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My mechanic is telling me that in a couple of seasons max, we'll have to pull the motors for paint.

It's true that there are areas that are a bit rusted, like on top between the diesel nozzles, around the turbo and elsewhere, but to me nothing so alarming so as to justify a pull, which, except for the pulling cost will probably entail some bedding care, engine supports TLC, realignment,etc.

Thinking of the cost, but mainly of the hassle I'll have to go through, do you think that any superficial rust justifies the burden?
The motors are 2007 and haven't been pulled since.
It's also true that despite my effort to clean this rust, most of it is in areas from difficult to impossible to reach, even with a toothbrush...
Also, the 28 has notoriously water leaking engine hatches, so even after the pull they'll quickly rust-up again.
Awaiting for the new... stainless steel model to come out !!

i was told by two different yanmar re-builders that the factory paint is crap and very thin. recommended me to paint each piece before reassembly with minimum 2 coats during my rebuilds

Yannis

Cummins paint jobs are not much better. Maybe some pics can help us determine how bad the rust is.

Will do Tony, next time I go down.

Saburke, indeed, I’ve also been told the same thing.

Yannis, mechanics say a lot of things. More to the point, has he said why the rust was an issue?

Doug, he did, but I’ll have to ask him again...
Im not sure I understood his point, although it seemed credible at the time.
I’ll come back with his justification and pics.

The paint is good, its just applied sparingly and in some cases in the tight areas, not at all.
Everytime a zinc is changed, a hatch leaks, a water pump leaks, etc the fresh/salt water unless washed off and dried will start to rust.
There is enough steel that the rust starts.

Its a maintenance item like every thing. On every new engine I sold and installed across many manufacturers, I always tried to talk the owner into scuffing the paint, another couple coats and then clear coat. The clear could be gloss to mat depending on customer desire.

Cat's in my opinion were the worst for rust in a wet environment.

Light rust is normal. Heavy caking or flaking rust is not.

CX

POR 15 has good engine paint. I don't know if it is available in Europe.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Engine-Enamel

Here are 8 pics showing the rust issue described above:


https://imgur.com/a/STvj6rI

Thanks Bruce.

Rawleigh, the paint we will find at some point, thanks for the info. The thing is whether I'll pull the motors to paint them in the first place!

Mike, Corrosion X doesn't exist here. I looked it up and it sells for around €30 per can in Amazon, plus postage. Are them guys crazy? I'll go buy some caviar instead.

Yannis, if you let the rust get away from you there won't be much left to paint in a few years. I re-do my small blocks about every 2 years: Dremel with a ss wirewheel for the spots that are easy to get to (not many of them), a small brass wire brush for the rest, wipe down with paint thinner followed by acetone, mask off anything you don't want paint on, then prime the rust with rustoleum rusty metal primer and finish with gloss black, using a 3/4 inch long bristle soft brush with the handle cut down to about 2 inches long. It is a royal PIA, requires you to twist yourself into positions that humans were not designed to assume, and takes a long time. I just did mine about a month ago; it took 2 weeks, and I am still sore, but the motors look like brand new, and at a glance I can see if anything is leaking. From your pictures it looks like you have a lot more room around your engines then with the V-8's, so if you are willing to put in the time I think you can keep the motors looking great without having to remove them.

Don't forget about aluminum foil for masking things like cables and other oddities you don't want painted. Wrap around hoses etc it's fast and effective. I just finished my annual which included paint touch up I do less painting every year since the hatches are sealed up and don't leak. Stay on top of the corrosion .....

Thanks Tooeez and Kevin,

I'll start doing just that. While seating on my deck in the early am hours before it gets too hot, I'll use my dremmel and wire brush and try to give those engines a new face.
I hope that by the end of the summer they will look better.

Be real careful with the aluminum foil around the starters and battery cables--I was reminded the hard way that aluminum conducts electricity really well!

Thank you, good point.
To me the problem will be to get rid of the rust in the hard to reach areas. The primer and paint seem a much easier task.

Yannis wrote:Thanks Bruce.

Rawleigh, the paint we will find at some point, thanks for the info. The thing is whether I'll pull the motors to paint them in the first place!

Mike, Corrosion X doesn't exist here. I looked it up and it sells for around €30 per can in Amazon, plus postage. Are them guys crazy? I'll go buy some caviar instead.

Yannis,
I know it sounds expensive, but if properly used it will save you money on costs like this in time, materials and labor.
I used to use a ton of it and its well worth the cost.

Yannis: Another good rust preventative is Fluid Film if that is easier for you to get. it is lanolin based and doesn't slowly evaporate like Corrosion X does. The down side is it leaves a greasy film, but it is what farmers spray on their fertilizer spreaders and other equipment to prevent rust after use.

Yannis wrote: Mike, Corrosion X doesn't exist here. I looked it up and it sells for around €30 per can in Amazon, plus postage. Are them guys crazy? I'll go buy some caviar instead.

If I mail you two cans as a gift, will you get whacked with some insane VAT or something?

Wow, much obliged.
No, I don't think so, if you send it uninsured and at low declared value, even if I pay VAT, it will be reasonable.
Thanks a lot!
PS What is exactly the purpose of CX? Is it a spray that PREVENTS rust, or is it a spray that dissolves the existing rust and makes it easier to scrape off?

Both. It will creep under existing rust so you can simply wipe it away, and will create a film that help to prevent future rust.

PM me a shipping address.

17 years on my 230s very little rust
more on my engine mounts, i use to wipe the engines
down with corrosion x after every oil change [ 100 hrs ]

Mike and Charlie, thank you.

That's not very mean, Mike.

Shhhhhhhhhh