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I my props are 18" and shaft is 1 3/8". Walter Machine lists two pullers which look applicable, one for up to 20" prop on a 1 1/2" shaft and one for up to 28" on a 2" shaft. Would there be any advantage for me to use the larger one?

I currently have the smaller size but managed to break one of the bolts on it. As luck would have it, the one that broke is the non-removable one.

The larger one may not be able to pull it. It may need more clearance than you have.

I've always used a gear puller, because I never liked the idea of wailing on the shaft with a 4 pound hammer. But to be honest, the prop pullers work better........

I'd go with # 2 or if ever planning on going 4 blade a 2N.

The #1 does works great unless you have a real stubborn wheel and have to crank on it...even then I have found myself having to heat the hub and give the puller a few taps to pop the wheel. My original egg beaters had a thin prop hub that expanded just a hair making removal a bare.


FYI- the non removable side to my knowledge is removeable...it does not come out easy, but it comes out. Replace with original or an alloy stud.

As Mike said...clearance on the larger pullers gets tighter in that area from back of prop to strut. Worst case scenario is you loosen or disconnect the coupling to move shaft down a bit, but the 2N fit on my ol 1-1/4" and thats a beast for our size boats...especially underwater.

Thanks. Clearance will not be a problem because the coupling is already off. Now I am trying to get the shaft off so that I can get a split coupling fitted.

The starboard shaft will be the more challenging one since the set screw on the coupling are rusted.

pschauss wrote: The starboard shaft will be the more challenging one since the set screw on the coupling are rusted.

Penetrating Oil like PB Blaster is your friend. Spray it up and let it sit. Do that several times over the course of a few days or weeks if you have the time.

Those square head set screws are big time lousy. The outside is nice and hard with soft center...they feel super strong right up to the time they twist apart.

I replace with Alloy cap screw and a nut to lock. Right wrong or indifferent they always come out.

I started the penetrating oil (PBBlaster, Kroil, CorrosionX) last November when I had her hauled. My plan is to drop the rudder, disconnect the coupling from the transmission, and slide the shaft aft. That way I will be able to reach the set screws through the access hatch over the stuffing box so that I can get better leverage on them.

Well then it should be as good as its gonna get...good luck!