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A couple of recent threads have touched on cockpit replacement decks, its an interesting enough topic for its own thread.

When I replaced Amberjack's cockpit in 2002 we looked at the Bertram Yachts replacement deck ($3,400 in those days plus crating & shipping) and decided to fabricate our own. My brother was a custom yacht builder and familiar with the boat so we collaborated on the layout and wound up with an excellent cockpit deck which maximized below deck storage and provided access to the shaft running gear as well as easy access to the lazarette. The whole center assembly can detach and lift out for access to the fuel tank components.

This is an image of the plan and one elevation. There are about 20 pages of detail and lots of photos of the work in progress.

The inflatable lives in the port side below deck compartment and the grill, grill fuel and spare lines, etc live in the starboard compartment so when we travel we travel with the cockpit clear of everything except the cooler. Post 1970 boats with the greater fuel tankage may not have as much space for the two side lockers as my older boat does. This cockpit design provides a lot more access below than the Bertram Yachts cockpit while still being secure against flooding or lifting. It also incorporates gutters that drain to the scuppers which is a big plus.

These are a couple of photos from file that show a glimpse of the cockpit. Next time on the boat I can take better pictures if anyone is thinking about cockpit replacements. Sorry about the dirt, its project time.

I have the same engine boxes as Raybo, mine were retrofits ordered from Bertram Yachts ($2,687 plus crating & shipping) but shipped from a third party. Maybe High Tide or GMaxx, can't remember it was 18 years ago. Fit was an issue with the side trim which had to be modified.

So, if anyone is thinking through a cockpit replacement and will be doing it themselves I can publish the drawings and photos of mine. As said above we've been very happy with it.

Doug ill be working on my decks this winter. one of my main issues is i had teak decks before, when i got the boat they were all rotted so we took them out. during the stringer replacement the heights are all over the place. I think he was trying to get the bottom of the engine hatches aligned with the hatch trim pieces which are shorter because of the old teak. I wouldn't mind seeing some of your drawings.

Doug

That looks pretty slick. Well thought out.

I really like how you gained a lot of easy access to everything.

Tony Meola wrote: ↑Dec 5th, '20, 23:09 Doug

I really like how you gained a lot of easy access to everything.

Thanks Tony Goal, heh-heh-heh

SABurke--Here is a dump of drawings plus some images of the replacement cockpit with 16 years on it. The plan and elevation with the detail key are in a previous post. And I do know how to spell inflatable, at least nowadays.

That’s some solid work there. Wow

Doug,

Thanks for starting this thread. I'm getting ready to finish out my cockpit floor. I have the old Bertram 3 panels which were refinished. While they look pretty nice as you noted they are just not very functional. I especially want to get rid of the side panels so I can store gaff's, harpoons and other lengthy fishing stuff.

If you get a chance please post some pics of the inside of your compartments and details of the gunnel stiffeners and gutter.

Thanks again that is a mighty fine boat.

this looks thoroughly thought-out. I too would like to see the hatches open, and maybe even when some are pulled for access.

Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. Obvious significant thought and effort went into the planning and execution, both.

I'll need a cockpit replacement eventually, but I'm thinking replicating this will be beyond my skillset, but never know until you make a mess of it, right?

Ironworker wrote: ↑Dec 8th, '20, 18:46 Doug,

I especially want to get rid of the side panels so I can store gaff's, harpoons and other lengthy fishing stuff.

If you get a chance please post some pics of the inside of your compartments and details of the gunnel stiffeners and gutter.

Thanks again that is a mighty fine boat.

Ironworker--The original drawings had a provision for hanging lockers under the gunwales but those were deleted from the final project. Can't remember why, possibly cost or maybe I just didn't like the idea. Anyway I've come to really like the wide open feeling of the cockpit without side lockers or panels. The hull is not faired, just finished with Awlgrip over the mat and looks great. The starboard has a boarding ladder for a man overboard safety device and a boathook clipped to the underside. The starboard side has a loop end boat hook my wife uses to reach cleats also clip mounted. They store pretty much out of sight, out of mind. The gunwales do not have stiffeners and don't need them. I walk along them periodically if I need to get to the stern quarter when the cockpit tonneau cover is on and they have no flex at least from my 180 lbs.

I took some images with hatches open and will get them posted later.

That is some fantastic work there...

It gets the mind thinking, but I think my space under on the sides would be too short for much of anything. My deck has to be several inches lower then most. Fenders would not fit...maybe rods and reels.
Its something to consider. Maybe just to open the side panels, lots of lost space for me there.

Carl wrote: ↑Dec 10th, '20, 16:22 That is some fantastic work there...

Fenders would not fit...maybe rods and reels.

Its something to consider. Maybe just to open the side panels, lots of lost space for me there.

