bertram31.com

Hi all,

I will be moving soon and won't have easy access to the full wood shop which I currently have so I spent saturday starting to build the hatch frame for the cabin on my boat. I think I have the lower frame figured out fairly well as I will sandwich the Nida-core bulkeads with 3/4 Mahogany on the inside with a 1" lip all the way around then a strip of mahogany to cover the core of the Nida, then a front Face frame

port side of frame, pieces long at the time
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Kg2qBGb7t1D2qXtw7

I had to trim back the top cap to let the face frame sit flush with the bulkhead
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6ZSbpmoPyj96GmoUA

It will fit a door I built for the boat years ago
https://photos.app.goo.gl/6tNzckrY1JYTJGLX7

Where I ran into trouble and I am not good at multiple angles and planes is the front lip where it buts up against where the windshield used to mount. The windshield frame was V shaped and angled front to back as well as higher in the center than it is on the sides. I ended up cutting a square cutout to fit a piece of 5/4 mahogany but I am struggling to figure out how to finish it off and would like some advice.

In this image you can see the wood is flush in the center but high on the edges. The piece of wood in the front is bigger than I need and will be cut down after.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vgxQZkwmQSNQDkZq5

To keep water out, My thought process is the top hatch will be like a box lid and sit on top. There will be a piece of mahogany on top of the cabin with a 3/4" strip up high, another strip of mahogany will cover the insides
https://photos.app.goo.gl/EWP8BS8yfRDUoD4f6


My main issue is the front piece of mahogany and all the angles and it not matching up, Any suggestions on how to make it look good?

I got a lunch break today so I did some more looking and took a couple more pics to help think through this.

This would be what it looks like on the inside, only difference is that I would push the lip piece in flush to the inside making one flat section (I needed to push it back to allow the clamp to hold it in place.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bq9YFJw51uEFcNjJA

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cWbGsz1pct5jV9e58
Outside view, In the pic I drew lines and I am thinking of carving the front face back at an angle and then putting a radius on the side. With the lip pushed to the inside there would be more room for the top to sit on.

Top view
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5fNV3WERYqJnWoZz8

The pics show most everything shown with the wood having been run through the table saw and or jointer and are quite sharp, all edges would be routered to round them over. I also want the front piece to be thinner front to back to make the overall hatch large as possible and easy to get into.

thoughts? am I on the right track?

I am not a carpenter, nor do I play one on TV.

On my last boat the door was framed on the sides similar to what you have. A step down into the cabin would have been tough if the top hatch cover did not open. The design was similar to many boats with a step down to enter. The top can be one or two hinged panels with a front lip that extends down some to be used as the lock and gives a finished look. As the top hatch goes over covering the odd shapes and angles it’s an easier build,

I’m sure if you search out some express models you”ll find. I think I’ve seen on a 29’ , 28’ Cruiser SeaDevil, 23’ Penn Yann, lots of cuddly cabins…


Sorry, I’m not much on wood design n builds so not slit of help with your original design…



A cheap plastic one that kinda shows what I'm thinking. I've seen some really nice ones that could be showpieces on older boats.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/replacem ... ine-225-cc

Hi Carl,

I like the idea of that hatch top, I'm curious of the size for the cost that they have listed. If it works out I wouldn't mind the top being a material that can take the weather yet still have some bling with the wooden frame.

It looks to be a pretty straightforward build with a pair of piano hinges. Two panels and a front face piece that extends down to secure/lock doors in place.


Although not as EZ as a purchase n install.



Poly is durable, wood can be classy.



I was wrong, Sea-Devil did a similar idea but used a sliding pocket top plate.

http://highlifeyachts.com/photos/fullsi ... -pa-11.jpg

I had a Boston Whaler Revenge 26 with a beautiful two piece top hatch made of teak.
It had a piano hinge between the two pieces and one or two gas struts to keep the assembly open.
The interesting part was the top overlapping the supporting frame to keep the water away from the cabin.

I did some more work on the hatch frame last night

I got the inside piece somewhat scribed to the top cap and cut all the side frame pieces to size. I am going to leave the piece of wood which sits on top of the cabin long until after the side frames are installed. The side pieces are going to be a bit tricky to glue up, I am on the fence between using epoxy vs tightbond 3 wood glue. The joints will be long fiber to long fiber and tightbond is way easier to deal with as I have had epoxy based joints slip while being clamped up.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/392bHBhgF2iDymXq8

I cut the front piece of the hatch frame to match up to where the side frame would meet it. It sits pretty flush with the front on the very edge but is still proud for a ways. I am going to do some carving to transition and make the wood section follow the same plane as where the windshield used to mount. I don't like that the side pieces join up in one line and I might do a 1/2 lap joint on the side piece to weave them together a bit.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M25Ab4rM4GwkrkWT6