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Glass Tech hatch sealing material
Posted: Jun 3rd, '07, 14:12
by In Memory of Vicroy
The cork-looking stuff on the underside of my Glass Tech hatches is shot and the hatches rattle. Other than trying to fool with Glass Tech (very unresponsive to say the least) anyone have ideas on what to glue on the backs to keep the rattle down? Its gotta be pretty thin to keep the hatches level with the deck.
UV
Posted: Jun 3rd, '07, 14:53
by Pete Fallon
UV,
I've seen all kinds of stuff used, the thin black rubber material( about the thickness of an old bike tire inner tube) seems to last the longest. I can't remember where I got the material, might even of used an inner tube. I've seen it applied with contact cement, stainless steel staples, copper tacks and even a thin coat of 5200. Lasts for 3 or 4 years, not much stands up to cleaning chemicals and the heat in the southern climates. When we were building boats the hatch tolarances were really important, I hate rattles when running, they all had good flush deck hinges and positive latching dogs.
Posted: Jun 3rd, '07, 15:40
by Terry Frank
UV,
Shoot me an email to remind me. I'm pretty sure that I've got some stuff that you can use. We use it for sweep gaskets on swing doors. Really durable stuff. How many feet do you need?
Terry
Posted: Jun 3rd, '07, 15:46
by In Memory of Vicroy
Thanks Pete. I found a roll of adhesive backed thin foam insulating material with a mylar face here in the shop that's about 2" wide that was probably intended for pipe insulation. I'll give it a try next week. Only a couple of the hatches rattle and only at dead idle when the 6BTAs are "loping" a little at about 625 RPM. I could probably get rid of most of the rattle by setting the idle up to about 700, but on the Tickfaw we have some no wake zones and even at 625 ole AJ does 5 kts with both in gear and over 3 single engine.
UV
Posted: Jun 4th, '07, 09:14
by JGomber
Try plumbing supply or automotive supply houses for sheet gasket meterial in the appropriate thickness. They might even have cork but the synthetics should be tougher. Cut the material to the size you want and pick your adhesive. Oh, yeah, up north we build rods with "cork tape" grips. That would be a good choice for this application and it already has the adhesive applied. Check any local shop that does a lot of custom rod building.
Posted: Jun 4th, '07, 09:27
by Charlie J
uv
check your pm
Posted: Jun 4th, '07, 09:32
by CaptPatrick
UV,
McMaster-Carr has 1/16"x2"x50' adhesive backed neoprene for $12 a roll... Part number 8694K64
Br,
Patrick
Posted: Jun 4th, '07, 11:06
by Rawleigh
UV: I've got a roll for you if you want it.
Posted: Jun 4th, '07, 15:18
by In Memory of Vicroy
Thanks guys, this sandbox is the best. Terry, I need about 50'.
UV
Posted: Jun 9th, '07, 21:55
by Harry Babb
About a year ago one of my customers brought an industrial ourdoor electrical enclosure to me for modification. I noticed that the door seal was something like I have never seen before.
It was a soft sort of foam strip that looked to me like it was applied from a tube, possible a caulking tube. You could see inconsistancy of the "Bead Thickness" and a definate start and stop point.
The material was grey in color, the surface was smooth to touch and a 1/4 inch tall bead would easily compress down to about 1/16 when the door was closed.
Earlier tonight I was in Home Depot buying some PVC electrical boxes with covers. I noticed that the covers were sealed with the same material.
Does anyone know the name of this sealing product or where it can be purchased????
I'm thinking that a good application may be to seal the cabin door in our 31's.
Harry Babb