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Rudder Post Leak

Posted: May 30th, '07, 21:58
by nic
Just about to haul to attend to minor refinements on the repower and I want to fix a leak at the rudder post. JC I borrowed your shot,

Image

We put a load of sealant on the underside of the hull and the external plate but after running for a while we get water in through the base, per the pic.

I'm thinking of putting a stainless plate over the top and through bolting to make a sandwich of sealant and a stronger securing point for the bolts, instead of just washers on the glassed in plywood pad we replaced.

Comments and suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Nic

Posted: May 30th, '07, 22:26
by CaptPatrick
Nic,

Anything you do in regards to adding to the exterior of the rudder port is just a bandaid... You need to fully remove the port(s) clean off the old bedding and re-install.

For best results, use 5200, (fast set is fine & will get you to step 2 faster), re-install the port(s), but only tighten the nuts down with finger pressure.

Wait until the 5200 sets up, (5-7 days for regular, 2 days for fast set), and then tighen the nuts and bolts with a wrench. This will squeeze the cured 5200 into a compression seal that should be good for many many years.

Br,

Patrick

Posted: May 31st, '07, 00:06
by nic
Thanks Capt.,

We did everything except the finger tight first, we went straight to max with Sikaflex 291.

We will certainly take it all off again & redo with 5200 Fast; when first back in the water there was no leak, only started to leak after 20 hours or so...which was about day 4!! I think there is movement there under way as the nuts bear down on washers on glassed ply, we've blown most of the paint off the rudders so it is a lot of pressure, there must be movement in a turn.

Keen to do what you say and then more, complete removal & re-assembly with a stainless plate on top with a hole to match the rudder post, then tightened on to a bed of 5200 can't hurt, can it?

I really want a shiny dry bilge.

Thanks

Nic

Posted: May 31st, '07, 08:38
by Rawleigh
You might want to keep it all bronze so you don't run into a galvanic corrosion issue. Also it is easier to work with. A quick soak in 50/50 muriatic acid/water bath will clean up your old parts - just don't overdo it.