bertram31.com

replacing the fuel tank and looking for recommendations on new fuel lines--this a gas boat. I tried the search function, but it came up empty.

The search function at the top of the Bulletin Board is not working as of late. Capt Pat is working on it. In the meantime, I've used the "Site Search" feauture on the left hand side menu with pretty good success. Unfortunately, I have not yet come to that point in my tank replacement yet, so I do not have the advice you are looking for. I will be keeping an eye on this thread though. Good luck.

Matt
1975 B28 FBC
Toms River, NJ

Craig,

Use marine grade fuel hose from a manufacturer that specifically states it is compatable with alcohol fuels & you'll be fine.

Br,

Patrick

should i have them custom made with fittings and has anybody have idea of cost?

Craig,

Inexpensive approach is with hose barb fittings & hose clamps...

Best is use Eaton Aeroquip Stainless Reusable Fittings. You can install these yourself and buy your hose as one continuous piece, cutting as necessary. The male fittings don't need a mandrel to install on the hose, but the female fittings do.

You should be able to find the fittings at a local hydraulic hose shop, maybe even the hose also...

Instructions for installing this type of fitting can be seen here: Assembly Instructions

If you can't can't get the fittings in stainless, nickle plated brass is your next best thing. Standard steel is most available, but if you that route, clean them well after everything is hooked up & epoxy paint them.

As far as cost goes, you just need to figure up a shopping list and then call around, but you've gone this far with the expense of the new tank, don't cheap out on lines and fittings...

Br,

Patrick

Craig,

I just finished going through this with my repower. I went with 1/2" diameter Shields brand A1 rated fuel hose. After much discussion with different people, I decided to go with push-on fittings. They worked very nicely. Easy to install. I purchased a 50 foot roll and this was just enought to complete the installation. I have diesels with return lines so you might be able to get away with less if you don't have the return lines.

I was sceptical about using these, but I know several people who have used them with no problems. In fact, my old fittings were of this type and I owned the boat for 8 years without any problems. You can add stainless clamps if you are worried about leakage, etc. I got all my brass push-on fittings from fittingsandadapters.com.

Vince

well craig if you allow me in a tyvek suit,white gloves,white socks,hat,and a germ mask,without a camera or tape measure let me see how raybo finish the interior cockpit windows.the last time i saw the falcon it was wrap up with two guard dogs and a armed guard.on my part you can use my account at moreland hose in bohemia.the falcon only choice is theaded fittings in brass custom fitted you can meet me at oakdale yacht in the after noon. my entire fuel sytem is "coast guard blue"all custom made including the generator.i have the isspro fuel pickup,custom fuel vaves on the tank pick ups (all independent) custom valves before and after the 900ma racors.a 500ma for the genset.rerouted vent and fill with a 231gal tank.the floor is not screwed down yet and i will be glad to show you even throw in some roll-off and lunch!

One comment on push/loc fittings.

Both the hose and the fittings have to be rated the push/loc to use without a clamp. If not they will eventualy leak.

Second using push loc fittings with non push/loc hose and a clamp is a bad idea also. The sharp edge on the barbs to grip the push/loc hose do not give a good enough surface area to clamp to.

Standard barbs work better with clamps.

The only type of clamps to use are ABA. Ideal clamps are horrible.

If you go with the tru push/loc hose, get the assembly lube to put the fittings together otherwise you'll be sorry.

Bob- that boat not in the water yet?


There is nothing to see on the inside, looks the same as the outside!

Bruce,

Thanks for the heads up!

raybo what i was looking for is the finesh contour.if i can compare the results with wood molding would it be 1/4round or more of a shoe molding shape? is there a "dividing line" or is it just one continuous piece with a angeled edge butted up to the glass?what do you mean same as the outside,is there a double bulkhead with the window sandwich between?
robbie when i cut out the windows and installed the edge 1/4 round molding on the outside i had to sand back 1/2" into the bulkhead now i have to paint emron for the first time ever.i really don`t how much to remove.can i just wet sand 400 grit and paint the bulkhead? there not to much area after the windows were cut out.
thanks in advance just can`t tow the boat there for such a small job.

the bulkhead glass is flush mounted from both sides, so what you see on the outside is the same as the inside, you could say it is sandwiched I suppose.
There are no lines



You can sand what you need to paint with 400, beyond that there is a blending technique that would need to be polished after the paint cures to be indetectable.

Im sure if you sacrifice one live chicken craig will let you see his windows during the next full moon

you dont have to be too-too carefull getting on as the cockpit looks like your boat did last I seen it.

well heck, he did not get upset with me the last time I posted this pic, so here goes nothing!

my god that is beyond words.that curve door with that close of a fit would take me 6 months of trial and error!!!! wow falcon has lost her virginity you should post a picture of the hand waxed bilge. seriously your work is the best both in design and finesh.the gel-cote actually sparkles better than new.
anyways, i see the finish product on the inside of the cockpit windows like i said i will see you this winter if you can fine the time.--------bob