15cm and its a real comfortable difference.
You don’t necessarily have to do both sides.
If the bulkhead provides structural support to the topsides, then you may have to provide some sort of substitute like a metal or wooden pillar of some sort, it doesn’t look like it needs any support though.

You have accomplished a tremendous amount of work, Wil; keep those progress pictures coming. But don't forget to get some rest in between your deconstruction and construction shifts!

It's amazing the volume of fiberglass dust that can be made!

My current tools are Sawzall with a demolition blade, 4" angle grinder with 4" cut off blade, 7" grinder with 24 grit pads and 4" grinder with 24 grit flap disk... and a lot of elbow grease. And, baby powder, tyvek suits, long dishwashing gloves with duct tape, N95 mask or respirator, goggles...lots of water and Audible books.

The stars aligned and my wife took my daughter out of town today and my son spent the night at a friend's house. So, I got all afternoon and evening to grind away and plan on even more in the morning. After the fiberglass, there's still a lot of gelcoat, etc. I might find someone to blast off the bottom, though....

Oldcreek wrote: ↑Mar 22nd, '25, 23:04 The stars aligned and my wife took my daughter out of town today and my son spent the night at a friend's house. So, I got all afternoon and evening to grind away and plan on even more in the morning.

….yeah, sounds like a dream come true. You wild and crazy guy, while the cats away the mice will play.

…so true.

Wil,

I hadn't seen separate little strakes forward, like this.
And I haven't seen strakes not symmetrical to the keel line, either!

I think you’re seeing the stringers Yannis. The strakes are on the outside of the hull or I’m seeing the wrong picture.

Carl, stringers, not strakes, you’re right…
Oh well, so long as stupidity stops right there!!

Yannis wrote: ↑Mar 24th, '25, 02:32 Wil,

I hadn't seen separate little strakes forward, like this.
And I haven't seen strakes not symmetrical to the keel line, either!

These separate, smaller stringers were just behind the cabinetry on both sides... Galley cabinet on the port and the head cabinet on starboard. I don't know if they were put there to prevent any flex and, therefore, prevent the cabinetry from being damaged. It didn't look like the galley cabinet or main bulkhead was tied into the stringer; Same can be said about the head side.

They appear original to the boat. I haven't seen another Bahia Mar stringer setup, either...

I envy the emptiness of this bow.
The first thing I would do is a bed of... Olympic dimensions!!
After the bed, I would place the galley, head, etc where they fit.

PS: Do you plan an anchor/windlass combo ?
I do, and I hated that each time I pulled up the anchor all the water would drip into the bilge through the storage space under the bed.
So, I glassed a bottom shelf into the anchor locker (a quasi triangular surface) where the chain sits, and drilled a side hole on the hull for the water to drip directly outside...magic!

I do plan on an enclosed anchor locker with a shelf and drain hole such as you described.

Then, I plan the V-berth area, probably lengthened as per your recommendations.

And then the galley to port and head to starboard. I will try to plan for a lengthened storage locker below the v-berth, for fishing rods, that extends below the anchor locker and, also, extending behind the galley and head cabinets... Or, something like that. Doesn't seem to difficult if planned ahead of time. I'm not a huge fisherman but it seems now is the time to do something like it...

When you say enclosed anchor locker, do you mean completely sealed on the cabin side?

What you may find very useful is a glassed vertical surface of around 10cm height, across the bottom of the opening.
This will prohibit any chain or rope to slide back during serious wave conditions. It will also prohibit any water sipping through what is now a rotten bulkhead.
The remaining open part may be covered with a screwed-on piece of ply, with an opening, so that you can check the windlass and the electric connections thereof. It is also necessary for undoing any chain twists.
While you're at it, think of allowing a slight tip of the surface where the chain or rope will sit, towards the side with the draining hole.
As the new screw-on mini bulkhead is now elevated, you gain 2-3 extra centimeters on bed length!

PS: Go to the "Over-flowing Head Problem" of Jan 2016 thread, towards the end you'll see the vertical addition to the anchor locker and the side water drain with its SS guard.

Wil,

I like your adult goals. I’m at that point for sure. Good luck with the project, it will be sweet when you’re done, you’re really making progress.

In regard to your original pictures with the plant growing in it. That’s not too bad, I have a 76 flybridge hull that I bought a couple years ago that when I bought it vines had grown up and into the boat through the holes where the through-hulls had been. The deck was out, the bulkheads were out, and the entire boat was filled with the vines. It had set for quite a while.


Yannis,

Might want to add a hyphen “Over-flowing Head Problem” it will make your anchor locker pictures easier to find. Took me a bit but I eventually found your pictures, I’m up early working in the office and needed a diversion for a little bit lol. The finished product looks nice.

Thank you, Danny, I added the hyphen you suggested.

Yannis,

My plan is a Coosa bulkhead with access door, with a seal of some sort, for the chain locker, similar to what you did.

Daniel, thanks for the encouraging words. I don't feel that I'm moving quickly at all, though!

Also, any idea what this large, lower loop is for? Another point for tying in the anchor chain line? Or, a remnant from the manufacturing process? I want to seal up the chain locker. Yeah, I think it's right below the hatch...probably to lift and move the boat during manufacturing is my guess.

Wil,

The construction of the anchor bulkhead (material, thickness, fastening method) is a function of the volume AND weight of the chain/rope that you will carry.
From what I can understand from the pictures, the depth of the existing locker is too shallow to safely carry a lot of chain, due to the chain volume and the corresponding weight.
So, before you commit yourself to a construction decision, you may want to define chain length and chain thickness that lead to chain weight - there are tables that specify weight per meter per thickness - I think that for our boat length the correct thickness is 8mm or whatever this is in inches.
If you plan to just have a few meters of chain tied to a significant length of rope, consider that the chain will always be sitting on top of the rope which means that the access door opening may have to be smaller and placed higher than what we now see in the pics.