Carl--I could see fishing rods mounted to a rack mounted vertically against the hull under the gunwales...if the space were long enough. It would get them out of the cabin

Images of the starboard storage hatch up. These lockers extend forward to the engine compartment bulkhead where you can just see a Magma grill stowed up under there. The grill comes out every night at anchor and restows after dinner. And aft to the lazarette where you can see a few crab pot floats plus pot lines. Also in this side are two 60' lock lines, two 30' dock lines and a 150' emergency tow line. The port locker which is identical holds an Avon Redcrest inflatable, pump, oars, solar shower, more line etc.

This is the center panel hinged up with the starboard shaft hatch folded over on top of it. I don't have a fuel gauge so I lift this panel up and use a dipstick. Only necessary before a long passage between fuel docks because I log mileage every day and fuel consumption is very stable. The coiled hose on top of the fuel tank can be used in an emergency to transfer from my 18 gallon galley range tank to the main fuel tank as a get home.

Missing from this set of images is a picture of just the shaft hatch up but you can see how it works from this picture. The shaft locker is where I keep the boat brush , bucket and hose. Also down there are struts for a cockpit sun awning. (Sun...a chimera in this part of the country).

Thanks Doug. I'd love to do something similar to what you have. How much does your brother charge for a similar cock floor?

Thanks for posting this! The decks on our new 61 are almost all soft and this is one of the first projects. I think it is well beyond my abilities, but I will be showing our local glass guy these pics.

Wow, nice storage space...nice access!

For me...not sure if there is as much possible space as my deck just hovers over the fuel tank. I's never fit that 1-1/2" fuel hose under. Maybe its a wake up call to raise mine. Although a place to store the emergency lines, dock lines, extra anchor would be nice. As I have a fiberglass deck from a later model now...I just keep these ideas around for when I am caught up with projects and board.

Tavis-

The basic deck on our older boats is dirt simple.

If you just want to go that route you will see about 4 vertical posts coming off the inner stringer, I think 1 x 3's and are oak. The top of those verticals has a piece of mahogany spanning the tops from stern to the bulkhead at front of fuel tank. This is mirrored on the other side of the tank. The cockpit has 3 panels, from stern to bulkhead. The center panel shares the mahogany strip with side panel. Front of panel is supported by bulkhead, rear rest on the ledge. Outer portions rest on an oak board screwed to the outer stringer.

To replace, unscrew the uprights and replace with wood or upgrade to fiberglass structural C Channel. Top piece I had mahogany so just replaced...but could have gone fiberglass box tube or angle. I bought a used fiberglass deck...but before I found I was just going to replace the old marine ply with fresh marine ply and wrap with Nautilex just like it came from factory. Hatches were simple cutouts and sat on 1 x 3 pieces of wood screwed to underside of cutouts.

Its not Amberjack s deck or a new molded fiberglass deck nor a composite deck...but its original style, inexpensive and a quick build. In years to come you can always come back to it and upgrade. If you do...the cost and time spent was minimal. If not...its a great deck and works perfect.

I spent more time and money shooting Git-Rot into my old dry rot hatches, supports, sistering supports to rotten wood, and later chasing the decks soft spots then it would have taken me to do it right. I know...I eventually pulled it and did it right. And till I replaced it was "Oh careful its soft over there"...then it was over there and...

Alternatives...

I did something very similar, but cored with plywood almost 20 years ago. They are not quiet as nice as yours though! I don't have pictures right now, but I will get them soon.

Ironworker wrote: ↑Dec 10th, '20, 20:42 I'd love to do something similar to what you have. How much does your brother charge for a similar cock floor?

.

Oh boy, this was 17 years ago and my brother and his partners have sold the company which is now Port Townsend Shipwrights Co-operative. PT is way the heck up on the Olympic Peninsula and is full of competent boat trades people. A three hour journey even from Seattle but worthwhile to check out if you're in the region and need work done. He is happily handcrafting his own house now and probably not interested. The Shipwrights Co-op would do an excellent job but unless you can get your boat up there I'd worry about dimensional variation in our 50 year old boats. I'd take the drawings to a good local builder if you can find one and if you decide to go ahead I'll see if I can find more photos of the work.

A humorous story about the project which included a repower from gas to diesel the year before. I greased the workers with the 125 gallons of fresh gas left in the tank so they treated me very well. There were a lot of pickups driving around Port Townsend that spring with blue dyed gas in their tanks.

How long would it take me to get from N. Palm Beach, Florida to Seattle? How much would they charge to take my 31 through the Panama Canal.

Doug,

It might be cheaper for me to just buy your boat? How much?

Ironworker wrote: ↑Dec 11th, '20, 16:26 How long would it take me to get from N. Palm Beach, Florida to Seattle? How much would they charge to take my 31 through the Panama Canal.

Doug,

It might be cheaper for me to just buy your boat? How much?

Hmmmm, maybe we should just work a trade. You can move up here during the winter to use my house and boat and I'll move to Palm Beach to live in your house and hang out around your swimming pool.

