bertram31.com

removed the old rudder system with bronze rudder ports, packing gland, antiquated bearing. i seal the bottom of boat with Layed up epoxy,biaxle,then shot laser from ground to exact correct location for oversized rudders, install the TIDES MARINE TOWERs and new bearing on the top of new rudder box that goes stringer to stringer.the steering is unique to Phoenix with SS tie bar tapped with left and right hand 1/2" internal thread with roller bearing hind joints .a completely SS cylinder from HY-DRIVE with roller bearing joint . the rudder is supported 8" in tower like a strut bearing with a screw in collar with 0 -ring instead of packing together with 1 1/2" SS bearing on top of rudder box for maximum strength and zero play in steering. sea trial at WOT. lock to lock turn both to port and then to starboard at 36 (wot). steers like a ZO-6 corvette on the water 90 degree turns at WOT. total success.

BTW take note of the actual size of the fish box area ,this is maximum from stringer to stringer almost 6' and much larger then a 50' Viking all you have to do is run that exhaust to the outside but that's another story.

Nice job Bob! They have these seals on the 100ft hatteras that I run sometimes we just replaced the seals this year. It is a nice system.

as oppose to the OEM. packing gland with 1/4" of material supporting the rudder this tower as( tides marine ) calls it supports the rudder shaft for 8" and the top rudder bearing gives another 1 1/2" support equals a rudder shaft that is completely supported reducing rudder wobble to zero. a huge improvement together with oversized rudders.the rudder indicator used to fluctuate with old rudder system causing the autopilot to continuously correct the course and now the boat runs straight as a arrow by observing the wake.

Very nice. The OEM B31 shelf rudder does not originally go from stringer to stringer? Was that because of the exhaust original route???

Nice work as usual Bob

absolutely correct . Bertram weaken the rudder support system because the original exhaust was placed along side the rudder box.my new rudder box is stringer to stringer with 6 --1/2" stainless thru bolts on each side (three bolts thru each stringer). holding the rudder box between two points is 100% stronger.

Bob, Did you thru-bolt this new shelf into the stringers?

I can see what looks like a "double-nutted" bolt on the long side that mounts to the inboard stringer. Cant see the rest. Just wondering, it appears that is how it is mounted in place.
I only ask in case someone would like to copy your design.

Is it only bolted or is it in conjunction with some 5200 or epoxy resin also.


Frank

i took the photo just after dry fitting the rudder box. the next step was to drill hole thru the 1" W/P plywood iwnprenated with epoxy and Layed up on both sides with Biaxle then slip the new rudder box over the rudder tower and epoxy bottom and around the tower, next step i put the rudder box in place and slide the rudder shaft thru the box and bearing. next step bolt the bearing down in perfect alignment with rudder shaft, ok now we thru bolt the rudder box to each stringer with 1/2" ss bolts i did not use 5200 or epoxy between rudder box and stringer it would be really redundant and impossible in case running aground and bend a rudder.this boat is in a trust and money allocated so it will be in family for two more generations.everything i improve upon must last 50 years so i do my very best.

bob lico wrote: ↑Jun 8th, '21, 08:32 everything i improve upon must last 50 years so i do my very best.

IT WILL