bertram31.com

I am looking for someone to remove the carpet on the sides of V-berth section and replace it with something which is easier to keep clean. There is a considerable amount of black mold in the upper rear corners, and after reading the warnings here, I am reluctant to try this myself.

Does anyone have experience with someone in Suffolk County, Long Island who does this type of work?

I removed carpet and faired and painted it. I had mold in there as well. Removing the railings and filling the holes helped.

Peter you could throw on one of those masks they make you wear when entering Lowe's or Home Depot and rip right into that moldy carpet? Hell if it stops the dreaded China virus there's no way a black mold could get past? (tongue in cheek)

MarkS wrote: ↑Oct 28th, '20, 14:23 Peter you could throw on one of those masks they make you wear when entering Lowe's or Home Depot and rip right into that moldy carpet? Hell if it stops the dreaded China virus there's no way a black mold could get past? (tongue in cheek)

I wasn't gonna say it, but since it was said already I'll agree.

Mold can be pretty hazardous to your health....but so can the bill from a mold remediator and the hazardous waste removal company.

The carpet in my boat was really bad when I got it, I don't remember taking the carpet itself out being that bad, the glue holding it on was not doing a great job, seem to remember that it came out pretty quickly. On the other hand getting rid of the carpet glue underneath is what I remember being nasty as there was quite a lot of it and it didn't sand with a grinder easily.

In my project I made my cabin smaller so I've removed a bunch of the glue to bond in the bulkheads and fair the cockpit area, the areas where I removed the glue, It took a fair amount to get it off and it stunk as the glue melted and balled up before coming off. I wore a 3m respirator while doing that work.

The remaining cabin sides still has the glue on it, I am seriously considering going over the glue with more glue and a newer material rather than sanding off the glue and fairing. In my view, why fight a battle I don't have to.

If you didn't mess with the underlying glue, I think a lot of ventilation and a $30 3m respirator mask should protect you in getting the carpet out.

Carpet comes off/out easily.
Definitely use respiratory protective gear though
The remaining glue on the hull is another matter.
We just knocked of the ridges with a very aggressive sanding disk, cleaned and coated with paint.
It's a hard pebbled surface now that cleans up easily and been mold free ever since.
Carpet probably had some sound deadening properties, but no thank you with the risk of mold and other nasties.
Good luck,
John

John,

Interesting idea of just painting over the glue, I'm wondering if something like a white truck rubber bed-liner paint might work and also provide some of the sound deadening properties?

I removed the carpet, scraped as much of the loose crumbling glue as I could, then used an orbital sander with 60 grit to smooth the underlying glue and expose as much bare glass as possible to provide a firm base for the new glue. There is an indent in the hull where the bow chine is molded in so I filled that with expanding foam insulation, then leveled it out with a hacksaw blade held against the hull with my fingers while I cut. A good dust mask did the job for me but I hardly had any mold.

A longtime marine upholsterer glued down 1/4" neoprene, then 1/4" of insulating material and then covered it with a leatherette material for the new hull liner. Its insulated and looks great, we love it!

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DCh ... xBw&adurl=
I took off part of the glue with those brushes

Amberjack wrote: ↑Oct 29th, '20, 14:26 A longtime marine upholsterer glued down 1/4" neoprene, then 1/4" of insulating material and then covered it with a leatherette material for the new hull liner. Its insulated and looks great, we love it!

What did you use at the forward end - the bulkhead separating the anchor locker - to cover the edge of the 1/2"+ of material?

i used a respirator and removed rug and than a 4" disc. grinder to remove glue . the next step was a alcohol based paint called BIN . definitely was not going to make the same stupid mistake of painting the cabin awl grip oyster white top coat a perfect gloss finish then sand the entire cabin and repaint with roller to give a difused flat finish after wife , daughter, called it disgusting. soooooo she pick out a Ostrich skin embossed leatherette with 1/4" foam backing.applied with 3M glue so any irregularities in any old glue underneath were covered perfectly. i made a new teak raised panel door to the anchor locker. the complimenting foam back neutral color leatherette on the ceiling finish the V-berth off along with light blue upholstered cushions. mounted a flat screen tv on port bulkhead wall with hospital style swing bracket.the bulkhead walls are teak over the ugly formica .

Bob,

Did you use a respirator with an external air supply or just the self-contained activated charcoal filter cartridges?

just the self contained outside filter from 3m.

3M # 60923?

Stephan wrote: ↑Oct 30th, '20, 09:42 What did you use at the forward end - the bulkhead separating the anchor locker - to cover the edge of the 1/2"+ of material?

Stephan--I used 1/2" x 5" teak to trim the forward bulkhead. It would have been a lot of work to remove the old covering and probably replace the bulkhead hatch so I just gave it a coat of fresh paint and trimmed the old carpet overlap with teak. Scribe a paper pattern then cut the teak with a band saw. If you can, mimic as much of the angle between the hull and the forward bulkhead (is there a correct term for that?) as you can. Detail here:



and overall view here



a view of the hull liner on the port side. Those well used paper charts are not used nearly as much now but I do still pull them out on occasion and they keep the USCG happy.



and for those interested a view of the starboard berth I kicked out just enough to accommodate two friendly people



it all fits like a glove but it works! We sleep very comfortably on board.

Doug

Nice job. Do you still have the old brown Formica or has that been replaced? If it is original it looks like it is in great shape.

Thank you very much for that detail - it looks great.
Stephan

Doug, whats that thing on the floor? The one with the little holes. Thanx.

Tony-that is the original brown Formica on the forward cabin bulkheads. I wisely decided to leave it alone when we painted the salon bulkheads and it turned out fine. That Formica was out of direct sunlight and is still in pretty good condition. Installing the teak and holly sole really brightened up the whole forward cabin.

Yanni-I'm surprised you didn't recognize it, that's my home Ouzo maker! I just fill it with water and plug it in when I leave the boat after a weekend depleting the liquor stores and when I get back the next week it will have generated 3-4 fresh bottles. I'm surprised you don't have one being Greek and all.

Ha-ha-ha, its a 60 watt cabin warmer I use during the winter to keep the cabin dry and slightly warm.

Doug,

Yeah, I have a similar contraption for ouzo production, only it's bigger, ha ha, that's why I didn't recognize yours!!

Another reason is that heating in a boat over here is as useful as a fridge is to an esquimo...but now that you mention it, 60w is a hell of a deal if it can heat the cabin, at least for those few cool September nights, right before returning home after the summer. 60w? are you sure?

Of course yours is bigger, but only the ouzo maker! Yes it is 60 watts but it is not really a cabin heater. It is marketed as a dehumidifier but is really just a static 60 watt heat element. It produces enough heat to keep the cabin air circulating and prevent condensation and in the process raises the cabin temperature perhaps 10 degrees F.

Sounds perfect for our kind of climate!

Yannis wrote: ↑Nov 2nd, '20, 01:16 Doug,

Yeah, I have a similar contraption for ouzo production, only it's bigger, ha ha, that's why I didn't recognize yours!!

Another reason is that heating in a boat over here is as useful as a fridge is to an esquimo...but now that you mention it, 60w is a hell of a deal if it can heat the cabin, at least for those few cool September nights, right before returning home after the summer. 60w? are you sure?

They are made by Davis and come as powerful as 130 watts which would work better for moderate cabin heating. I have the larger one in the salon. Those of us who reside up near 48 North latitude appreciate them.

Thanks, Doug,

I understand the bigger the better, however I have to run them on solar power, so, 60w / 12v = 5A X 5hours = 25A/h
I first have to see where and how I can find that juice, as I hate shore power cables etc.