Carl wrote: ↑Dec 11th, '20, 10:31 Wow, nice storage space...nice access!

For me...not sure if there is as much possible space as my deck just hovers over the fuel tank. I's never fit that 1-1/2" fuel hose under. Maybe its a wake up call to raise mine. Although a place to store the emergency lines, dock lines, extra anchor would be nice. As I have a fiberglass deck from a later model now...I just keep these ideas around for when I am caught up with projects and board.

Tavis-

The basic deck on our older boats is dirt simple.

If you just want to go that route you will see about 4 vertical posts coming off the inner stringer, I think 1 x 3's and are oak. The top of those verticals has a piece of mahogany spanning the tops from stern to the bulkhead at front of fuel tank. This is mirrored on the other side of the tank. The cockpit has 3 panels, from stern to bulkhead. The center panel shares the mahogany strip with side panel. Front of panel is supported by bulkhead, rear rest on the ledge. Outer portions rest on an oak board screwed to the outer stringer.

To replace, unscrew the uprights and replace with wood or upgrade to fiberglass structural C Channel. Top piece I had mahogany so just replaced...but could have gone fiberglass box tube or angle. I bought a used fiberglass deck...but before I found I was just going to replace the old marine ply with fresh marine ply and wrap with Nautilex just like it came from factory. Hatches were simple cutouts and sat on 1 x 3 pieces of wood screwed to underside of cutouts.

Its not Amberjack s deck or a new molded fiberglass deck nor a composite deck...but its original style, inexpensive and a quick build. In years to come you can always come back to it and upgrade. If you do...the cost and time spent was minimal. If not...its a great deck and works perfect.

I spent more time and money shooting Git-Rot into my old dry rot hatches, supports, sistering supports to rotten wood, and later chasing the decks soft spots then it would have taken me to do it right. I know...I eventually pulled it and did it right. And till I replaced it was "Oh careful its soft over there"...then it was over there and...

Alternatives...

Carl,

While I have great ambitions for the long term, I really like your idea of a simple marine ply replacement, as we will be using our boat about 4 days a week the minute she is offloaded here in Key Largo. Thanks again... love the wisdom on this site!

Amberjack wrote: ↑Dec 12th, '20, 15:15 Hmmmm, maybe we should just work a trade. You can move up here during the winter to use my house and boat and I'll move to Palm Beach to live in your house and hang out around your swimming pool.

That might be a pretty good idea. I've got this 3 month plan for my retirement. We pick someplace and go live for 3 months. The pool is pretty cool in the winter. The water temp gets down to about 74 F. I did just install a new pool heater last week though so you'll be good.

You can bring your brother and he can work on my cockpit floor!!!!

Tavis

The original 3/4 inch marine ply deck is economical and sturdy. Mix epoxy with 10 denatured alcohol and give the wood a couple of coats. Then you can put Nautilex or one of the new synthetic teak deck coverings on her and you are off to the races cheap. Once coated with Epoxy you probably have a 20 year deck.

Good point Tony. Even if not planning to keep deck that long, a sealing coat of epoxy or even paint is a great way to extend in its life. Another nice thing about a wood deck...it's natures lightweight composite. Until my original deck became waterlogged, then later filled with Git-rot resin it was nice and light...clumsy to handle, but light.

Carl

Maybe I am getting old, but I don't call 3/4 ply light. Now my two side deck panels are balsa cored, they are light. The center panel wwas repaired and 3/4 ply was used once the bad balsa was removed. I curse it every time I pick it up.

You may have me there Tony.

I'm comparing working on the old wood ply deck 15-20 years ago on a weekend project of recovering them, to pulling them up, moving them around during last years motor project. A project done after hours when I was beat before I got started.

So...I'll retract the ply being lighter and offer a maybe, maybe not on that...ply still less expensive, easy, works and looks good.

Carl wrote: ↑Dec 14th, '20, 06:44 You may have me there Tony.

I'm comparing working on the old wood ply deck 15-20 years ago on a weekend project of recovering them, to pulling them up, moving them around during last years motor project. A project done after hours when I was beat before I got started.

So...I'll retract the ply being lighter and offer a maybe, maybe not on that...ply still less expensive, easy, works and looks good.

I bought some 3/4" Coosa for my filler pieces on my cockpit floor. It is certainly lighter than plywood and will not rot. At $235 for a 4 x 8' sheet its pretty pricey.

Ironworker wrote: ↑Dec 14th, '20, 16:18 I bought some 3/4" Coosa for my filler pieces on my cockpit floor. It is certainly lighter than plywood and will not rot. At $235 for a 4 x 8' sheet its pretty pricey.

If I can get away from the fuel dock for $235 I'm a happy guy. That's a good investment.

235 is a good price. Going back to 2008, I purchased a 4 x 10 foot piece to replace the bulkhead aft of the engines. I believe that one went close to $500 with shipping.

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