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Has anyone had luck replacing the original front window hardware with a gas assisted shock?

Dude, you're gettin fancy!

So I didn’t do AC or. Generator. We open the windows all the time and I run with them open fairly often. But there is certainly conditions they need to be closed.

My wife and kids have never been super comfortable opening them and getting them secure in the notches so that they stay in place. So I tend to have to stop the boat and go down to open and close them.

So the idea would be to add a handle to the bottom center, with gas assisted shocks so it’s simple for someone that doesn’t need a lesson. If it stopped halfway too that would be a bonus.

I'm not sure that I was trust a set of gas struts to hold the front windows open when the boat starts to pound. I have trouble with the standard brackets with notches.

Peter. Mine are lexan so it’s pretty light. Haven’t had a problem since we switched out the glass, which was heavy

I would propose something like “Alexa open the windows” instead. Not that much tested yet but could be promising !

Closed loop stepper motor driving a leadscrew. Servo motors for a few more bucks. Open, close or any position in between. Wire a rain sensor to close windows automatically should rain or spray come your way.

Our boat will be 49 years old in August. Those windows haven't been opened in 48 years. Always got spray through them and they always leaked. I sealed them shut with silicone.

Peter, I use my windows all the time too. Mine are heavy.
I would think gas shocks may be difficult to close; someone may have to go out on deck to push them closed.

I'd put this in the category of "I've go way more stuff to do than figure this out".

SteveM wrote: ↑Jul 7th, '24, 17:19
I would think gas shocks may be difficult to close; someone may have to go out on deck to push them closed.

They come in many different extension and compression forces from a few pounds to a couple hundred pounds.

SteveM wrote: ↑Jul 7th, '24, 17:19 Peter, I use my windows all the time too. Mine are heavy.
I would think gas shocks may be difficult to close; someone may have to go out on deck to push them closed.

I'd put this in the category of "I've go way more stuff to do than figure this out".

My list is pretty manageable at this point, it no longer requires an external hard drive. I actually have everything organized in my iPhone note pad. What I can do, what has to be farmed out etc and an order. My starboard window frame is bent and I’d like to add the nice bigger aft facing windows.

Squaring away all the windows and getting them “good as new” or better is the real key before I really start the cosmetics both interior and exterior.

I think I have to hire Carl as my gas assisted shock consultant he really seems to understand it a lot better than me.

I don’t think they’ll stay up when the boat is underway

Im following this and other discussions about windows and how they could stay open or hatches stay ajar while underway.
Here we don't leave port without securing windows and hatches shut tight. Doors too.
Different seas, different manners…

For what it’s worth I almost always run with the windows wide open in conditions that I don’t think I’m going to take water or a lot of spray over the bow. Again, lexan windows with the original hardware.

It’s to warm in the cabin not too during the summer. And while the original hardware holds well it requires holding the window open while loosening one side then swapping hands holding it open to loosen the other side. Lowering the window and tightening both up. Not an easy process if you are doing a few drifts and then running a mile or two.

My typical day requires running a few miles in open water, followed by 15-20 minutes in a no wake zone before another few mile run. If we are going out the inlet and it’s not insanely calm we will stop and close the windows.

This requires me to loosen the knobs just enough to open the window, another full turn and the knob falls off someone is looking for the washer. If that goes well. The wing nuts need to be folded up so the window can close that last inch and be secured shut.

It’s enough of a process that’s it’s just easier for me to stop the boat and go down there to do it.

With that over explanation it would be worth it to me to have electric actuators so I can simply open and close them from the bridge. Although the simplicity of gas assisted with a simple handle to lock shut is more my vibe.

I understand. I changed the black vinyl knobs with SS ones but their built-in screw was thicker, so I used a drill and widened the alley on the female part… I saved me this one more turn and you're looking for the washer part!

Here we don't have no wake zones and even in dead calm you still need to have the windows shut tight because there are a lot of unexpected ferry wakes, the gigantic ones, and if you're not too cautious you receive a free shower and a lot of broken bottles and stuff…

Peter, you've got me thinking about your solution. I found this on the WWW, https://activwall.com/products/gas-strut-windows/
The video lets you imagine our front windows in action. They note that everyone asks how you close it. They say from the outside, or they sell you a pull hook. Which sounds like a stick with a hook on the end that you would grab the centered handle and pull it in. Simple enough. There's also a number of videos on YouTube that will show you how to calculate the strength of the gas strut for the size and weight of window or hatch.

SteveM wrote: ↑Jul 11th, '24, 09:32 Peter, you've got me thinking about your solution. I found this on the WWW, https://activwall.com/products/gas-strut-windows/
The video lets you imagine our front windows in action. They note that everyone asks how you close it. They say from the outside, or they sell you a pull hook. Which sounds like a stick with a hook on the end that you would grab the centered handle and pull it in. Simple enough. There's also a number of videos on YouTube that will show you how to calculate the strength of the gas strut for the size and weight of window or hatch.

That is exactly what I envision. Have to start looking into those details to calculate length and weight. Boat outfitters has a large selection and as far as I understand a pretty good sales and service department. I am going to give them a call tomorrow.

I think if you are going gas assisted the need remains to use the hardware to lock in place. It’s a lot of surface area to be blowing and bouncing around in a boat.

Another option would be torsion springs mounted at top hinge. A pair in LH and RH wind, one leg goes to the stationary outer frame, the other leg to the opening window mounted to a fulcrum at the hinge. Similar to the counter balance springs on a trucks delivery lift gate.


Or maybe old school window jack screw


https://imgur.com/a/evuMBd4

12v actuators make more sense. this way they not only hold them open but also keep them shut

I agree everything should be closed up when underway but not everyone likes to sit in a closed up cabin. I think gas struts will end up failing quickly if you ran the boat with them open

peter , who did the frame ? Looks awesome

lobo wrote: ↑Jul 13th, '24, 14:03 peter , who did the frame ? Looks awesome

Those are the original frames, I’ve been cleaning them fairly often and they have started to look better over the years.

Raybo Marine NY wrote: ↑Jul 13th, '24, 11:09 12v actuators make more sense. this way they not only hold them open but also keep them shut

I agree everything should be closed up when underway but not everyone likes to sit in a closed up cabin. I think gas struts will end up failing quickly if you ran the boat with them open

I agree, if I can figure that out it would be ideal. They way they are now I don’t have problems running with them open. Given it’s a situation we aren’t going to soak the cabin. Even when they were glass I never had a problem of them slamming closed. Except for user error when they weren’t tightened down.

Pete a lot of boats have 12v vent windows, radar arches, even RVs. getting the parts wouldn’t be that bad and since the windows are already plastic even if you had to drill them wouldn’t be a big deal. Wires could be run behind the cabinets.
Getting them to function properly may be the issue, I’m not sure how the throw gets determined on them, maybe a screw adjustment or determined by just the Stroke.

A linear actuator for an rv application is probably the same cost as a single stainless steel hydraulic lift piston

RV Style

https://www.firgelliauto.com/pages/abou ... calculator


If not pushing and holding from center of frame it may be of benefit to utilize a pair per window to reduce chance of racking, n swinging in the wind as can happen with single unit mounted to one side.

Peter

Perhaps if you took a look at this system, you could figure out how to adapt it to the windows.


https://www.sailmagazine.com/gear/gear- ... 7030534I9F