bertram31.com

Hey Guys,

Going back in the water a week from Monday. I have been frantically trying to get a couple of things finished before then. Decided to check all the throttle & shifter cables today. Of course, the port Teleflex shifter cable is now feeling stiff. All the other cables are fine. Is there anything that can be done to lubricate the shifter cables?

What is the length and/or model to replace the Teleflex shifter cable? If I can get replacement cables, I think I’d like to just replace them at this point.

Thanks in advance!

JohnV8r

IMO if it is stiff it will need to be replaced. I have tried yrs ago to lubricate etc...it just wont last long. Others may have better way tho.

If you are going to replace then disconnect the cable on both ends and secure a rope or strong string to the cable and pull it out. Allow the string to play out in place of the cable. In other words as the cable is coming out the string will be getting pulled in. Once the cable is out you can bring to the marine supply and match it up or at least measure it and order a new one.
When you have the new one secure it to the string and pull the string to install the cable.

Hi John,
How’s it been going? Glad to see your using her,
Salmon?
Ditto what Frank said, I’d replace cable too.
But in a pinch, for my dirtbikes this tool has saved a ride before. Forces the “cable life” lube into housing, actually works. I know these cables are larger but it should fit them with adjustability.
Any bike shop has them.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/mot ... _id=173912

Just for checking, disconnect cable from trans lever and try movement again. I've had the selector arm/spool valve tighten up.

Also are you dual controls and if so do both cables go to engine or bridge control cables to lower controls and lower controls to engines?

I forced corrosion-x between the stainless cable and the sleeve by wrapping the "straw" from the corrosion-x nozzle to the annulus between the cable/sleeve with electrical tape. Sprayed it slowly in. Been working smoothly for at least 10 years. If you end up changing it out, cut both ends off and save the internal the stainless wire. Good stuff for future projects.

There is some good suggestions on here to try that I would not have thought of so give it a shot maybe

My port shifter was frozen. Couldn't budge.
Forced transmission fluid with a syringe between sleeve and cable while a second person was moving shifter.
Little by little it started moving till it loosened completely.
No issues after 2 years.

Sorry for the delay in response guys. I appreciate all the help.

Bruce,

I have one station on the flybridge. Morse controls with the shifters on the left and the throttles on the right.

It is the port side cable that is stiff. I removed the cable from the shifter on the transmission. Transmission selector arm is moving easily, so fortunately it's not the tranny. It is definitely the cable. I repositioned the cable and moved it back and forth several times. It's functional, but not buttery smooth like the starboard cable and the throttles.

My biggest concern trying to replace it before I splash is Teleflex cable availability. I called around a handful of places in Northern California and searched the internet. 17' and 18' Teleflex cables seem to be readily available. Other sizes are hard to come by right now. I don't want to pull the cable and find out I cannot find the correct length due to pandemic related shortages. The yard manager where I am told me there should be model numbers on the cable somewhere that indicate the length. However, I did not see any numbers on the part of the cable I could see easily. Ultimately, I'm going to replace the cable.

I did order the $10 cable luber Rocky suggested. I'll give that a shot and see if I can get some CorrosionX in the cable. Thanks for the suggestion Rocky!

I'm going to go ahead and launch next week as planned and take her to the marina where she'll be berthed. At this point, I'm confident it'll work until I can get a replacement cable.

What a journey...all bought to me by ethanol. Never thought it would take this long, but I took my time and did it right. Never could have done it without Capt Patrick and all the help from you guys. I'm eternally grateful.

Rawleigh,

Just watched that video. Going to take the compressor down to the boat on Thursday and give that a try.

Thanks for posting that link!

JohnV8r

You have got nothing to lose John. I might try it on my Morse cables as well as my original steering cable. I figure oil cannot hurt! The guy in the video was using synthetic oil which I don't agree with. It is fine in an engine or gearbox, but in my experience it is not worth a damn for lubing anything else. Actually universal tractor hydraulic oil is the longest lasting stuff I have found for use in an oil can. I sticks and is not easy to wash off.

Sure John,
Hope that works for you on cable. Of course the Rawleigh's way is more of a supercharged way of getting lube in there, why not? Let us know how that worked out!

