bertram31.com

Guys:

I have a teak deck on the 31, which I believe came from Bennett on Long Island?. It is clearly in three different pieces (port center and starboard) . I need to pull the center deck to remove and install a backing plate. Does anybody know how these are held down and if I can remove the center section independently?

Much appreciated,
Mark

Also have a teak deck. Here’s my email address, earleybird34@gmail. I’ll send you my cell number. It would be easier to explain over the phone how mine was made and installed. This pic is from last Thursday, praying this NE wind dies so we can go tuna fishing. EarleyBird

Two of those black stripes are seams which are screwed down to the stringers and then covered with Lifecaulk and sanded flush. So obviously they'll line up with the appropriate stringers. Probably the ones just on either side of the fuel tank.

You need to dig out the black caulk and disassemble. Probably have to remove the gunnel and transom panels too.

On my deck, there is a sacrificial board that sits basically on top of both inboard stringers. All three sections port, center, and starboard are screwed into those inboard stringers.Those two boards must be CAREFULLY removed, and are located approximately by the motor box inboard hinges. Side panels and trim must be removed. In addition there are teak trim pieces behind both motors and above the step between boxes where the grain runs athwart ship, pay good attention to those. That deck has been down since 2002, truly wouldn’t want to try and remove, above my pay grade. Most likely you’d be opening a BIG can of worms too! EarleyBird

Maybe a dumb question, but have you tried to see if you can add the backing plate without pulling the deck?

If you were contemplating nut and washer under...maybe go with a heavy tapped plate that can be slid into place. Use longer bolts to grab, lift and position. Or tack weld nuts to the backing plate, then slide it in.

Lifting a teak deck that you are not sure how it went in or can come that's reversible can create a bigger problem than the issue you are trying to fix.

Good suggestions Carl. If there is enough room to slide it in, do it. You could use some cord to go through two of the deck holes , stick them through the corresponding holes on the plate and tie them to a nut or nail (or each other) and use them both to slide it in and to lift it into place so you could catch the threaded holes with bolts.

Not even in a circus would they think of such tricks, with washers and threads passed through etc...too funny!

Thank you guys. With the fuel tank there it is very difficult to get a wrench on the nuts on the current backing plate. I think I will consider some of these tricks or consider a spacer that can allow the current base to be utilized? That would be viable but the plate would now stick up about 3/4 of an inch off the deck.

Cut the end of the wrench off, then weld an extension onto the body so you can reach nuts.

And use a Gearwrench ratcheting box end. If you use a thicker plate like Carl suggested and thread holes in the plate before you put under the deck you won't need any nuts and can do the wrenching from the top! Just put Locktite on the bolts!