Rawleigh wrote: ↑Jul 28th, '21, 14:06 The guy in the video was using synthetic oil which I don't agree with. It is fine in an engine or gearbox, but in my experience it is not worth a damn for lubing anything else. Actually universal tractor hydraulic oil is the longest lasting stuff I have found for use in an oil can. I sticks and is not easy to wash off.

Synthetic or fossil oil both lubricate the same to my knowledge. Synthetic is just all the “stuff” is exactly the same allowing it to last longer.
My understanding of hydraulic oil is it is the same as motor oil but without the goop that makes it flow better when cold, it also does not have detergent or the stuff that holds the crud in suspension till it gets to the filter.


I’ve lubed up my cables over the years and it has worked. The problem is if contaminates can make its way in the first time, it can make its way in again. It’s a hassle to change them…but worse worrying about it. Maybe lube and buy yourself time for now. That said…I have had one cable that is SHOT since I bought boat…but runs smooth so I left….that’s going on 26 years now.

Rawleigh's video was MONEY!!! Two old clamps, a compressor fitting I also had, and 12" of 3/8" hose allowed me to make this:



I slid the tube over the end of the shifter cable, tightened the clamp on the cable end, filled the tube about 2/3 of the way up with some ATF I had on the boat, set the compressor pressure on 30 psi and walked away. About 45 minutes later the compressor kicked on and I found this under the helm:



The left shifter cable is buttery smooth again. The biggest shock for me was this actually worked pushing the lubricant UP the cable from the tranny to the flybridge helm. This was so simple it was ridiculous.

Thanks again Rawleigh for posting the video! What a timesaver that turned out to be.

Sweet!

Glad it worked for you John! As UV used to say "The enemy of good is better!" I believe in KISS.

Carl wrote: ↑Aug 1st, '21, 12:22 Synthetic or fossil oil both lubricate the same to my knowledge. Synthetic is just all the “stuff” is exactly the same allowing it to last longer.
My understanding of hydraulic oil is it is the same as motor oil but without the goop that makes it flow better when cold, it also does not have detergent or the stuff that holds the crud in suspension till it gets to the filter.

I will have to disagree with you there Carl. I have tried using synthetic motor oil (Rotell T6)to coat the outside of equipment that was stored outside. It ran off like water. It did not even really coat the rust. Regular motor oil is better but UTF is some sticky stuff that clings well. Not as good as Vactra1 or chainsaw bar oil, but really good. I am sure synthetic would be fine to force up the cables as it is fairly thin though. I was just using it for something it was not designed for.

https://4into1.com/cable-life-cable-lubricant-6-25-oz/
While we are on the subject of what type to go into cables, cable life is formulated to live inside the housings. (Why I suggested Cablife).
But I suppose any good lubricant should work also.

For the record, the only reason why I chose ATF was because I had some on the boat. I'm sure there are better, longer lasting products for cable lubrication. That said, it worked great!

Rawleigh wrote: ↑Aug 3rd, '21, 15:03 I will have to disagree with you there Carl. I have tried using synthetic motor oil (Rotell T6)to coat the outside of equipment that was stored outside. It ran off like water. It did not even really coat the rust. Regular motor oil is better but UTF is some sticky stuff that clings well. Not as good as Vactra1 or chainsaw bar oil, but really good. I am sure synthetic would be fine to force up the cables as it is fairly thin though. I was just using it for something it was not designed for.

Rawleigh- I think you hit the nail on the head with your last statement "I was just using it for something it was not designed for." Motor oil is meant to be motor oil and not a rust preventative coating for outside equipment, nor cable lubricant. What is best...I do not know. My machines use several different kinds of lubricants from WayLube that is designed to stick and coat ways, yet allow the surfaces to slide freely. Spindle oils for free turning bearings and goes through an atomizer drop feeder before being sent into the spindles to hydraulic for the gearboxs to coolants that have rust protection. Tons of different lubes, oils, coatings for different purposes.

My point of synthetic was that fossil is built from crude oil which can have different compositions as it's more or less just decayed "stuff" transformed. Synthetic is uniform throughout in every batch as it is made from the start from known exact ingredients.